jeff8932612

Hi,

I am beginning to plan what all i want done when i get my engine rebuilt. ( i know it should be happening soon cause i got 109k on the original!!!) Anyways..my goal is to get a strong...not supersonic...and more reliable engine than stock. Right now i am looking at 2mm hurley seals, rebuild at pineapple with mild streetport and oil mods. I also plan to get my vacuum hoses changed. WHat else do you all recommend i should do to help the reliability and power of this motor. I dont want anything outrageous fast...just a little faster than stock. Maybe like 300 rwhp or so. Some people mentioned upgrade the fuel system with parts like better fuel pump, bigger injectors, comp., etc. WHat do you think? And please recommend specific companies and their products so i can begin compiling my "wishlist" ? My current mods are listed below. THanks alot guys!

-Jeff

jeff8932612

and if i get it ported...will i still be able to buy a piggyback comp for my car? Or can only the stand-alone units support ported engines?THanks



-Jeff

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Change the engine mounts, since the engine is out.

BTW: There was another thread exactly like this maybe a month ago. I'm all searched out for the day.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I would get a Apex'i PFC or the new AEM, and find someone that can tune it for you.
While you engine is out, upgrade to an ACT clutch and a lightweigth flywheel.
While your at it upgrade the radiator and replace the hoses and clean the engine bay.

jeff8932612

what about the fuel system? should i go for bigger injectors and pump? I would like to get the PFC but i live near New Orleans. I dont know of anybody who can tune rx-7's around here.

Silex

What glassy said and plus maybe a new intercooler with aluminum end tanks and also make sure you did all of the reliability mods (ast, dp, boost gauge, etc.).

Silex

That's not even super important yet until you go aftermarket turbos. Trust me, the radiator and intercooler (if you decide to get them) will set you over the top enough as it is (~$2k total) so just leave it at that .

jeff8932612

boomer,

what did you mean when you said.."will set you over the top enough as it is". Where you referring to budget? or the reliability those mods (intercooler and radiator) will add? Thanks for all the help guys!


-Jeff

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

If you just plan on having 300-330 rwhp, you don't need to upgrade the fuel system, but if you are power hungry(and who isn't) upgrade the pump and the injectors.
I don't know how much your budget is for something like this, just the engine is going to set you back some coin.
Its kind of vague, I could tell you its a good time to go single turbo, FMIC, BOV, Polish everything etc...

cmartinp28

get a better radiator, and a better temp guage

jeff8932612

i am looking more for reliability than speed. i already did all the no-brainer reliability mods...i was wondering what parts i should get along with my engine are good for reliability. Lets call it stage 2 or stage 3 on the reliability list. STage 1 can include boost gauge, ast, turbo timer, etc....

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

New Radiator and Thermotec hoses, you may want to switch to Evans as well.

New Silcone Vacuum Lines.
New T-Stat.
Down Pipe.*** The Fist mod anyone should do.
Highflow car or Midpipe and a catback.
Large SMIC.
Have primary injectors cleaned and balanced.
1300 CC Injectors.
Supra Fuel Pump.
Power FC.
Vented Hood.
New Engine Mounts.
Torque Brace.
New Flywheel.
New Clutch.
New Fule Pulsation Damper.
Relocate Fuel Filter.

That good enough for now???

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

You should also look at your turbos and think about having them rebuilt or refreshed as well. Its not too hard to do it yourself, but its something worth checking into.

ttb

wow, 109k miles on original..how's it running? i'm at 102k miles. i'm planning/saving as well. i think it's going to cost me around 6k for the rebuild. what mods do you currently have?

ttb

nevermind, saw our sig

mmonaco

3mm seal. WHat the hell are you saying go with 2mm. YOu must be stupid go with 3mm. But stock 2mm are way better. I could do this for ever.lol.
Marc

jeff8932612

mmonaco,

I have heard that the 3mm seals may be more durable but they do not seal as well as 2mm seals. Plus dont you have to machine the rotor so the 3mm seal will fit?Which seals do you guys prefer? Thanks.




-Jeff

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

2mm

mmonaco

YOu are right on the info you put forword. IF you are going to tune your engine yourself go with 3mm, if you are having someone tune your car then go with 2mm. Eithor way bad tuning is bad tunning. I went with 2mm cause it was i felt was the better seal. and yes you have to machine the rotor to fit 3mm. IT all up to you. there are manty poeple runing 30+ psi on stock 2mm seal and have had and having great results. Theres a big thread on the pros and con so do a search.
Marc

Mr. Stock

Dude,

You need a downpipe.

And also get a coolant temp gauge installed.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I believe he has a Water Temp gauge, and I agree on the downpipe, its one of the fist mods anyone should do.

Mr. Stock

My bad!
Sorry, I read the mod list too quickly.
However, the downpipe is a glaring omission on your mod list.

jeff8932612

yeah, i am definitely going to get a downpipe when i get my engine done. i am wondering if i will need a new computer if i get my engine ported and install a downpipe. Cause i already have intake....that'll make 3 power mods....

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

Having just done this 8 months ago, here is what I did:

**Replace all coolant hoses
-Magnecor plug wires
**Upgrade radiator
-Send out injectors to be sonic cleaned and balanced
**Replace all vacuum hoses with Viton tubing and tie wraps
-Send out turbos for rebuild, but they're probably all cracked to hell in the turbine housings (can't see unless you take them apart) so this may be $$
**Flush heater core completely and replace coolant with Evans NPG+ (used 7# rad cap)
-powder coat/paint/chrome/polish misc brackets and fittings
**Replace fuel filter (if you don't know when it was last changed)
Clean everything (all parts and engine bay)
-aluminum AST (you have already)
-water temp gauge (you have already)
-new PS and ALT belts
-Plan ahead for future mods, if you are adding more power, get a clutch. Think about the parts that are easy to reach while the engine is out (clutch, turbos, engine mounts, 5th gear synchro, under drive pulleys, coils and weigh your pocket book vs the effort to take care of these items later.

(** items are top priority) IMHO

You will be amazed at how much this is gonna' cost you, so prioritize. Planning can go a long way, so make a list of all your parts, cost them out, there will be some unexpected costs so factor in a cushion, and don't forget shipping costs. Keep a log with suppliers, contacts, phone #'s and web addresses, and nescesary parts list as well as a wish list.

Have fun!


Frank

rotorbrain

IF YOU ARE PORTING YOUR ENGINE THEN YOU NEED SOME SORT OF ECU TUNING EQUIPMENT. i say piggyback schmiggyback. . . get the real deal. youll love it. . . power fc or aem. that aem looks to be the way to go. IMO the stand alone ecu IS a reliability mod.

paul