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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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White Smoke

i just blown my engine and replaced it with a street ported 3mm apex seals replaced secondary injectors to 1600cc,upgraded both fuel rails and had a compression test on both rotor which were 113.Now the problem,i did the swamp which was easy but when i started the engine white smoke came out of the exhaust,big time.At first i thought and my friend told me it's my stock turbos whick i bought them used 1 year ago,but never smoked before i blew my engine.i asked around and they told me that white smoke is antifreeze.Please anyone that really knows what's up with this situation PLEASE enlighten me.i just bought a gt35r kit from someone on the forum and i really want to install it.so please post if u r sure about it.

Thanks alot
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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I can't understand what you are asking. Basic grammar and dividing your sentences into paragraphs would help a lot.

If you are asking why your car is smoking it can be only one of two things. Number one light gray smoke is caused by condensation. If it is thick white smoke that means that your motor is burning coolant, usually caused by failed coolant seals in the engine meaning that antifreeze actually enters the combustion chamber.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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if you just got the engine rebuilt and put in then it doubt it's the engine unless the person that built it messed it up.

if you're still running the stock twins then i would shoot for those going bad. the stock twins are water cooled so there could be your white smoke issue

i'd say put on the turbo kit you got and see if it was your twins if you're still running those.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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Sounds like coolant into the combustion chamber. But im no genius
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 12:51 AM
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was the engine freshly rebuild, or did you buy it second hand?
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 02:36 AM
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engine was rebuild and i bought it of a guy on this forum.also it has white thick smoke,not grey.so if antifreeze is leaking in the engine what should i do?
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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Does the smoke smell like caramel/sweet?
Also, are you losing coolant?
I would first check the coolant level. After a couple of times you ad some (if you have to, since you just reinstalled the engine), any air bubbles left in the system should be gone. At that point, if you are still losing it, it is coming out of the tail pipe.
If neither is happening, it isn't antifreeze.
When my car has been sitting for days, it'll smoke for a minute or two.
But there is absolutely no antifreeze smell or loss. It is just condensation.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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i am not losing coolant.the motor was sitting for a week before i put it in and because i left it out side it rained also.when i put the engine in, it started right away,but i shut it off after 5 min because of the smoke.do u think i should let the engine run for longer?would that help?
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 06:20 PM
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what caused your old engine to blow? was it coolant seals? did it smoke white on first start up? how long have u ran it since install? if your old enging blew coolant seals bad, it's possible that your exhaust has coolant still in it, then when u installed new engine & first start up the exhaust heats up burning coolant from old engine? i say run it for abit & monitor the coolant level.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by reh4b
i am not losing coolant.the motor was sitting for a week before i put it in and because i left it out side it rained also.when i put the engine in, it started right away,but i shut it off after 5 min because of the smoke.do u think i should let the engine run for longer?would that help?
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing! IRP isnt to far away.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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It will often take longer than 5 mins for all the smoke to clear up. It shouldnt still be billowing smoke out of the exhaust, but it isnt common for the car to smoke for 10-15 mins after an engine install. Let it run longer and just monitor all your fluids and temps.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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In any case, white smoke and a sweet smell from the exhaust usually indicates coolant is being burned in the system. It could be from a leak in the turbos or a actual leak in the engine housing. If there's coolant entering the engine, you could be having idling problems, too.
If you have a Mity-vac hand pump, you can check the coolant system integrity by pressurizing it up using the FSM specifications. Monitor for any pressure drops and leakages.
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 03:02 AM
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i did have idling problems but i adjusted it and it worked fine,but with smoke.i'll try running it longer hopefully it clears up.the previous motor blew both rotors so maybe that's the problem.i will post my update soon telling u guys if it cleared up.i just wanna thank everyone who tried to help me.also irp?where is that located?
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 03:36 AM
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what exhaust are you running?

If it is a freshly rebuilt motor by a reputable builder, I don't think it would have a issue with the coolant seals.

That one guy is right, coolant could still be in your exhaust and is just being burnt up. I had a coolant hose leaking onto my manifold and it is wrapped. So when I fixed the leak and started it up the engine bay was pouring out white smoke like it did when the leak first happened. After letting it run for about 20 minutes and keeping an eye on my gauges and water temp the smoke was very minimal. Then after running it around town for about 10 minutes all the coolant that coated the manifold was burnt off. So I suggest letting it run for longer.

If that doesn't work, try purchasing a cheap set of used but non problematic twins off the forum and see if that clears it up.

If that doesn't do it then take it to a shop and see if they can determine the problem.

If they can't figure anything out, drive it until it blows.
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by reh4b
i did have idling problems but i adjusted it and it worked fine,but with smoke.i'll try running it longer hopefully it clears up.the previous motor blew both rotors so maybe that's the problem.i will post my update soon telling u guys if it cleared up.i just wanna thank everyone who tried to help me.also irp?where is that located?
PM goodfellafd3s or rotaryexperimentseven on the forums, as they are the owners of IRP.
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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Good luck with it, I know that motor was good when it left my house, I wish you could have driven it while it was in my car. Letting it sit in the cold Rain for a week without covering the intake and exhaust ports could not have helped the seals on that motor.

Sounds like turbos leaking coolant or coolant left over in the exhaust from your last motor, worst case is one of the coolant seals went in the motor.

Good luck with it, keep me updated.

The first thing I would do is disconnect the exhaust from the downpipe and start it, see what color smoke, it any, is coming out of the downpipe. If no smoke is coming out of there, than its leftover coolant in your exhaust. if your getting white smoke from the downpipe, than its the turbo seals or a coolant seal somwhere else.
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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i'm not sure if this is true in all cases, and correct me if i'm wrong, but if a coolant seal is bad, can't you remove the uim and find the remains of a little bit of collant near the uil/lim gasket and upper portions of the lim?
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 05:52 PM
  #18  
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i ran the engine for 20 min and it still was smoking alot.the smoke was alittle bluesh and smelled like something was burning.about 10 min in i saw smoke coming out of the engine,turbo side.i was looking at the temputer gauge and it got hotter so i shut it off.i opened the cap and i added antifreeze and by the looks of it,it was empty.so i filled it up and ran it again ,but this time i left the cap open,i almost got burned cause it squirted .lol not really funny just stupid of me.i revved the engine and the blow off valve worked as if the turbos were spooling,but couldn't tell cause the idiot who installed my motor didn't connect the boost gauge.i'm gonna install the turbo kit i bought and i guess we'll c.
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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I would not install that kit. Figure out if it is the coolant seal before you do the single install and have to pull it all back apart
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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reh4b - where are you located? I went through an install myself a little while ago, and I'm no expert but i've come a long way so far, if you aren't too far i might be able to come by.
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 08:19 PM
  #21  
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brother i appriciate it but i think u live 2 hours away.
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 10:03 PM
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Well if the exhaust isnt humid or smell sweet then you are burning oil, or extra fuel. Your low radiator screams coolant bypass though.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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I recommend pressure testing your coolant system for integrity. Factory is about 13-16 psi.

+1 for djseven. It's a lot of work if you install the kit only to tear everything down again.

You probably already know this, but as general practice don't pour cold coolant into a hot engine immediately. Rapid thermal contraction can have bad consequences.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:34 AM
  #24  
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i give up!!! i'm taking it to a shop immedeatly,so i'll let u guys know what's up.thanks again
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