If you want to do a good engine transplant, put a 20B in a z06. You will notice PFS's built 20B rx7 raped all the built twin turbo Z06's and other cars in C & D's shoot out around the roadcourse. Actually rape is putting it mildly, it easily destroyed all the other cars around the road course and track.

Later.

 

too bad the 20b weighs like 150lbs more than the LS1 swap,,, find the weight on that monster, it isnt pretty. plus the cost of that swap is a joke, and i dont care how you look at it,,, its still a rotary, its a drivable timebomb...

 

Guys, keep the name calling down. This thread is real close to being closed.

Here are my 2 cents worth:

I don't want either in my car (single turbo or piston engine or some sort). I like the car the way it was designed (rotary engine + twin turbos). I would love to upgrade the twins to M2's, but at the moment, I don't have the cash for that.

As for people swapping piston engines into RX-7's? Well, they bought the car with their money, they can do what they like.

However, is it still an RX-7 after a piston swap? Not by the definition of RX-7 (Rotary eXperiemental). IMO, a car is more than just what's under the hood, however, RX-7 is defined by the rotary engine.

 

In before the lock. hehe

 

I still prefer to think of my car as an RX-7 (Reciprocating eXperiemental).

 

A corvette is still heavier and very common. Not much "Uniqueness" to owning one.


Maybe this can become your mantra. Sort of like Zero's "the 7 can't lose".

 

You are seriously ignorant.

HP = torque * rpm / 5250

If I shift of course I will have less horsepower in next gear.

I don't think you understand bro. The stuff you're talking about Hondas I've already done, experienced, played a part in, and MOVED ON a long time ago. Luckily before it got heavily commercialized like it is now.

Now as far as all of your "my del sol this, my del sol that" I already mentioned Laguna Seca and Thunderhill - both 2 stable norcal tracks. Bring both of your cars, I'll bring a hotlap timer. You pay your own entry fees.

 

Once again, you are confusing the rotary engine with the 13B-REW + SEQ twins + obfsucated large turbo exhaust manifold slapped right onto the engine.

HEAT is what kills a rotary engine when using a turbo. A rotary engine itself is very reliable.

There are more than a few GT cars with 20B NA engines *detuned* (as in not full potential) to 500 ps.

It's quite obvious you inordinately despise the rotary engine design and that it's more a personal issue of yours rather than reality.

 

Oh and another thing about the "flat" torque curve both of you guys so much adore. As alluded to in the post by Conv.WS6, you're not even going to be able to put the torque to the ground unless you're driving around with MT slicks all day and night.

So let's do a basic open-to-error comparison, just for fun:

Dyno chart from this page:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95412

Modded LS1 (394 @ ~6krpm):




Michael Filippello's 403 rwhp @ 14 psi single-turbo:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=244270




Modded LS1: Variance of about 60 ft-lbs from 2500 rpm to 6200 rpm.
13B-REW RX6B: Variance of about 50 ft-lbs from 3500 rpm to 7500 rpm.

One looks like usuable torque over a 4300 rpm range.
Another looks like usable torque over a 5000 rpm range.

Gearing, final drive differences, etc. aren't even in the picture yet.

Hardly the big fat monster torque v8 curve killing the less usable "peaky" turbo rotary curve that some people try to make it out to be.

Yes, a turbocharger has initial spool-up lag. No you do not suffer this same lag everytime you shift gears or make a change in throttle application - especially with a ball-bearing turbo.

Just for fun, another "flat-torque" dyno:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122699



Nice flat torque curve there.

Another:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121304




As you see, lots of torque there.
What you don't see: the final drives are in no way the same, gearing not the same, weight not even close.

FD is not the end-all-be-all of cars, that's a given. But a V8 is not the end-all-be-all of engines or power-to-the-ground either.

 

if you can afford a 60K Z06 you can afford a FD with a swap which is a faster/better handling car (with a 20B)

BTW, water injection cures detonation. Look it up.

 

Good tuning's also a cure for detonation.

20B swap/ported motor at a "SAFE" 14 psi will net you over 600 rwhp....crank the boost up to 19 and you'll be in the 700's.

 

Here we go again. This isn't Nopistons.com. "Good Tuning" seems to be hard to find since everyone seems to blow their engine up including all the professional tuners.

I had my car tuned by a respected rotary shop. I am running 11:5 to 12:1. I tuned without the WI and run it during boost so I dont have to worry about a bad tank of gas (91 octain cali) or some other stupid problem.

What is tuned good today has problems as soon as the weather changes, etc.

 

BS.

 

um, wtf is BS?

 

"Here we go again. This isn't Nopistons.com. "Good Tuning" seems to be hard to find since everyone seems to blow their engine up including all the professional tuners.

I had my car tuned by a respected rotary shop. I am running 11:5 to 12:1. I tuned without the WI and run it during boost so I dont have to worry about a bad tank of gas (91 octain cali) or some other stupid problem.

What is tuned good today has problems as soon as the weather changes, etc."

^^^ That is.

You don't tune for 12 psi and only 12 psi.

 

seems acurate to me. you DO tune for 12 psi if you are smart. people blow motors on less without tuning.

 

Clayne, before I call you a New-B and Flame you, maybe if you had half a brain you would realize that 11:5-12:1 is my A/F ?

Calling BS on this makes me want to re-think your previous posts, you seem to like to use that word even when it doesn't apply.

FYI, I had my car tuned at Rx7fashion, maybe you heard of it?

 

Let me clarify:

"What is tuned good today has problems as soon as the weather changes, etc.""

If the tuning is ***.

 

thats not what you said. You said You don't tune for 12 psi and only 12 psi., thinking that the 12:1 I mentioned was boost. Now thats really funny.

I was making a point, there is always something that changes (weather, bad gas, etc) that can put the engine at risk. Especially if you are tuned a little lean.

 

so clayne buddy,,,, havnt a word about YOUR FD, if you have one.... You post all these pretty dynos of the 20b with high HP numbers, but still havnt heard a word about your car......hmmm
BTW Mahjik you! haha

 

BM,

My car is just a simple 300 rwhp car. It has little to do with the discussion at hand.

So when are you coming to the bayarea for our track driving?

BTW: There wasn't a single 20b in there.

 

Huh?

 

gt 35/40 or the bnr stage 3's...so my answer is definetly turbo why take out the rotary the part of the car that makes our car so unique. Those who say this is the last motor you knew the heartache and trouble that comes with these cars so deal with it and dont ruin the rx7 but if you do ruin it can I buy your turbo's puhleeeese.

 

yo sparky, i have a very nice Garret GT66 single turbo conversion for sale, 3500 mi, HKS WG, HKS 3in DP, and more! PM me

--im comming to Nor Cal begging of summer, il have full ITR 5 lug by then and if you wanna be fair want i should put the turbo setup on my car??? Although on motor it will rape your car anyhow, i had a 350 RWHP Rx7,,, so i know how many bus lengths ill school you by...

 

Haha.

Bring your Del Sol to the track and let's go.

I hope you've done some weight reduction and stiffening - because you're obviously smoking crack.