whats a reliable setup?
12-16-09, 09:00 PM
#1
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whats a reliable setup?
Hi guys im thinking about getting some new goodies for my 94 fd but dont know what to get. what im looking for is a strong reliable setup that i can drive atleast 15 miles a day for 3 days of the week. i was thinking of a Power FC but i dont know any good tuner around my area (Seattle). My mods on my car are intake, exhaust, Fluidyne Radiator,downpipe and all your basic reliability mods for FD's it has 85000 miles but boosts and runs perfectly. Please if you can give me a mod list that i should consider thanks Sam
12-16-09, 09:49 PM
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umm im just running stock boost. i just installed a new fuel filter and im waiting on a deal on a Walbro fuel pump. You wouldn't go with a power fc next?
12-16-09, 10:10 PM
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if you want it to be reliable then I wouldn't touch it. As silly as that sounds. Unless you're going single turbo, the more your add/change the less reliable the FD will become.
Stock boost doesn't need an upgraded Fuel Pump. Stock Boost and Stock Twins don't need a PFC.
Reliability mods and STOP if you intend to DD this thing.
my .02$
Stock boost doesn't need an upgraded Fuel Pump. Stock Boost and Stock Twins don't need a PFC.
Reliability mods and STOP if you intend to DD this thing.
my .02$
12-16-09, 11:27 PM
#6
I disagree. An aftermarket SMIC + fan and AI would be ideal. You will never get lower air intake temps in stop and go traffic without at least a fan on an aftermarket IC. If you don't drive around in traffic ever your setup is probably fine but I would at least spring for AI for peace of mind. Also get a tune after. That should make your car straight. SS clutch and brake lines would also be a good idea though.
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12-17-09, 12:29 AM
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I would go with a Power FC fuel pump just to be safe and then a SMIC. As far as tuning we usually have a tuner up in seattle a couple times in the summer. Either steve kan or BDK and they are both good so you can get it tuned then.
12-17-09, 12:48 AM
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ok i have another question. today i went to my local shop to pick up some new lights and they said that stock FDs run too rich which is going to burn my apex seals and they said i need a pfc and tune bad. Now is this just bs to make me spend some $ because from what i heard its the opposite its better to have your car running a little rich. giving me some feed back guys
12-17-09, 12:50 AM
#11
power FC as most have said, it is the simplest reliability mod you can do for a stock to moderately modded FD.
you can set coolant fan turnon temps
you can adjust fuel to a richer mixture to avoid older car issue with the fuel system
you should be able to find someone who can flash the ECU for you with the mods you have and settings to suit the car. i can as many can tune a PFC that is lightly modded, only heavier mods on singles and upgraded fuel systems need actual tuning. of course tuning the car in person is better but unless there is an issue with the fuel system than it doesn't need to be touched up much.
you can set coolant fan turnon temps
you can adjust fuel to a richer mixture to avoid older car issue with the fuel system
you should be able to find someone who can flash the ECU for you with the mods you have and settings to suit the car. i can as many can tune a PFC that is lightly modded, only heavier mods on singles and upgraded fuel systems need actual tuning. of course tuning the car in person is better but unless there is an issue with the fuel system than it doesn't need to be touched up much.
12-17-09, 01:13 AM
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Turd Ferguson
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He's not boosting over stock limits, already has the standard reliability mods, knows of no tuner in his area, and wants to drive it 15 miles 3 days a week. None of this tells me that he needs any of the suggested upgrades: PFC, fuel pump upgrade, or AI (?!?).
This is seriously an overkill for this car and will probably only cause him more problems. I strongly encourage everyone to keep in mind car's user requirements, the owner's limited knowledge of the FD (no offense ) and zero scheduled tolerance for the car being out of driving condition should something go badly in any of these "upgrades".
To the OP:
Focus on upkeep if you want to drive a FD weekly and don't beat on it. If you want to tweak this car you need to spend a great deal more time reading the manuals, browsing the forums and realistically planning for repairs - oh and purchasing another Daily Driver.
Save your money and read, read, read. (in my reverend voice) "you are heading down the wrong path" if you start slapping this stuff on. And in 1 year, you'll be selling your car and have less money in your pockets with little to show. Mark my words.
