What to replace when dropping the tranny - on a budget
#1
What to replace when dropping the tranny - on a budget
Yeah, punch me for mentioning 'budget' on an FD board...
I have a noisy throwout or pilot bearing, so obviously I'm going to replace both.
I need to know whether the other items are 'must' replace, 'optional', or 'only if needed'? I'm doing the work myself, so I want to fix this bearing problem completely without spending $$ on unnecessary things.
Here's my list of things I'm considering:
1) wire ring
2) wedge collar
3) tranny jack (I have one floor jack, will that be enough?)
4) Pilot bearing oil seal
5) Mainshaft Bearing Seal
6) Mainshaft Bearing
7) Mazda Pilot Bearing Puller (Autozone equivalent?)
8) other?
Your thoughts please.
Dave
I have a noisy throwout or pilot bearing, so obviously I'm going to replace both.
I need to know whether the other items are 'must' replace, 'optional', or 'only if needed'? I'm doing the work myself, so I want to fix this bearing problem completely without spending $$ on unnecessary things.
Here's my list of things I'm considering:
1) wire ring
2) wedge collar
3) tranny jack (I have one floor jack, will that be enough?)
4) Pilot bearing oil seal
5) Mainshaft Bearing Seal
6) Mainshaft Bearing
7) Mazda Pilot Bearing Puller (Autozone equivalent?)
8) other?
Your thoughts please.
Dave
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I also recommend changing the gear oil when you drop the tranny. You can leave the driveshaft stuffed in the back of the tranny and ziptie it to keep it in, but it just makes the assembly real wobbly and unstable.
If the noise is just annoying, I'd think about waiting until you have enough for a clutch. Most throwout bearing type noises are more annoying than impending doom, at least in my experience.
I'm with Jeff - you don't need a tranny jack. If you have 2 or more people, it's not that hard. Sagging motor mounts can make it tricky to get the tranny lined back up, though. I did a clutch job on a low-mileage FD once, and the tranny went in SUPER easy. If the motor mounts are old and tired, the engine will sag forward, making it tricky to line the tranny back up. You'll have to have someone pushing the motor backwards into place to get it all to line up, or hook up an engine hoist to reposition it.
With the pilot bearing, they're either good or bad. If it's still got grease in it, all the needles are there, the seal is in good shape, etc., just re-lube it and be done with it. You're more likely to mess up installing a new pilot bearing.
Dale
If the noise is just annoying, I'd think about waiting until you have enough for a clutch. Most throwout bearing type noises are more annoying than impending doom, at least in my experience.
I'm with Jeff - you don't need a tranny jack. If you have 2 or more people, it's not that hard. Sagging motor mounts can make it tricky to get the tranny lined back up, though. I did a clutch job on a low-mileage FD once, and the tranny went in SUPER easy. If the motor mounts are old and tired, the engine will sag forward, making it tricky to line the tranny back up. You'll have to have someone pushing the motor backwards into place to get it all to line up, or hook up an engine hoist to reposition it.
With the pilot bearing, they're either good or bad. If it's still got grease in it, all the needles are there, the seal is in good shape, etc., just re-lube it and be done with it. You're more likely to mess up installing a new pilot bearing.
Dale
#4
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
I would replace the pilot bearing regardless of its condition. It's cheap. If the clutch doesn't have many miles on it, its probably fine. If it has high miles, I would just keep driving the car (putting up with the noise) until you can afford to replace the clutch. Pulling the tranny isn't something I like to do very often.
#5
Thanks TurboJeff, adam_c, and dcfc3s.
The car has 60k so the mounts should be good. A previous owner installed an ACT clutch of some sort and I expect to find they could have done a better job. (Based on evidence in other parts of the car). The fluid is Redline Lightweight Shockproof, about 1 year/ 5k old - I think I'll catch it, reuse, and top off as needed unless the fluid indicates otherwise.
The clutch assy itself is probably fine, but I have a lightly used (30k) stock clutch + flywheel set that I can put in if necessary. I will try to borrow a Mazda Pilot bearing puller and I have a depth mic so I think I can do that right. The car is not my dd so I wouldn't be furious if I needed to drop the tranny again. (Maybe I should hold that comment till I've done it once)
Should I go ahead and buy the wire ring, wedge collar, and PPF nuts?
Will 75% moly disulfide grease work for lubing the throwout assy? (FSM refers to white moly sulfide)
So revising the list:
1) wire ring <- yes
2) wedge collar <- yes
3) tranny jack <- No (unless I won't have help)
4) Pilot bearing oil seal <- yes
5) Mainshaft Bearing Seal <- no
6) Mainshaft Bearing <-no
7) Mazda Pilot Bearing Puller (Autozone equivalent?)
<- yes
8) other <- PPF nuts?
Dave
The car has 60k so the mounts should be good. A previous owner installed an ACT clutch of some sort and I expect to find they could have done a better job. (Based on evidence in other parts of the car). The fluid is Redline Lightweight Shockproof, about 1 year/ 5k old - I think I'll catch it, reuse, and top off as needed unless the fluid indicates otherwise.
The clutch assy itself is probably fine, but I have a lightly used (30k) stock clutch + flywheel set that I can put in if necessary. I will try to borrow a Mazda Pilot bearing puller and I have a depth mic so I think I can do that right. The car is not my dd so I wouldn't be furious if I needed to drop the tranny again. (Maybe I should hold that comment till I've done it once)
Should I go ahead and buy the wire ring, wedge collar, and PPF nuts?
Will 75% moly disulfide grease work for lubing the throwout assy? (FSM refers to white moly sulfide)
So revising the list:
1) wire ring <- yes
2) wedge collar <- yes
3) tranny jack <- No (unless I won't have help)
4) Pilot bearing oil seal <- yes
5) Mainshaft Bearing Seal <- no
6) Mainshaft Bearing <-no
7) Mazda Pilot Bearing Puller (Autozone equivalent?)
<- yes
8) other <- PPF nuts?
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 06-24-04 at 05:34 PM.
#6
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
I dont see the need to replace the wire ring unless you damge it when removing. No need to replace the PPF nuts either.
I think any good quality high temp grease will be fine.
If you plan on bolting the clutch to the flywheel, and then installing the tranny, you will need a clutch alignment tool. If you install the tranny with the clutch in it, you wont need the tool.
I think any good quality high temp grease will be fine.
If you plan on bolting the clutch to the flywheel, and then installing the tranny, you will need a clutch alignment tool. If you install the tranny with the clutch in it, you wont need the tool.
Last edited by adam c; 06-24-04 at 06:22 PM.
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#9
Originally posted by Sgtblue
Clutch fork? I think they tend to break over time, especially with a strengthened (stiffer) PP such as ACT. Not a lot, if it's in your budget... about $65 from Malloy.
Clutch fork? I think they tend to break over time, especially with a strengthened (stiffer) PP such as ACT. Not a lot, if it's in your budget... about $65 from Malloy.
Dave
#10
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by dgeesaman
Looking at the FSM, it appears I'll need to pull the clutch cover to replace the pilot bearing. Therefore I'll need the alignment tool.
Looking at the FSM, it appears I'll need to pull the clutch cover to replace the pilot bearing. Therefore I'll need the alignment tool.
#11
Super Snuggles
If you're working on your car by yourself, you should really consider buying a transmission jack. Trying to balance a transmission on a standard jack is extremely dangerous. In fact, even if you have help, a transmission jack can make the job a lot easier. Fortunately, they don't have to cost an arm and a leg...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178
I've used mine for a number of things.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178
I've used mine for a number of things.
#12
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might as well throw a disc in there to, and not have to touch it again for a while
#13
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You can get the clutch alignment tool at like Pep Boys for a few bucks - it's just a simple plastic doodad. I recommend using it - you can make sure the clutch is EXACTLY lined up, and that makes reinstalling the tranny far easier.
I usually install the clutch/pressure plate with the bolts most of the way tight, then wiggle the alignment tool around and find the center. Pull the alignment tool in and out a few times after you tighten the bolt - it should slip in super easy.
BTW, you don't need special super duper grease for the TO bearing and whatnot - just good ole high temp axle grease will do just fine. You just need a good, thick grease that will stick around. Lube the pilot bearing well too - pack some grease in it with your pinky and roll the bearings around.
Dale
I usually install the clutch/pressure plate with the bolts most of the way tight, then wiggle the alignment tool around and find the center. Pull the alignment tool in and out a few times after you tighten the bolt - it should slip in super easy.
BTW, you don't need special super duper grease for the TO bearing and whatnot - just good ole high temp axle grease will do just fine. You just need a good, thick grease that will stick around. Lube the pilot bearing well too - pack some grease in it with your pinky and roll the bearings around.
Dale
#14
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Damn, Jim, that's a good price on the tranny jack. I'll have to get that next time I head over to Harbor Freight. There's a store an hour from here, and we make trips every now and again. That place is like heaven .
Dale
Dale
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