This is seriously an overkill for this car and will probably only cause him more problems. I strongly encourage everyone to keep in mind car's user requirements, the owner's limited knowledge of the FD (no offense ) and zero scheduled tolerance for the car being out of driving condition should something go badly in any of these "upgrades".
To the OP:
Focus on upkeep if you want to drive a FD weekly and don't beat on it. If you want to tweak this car you need to spend a great deal more time reading the manuals, browsing the forums and realistically planning for repairs - oh and purchasing another Daily Driver.
Save your money and read, read, read. (in my reverend voice) "you are heading down the wrong path" if you start slapping this stuff on. And in 1 year, you'll be selling your car and have less money in your pockets with little to show. Mark my words.
12-17-09, 01:49 AM
#13
^ however, and I don't understand why no one mentioned this sooner, but the op said he has aftermarket intake AND exhaust... idk about you, but I would be paranoid as **** to drive the car... does he have a boost gauge? always reading 10 psi and no more? no boost creep? no boost spikes? .. wow, im surprised.
2 best mods I see here so far were the fuel pump mods above, a pfc and I would clean injectors too... the op lives in some fairly cool/climate, but maybe he don't drive/boost that hard?
I'm running stock boost too, but I also have sock intake/intercooler/cat with a ported wastegate to help control boost creeping/spiking.... doesn't take much to hit 12 psi and POP.
I posted a similar thread on the Rotary Car Club forum...
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=9227
2 best mods I see here so far were the fuel pump mods above, a pfc and I would clean injectors too... the op lives in some fairly cool/climate, but maybe he don't drive/boost that hard?
I'm running stock boost too, but I also have sock intake/intercooler/cat with a ported wastegate to help control boost creeping/spiking.... doesn't take much to hit 12 psi and POP.
I posted a similar thread on the Rotary Car Club forum...
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=9227
12-17-09, 03:41 AM
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Turd Ferguson
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True but an 85k engine isn't gonna last forever. He needs to be thinking conservative here. Gauges are fine.
If you find a good deal on a PFC, then ok. But don't just run into this ***** nilly.
If you find a good deal on a PFC, then ok. But don't just run into this ***** nilly.
12-17-09, 09:36 AM
#17
He's not boosting over stock limits, already has the standard reliability mods, knows of no tuner in his area, and wants to drive it 15 miles 3 days a week. None of this tells me that he needs any of the suggested upgrades: PFC, fuel pump upgrade, or AI (?!?).
This is seriously an overkill for this car and will probably only cause him more problems. I strongly encourage everyone to keep in mind car's user requirements, the owner's limited knowledge of the FD (no offense ) and zero scheduled tolerance for the car being out of driving condition should something go badly in any of these "upgrades".
This is seriously an overkill for this car and will probably only cause him more problems. I strongly encourage everyone to keep in mind car's user requirements, the owner's limited knowledge of the FD (no offense ) and zero scheduled tolerance for the car being out of driving condition should something go badly in any of these "upgrades".
I agree with the fuel pump and AI. Not necesarry but it will help alot. When I had my FD, I drove in traffic once in a while and trust me, AI would have helped alot. My intake temps were up to 99 celsius. Its a scary thing. I had to becareful to stay of boost and cruise until my engine cooled down. When you are in that situation, you want as much help as you can get. Trust me OP, I'm shooting for your exact goals. I want a bulletproof FD. Some things you don't need and can be dealt with but I would rather have extrra insurance. Don't get lazy.
12-17-09, 09:43 AM
#18
If you want reliable: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=15
12-17-09, 09:51 AM
#19
If you want reliable: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=15
+1
grimple and dgeesman has good feedback as well.
Reliable is a measure of maintenance (and there is lots of it on a 15+ year old car) and a safe set of mods (run a cat to help control boost and eliminate boost spike and creep).
You don't even need a PFC if you plan on running stock boost levels.
I drove my car for the better part of the last 5 years w/o a second car and w/o breaking down or unexpectedly breaking anything (other than an old coolant hose that I neglected to change). I did do lots of preventative maintenance over that time period as well.
12-17-09, 09:54 AM
#20
I'm with grimple1. Keep it simple.
*A conservative upgraded SMIC...Greddy, Blitz, PFS. Make sure it comes with a good duct.
*Cooling reliability mods...Series 5 FC thermoswitch, metal AST, ALL coolant hoses. Including turbo coolant lines. At 85k they need it...trust me.
*Change out ALL fluids....transmission, diff, brake and coolant. If you don't drive it in the winter, keep as much distilled water as you can get away with safely.
*Fast re-acting IAT.
*A re-flashed ECU for intake and exhaust (Pettit et al) is simpler and just as effective. It also won't require a professional tuner. PFC is great but overkill for mild mods and stock boost IMO. And you'll spend another $400 or so plus the cost of a tune.
*Boost and Temp gauge if you don't already have one. Put the temp gauge sender in the TB coolant line. Search for DaleClark's thread.
*Boost controller. Manual works fine but a little more work to set.
*Wrap your DP or, if your ambitous, remove it an have it heat coated.
*Fan Mod.
*Fuel filter change
*A conservative upgraded SMIC...Greddy, Blitz, PFS. Make sure it comes with a good duct.
*Cooling reliability mods...Series 5 FC thermoswitch, metal AST, ALL coolant hoses. Including turbo coolant lines. At 85k they need it...trust me.
*Change out ALL fluids....transmission, diff, brake and coolant. If you don't drive it in the winter, keep as much distilled water as you can get away with safely.
*Fast re-acting IAT.
*A re-flashed ECU for intake and exhaust (Pettit et al) is simpler and just as effective. It also won't require a professional tuner. PFC is great but overkill for mild mods and stock boost IMO. And you'll spend another $400 or so plus the cost of a tune.
*Boost and Temp gauge if you don't already have one. Put the temp gauge sender in the TB coolant line. Search for DaleClark's thread.
*Boost controller. Manual works fine but a little more work to set.
*Wrap your DP or, if your ambitous, remove it an have it heat coated.
*Fan Mod.
*Fuel filter change
12-17-09, 09:59 AM
#21
12-17-09, 10:12 AM
#22
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Not sure if you stated it already but if you don't have dual oil coolers you might want to add that. It helps take some stress off the water coolant system and as many will tell you heat and detonation are the big killers on this car.
I agree with the AI even on a stock system. It will help keep it cooler and cleaner even with just water and not tuning for power. A simple AI system will run you about $300 and provides a measure of safety when/if you decide to keep going with the car with mods.
Do not forget the basics. In addition to what has already been mentioned about replacing all your rubber/rusty/old stuff like fluids, hoses, belts, etc check your electrical system and ensure you have good grounds. there are many threads on the benefits of this.
Ducting for your rad/IC and ensuring you have proper air flow through the engine bay also helps with cooling.
I agree that if you're not going much further with the mods you probably don't need a Power FC. That said, if your car is running well right now, and you plan on doing mods in the future, its probably a good idea to go ahead and get one.
Replace all your boost leak prone rubber hoses and couplers with aluminum ones, clamps and couplers. Get an efini y-pipe also. Upgrade your SMIC to a greddy/RE-amemiya/Blitz.
One thing you probably don't want to do is mess with the exhaust too much, read up on boost creep.
I agree with the AI even on a stock system. It will help keep it cooler and cleaner even with just water and not tuning for power. A simple AI system will run you about $300 and provides a measure of safety when/if you decide to keep going with the car with mods.
Do not forget the basics. In addition to what has already been mentioned about replacing all your rubber/rusty/old stuff like fluids, hoses, belts, etc check your electrical system and ensure you have good grounds. there are many threads on the benefits of this.
Ducting for your rad/IC and ensuring you have proper air flow through the engine bay also helps with cooling.
I agree that if you're not going much further with the mods you probably don't need a Power FC. That said, if your car is running well right now, and you plan on doing mods in the future, its probably a good idea to go ahead and get one.
Replace all your boost leak prone rubber hoses and couplers with aluminum ones, clamps and couplers. Get an efini y-pipe also. Upgrade your SMIC to a greddy/RE-amemiya/Blitz.
One thing you probably don't want to do is mess with the exhaust too much, read up on boost creep.
12-17-09, 10:41 AM
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I'm no tuning expert but from what I understand upgrading the SMIC, intakes, removing the pre-cat (for those that have them), and adding a cat back type exhaust (keeping your main cat) can be safely done on a stock CPU.