hi.
just wondering what i should expect in power with the following mods:
hks twin intake
ARC SMIC
veilside explosion Catback
petitt resonated midpipe
Its a jdm so there is no precat on the downpipe (should i replase it then?)
REamemiya ecu with 15psi turbo preasure
platinum spark plugs.

What would this get me in RWHP? Top speed? 0-100?
am also getting an custom alu radiator (bigger and thikker than koyo and fluidyne)


By tha way: adding a pic of my car.
itj just out of the paintshop, 3layers of clear,with a little red paint in, looks amasing

 

Nice car. It's tough to say your power. They only way to know for sure is to dyno it. It also depends on the boost you are running. at 10 psi, I'd say a little over 300 to the wheels??? That's just my guess though

 

at 10 psi I do not think you will make 300 to the wheels, but at the 15 your running something close to 330-340 (my estimate)

 

I say 341.23 to the wheels, give or take a hp or two.

 

did you use a calculator or something? or do you know someone with the mods?

 

no fuel mods and 15 psi?

 

That's 2134.37 horse POWER at the rear but you have to get it tuned

 

tuned? the Re ecu will be tuned for these mods,
after what i read the stock fuel system is suffisent for 15psi?

 

Haha, I would have upgraded the fuel system with those mods.

 

I used a calculator, my head

 

I say 320 if you still have the stock cat on there (I don't understand what you are saying about no precat on the DP) if it's a straight exhaust then about 335....

If you are still running your stock injectors please be careful. I had PFC tuned for 12 PSI with the same type of mods and I was seeing IDC of 95% at times. Definately not safe. Just watch for boost spikes and also watch your IDC....Well, you can't..You have no way to know what your injector duty is Honestly. I think if you are still on the 550/850 stockers you will be maxing them out.

 

I think your probably a little over 300 to the wheels. I guess it really depends on how strong/old your motor is. If its tired, you will see dramatic decreases in power over what it should be. Put her on a dyno, and find out to be sure. Shoot us some numbers when you get a chance.

 

Dont run over 13psi to be on the safe side. Thats first thing.
Be aware that with straight exhaust you MAY experience boost creep - meaning the wastegate is just to small to dump all the excessive exhaust gasses - and boost rises and rises to the point where you experience a VERY dangerous lean condition which WILL cause detonation and it WILL destroy your apex seals. Then you are looking at 4000Euros rebuild cost (or more). Thats second thing. So get boost controller and limit boost to max 13psi... or better to 12psi.

You should stop by the European section on the forum - the third thing

But wait... there's more If you intend to install even thicker radiator then Koyo in stock position, you WILL experience problems with IC duct fitment.

And unless you have a dynojet dyno at your disposal, dont expect anywhere near 300rwhp. Thats the last thing

But you CAN expect to run low 13s on 402m on street tires and on street tarmac. Oh wait... that was the last thing

Nice car... you got the fastest color

 

"Nice car... you got the fastest color "
thanks. i love it to.

and to further explain about the dp. if i understand correctly the japanese(JDM) rx7`s didtn come with the precat. and if they didnt, there is no reason for buying a aftermarked DP?
or is it?
i know there is a bend on the DP, but a rotaryexpert in norway says that i should leave it there, it helps prevent boostspikes(dont know if it is true)

Data on the car:
1992 JDM Right hand drive typeR1
100000km on engine/about 60k miles.
feels really nice to drive so i think the engine is in good condition,
do i really nees a boostcontroller it the reprogrammed ecu is set to 15psi?

thanks for all the good answers by the way, aprisiate that you take the time to bother:

 

Dont run 15psi mate. Get a BC and limit the boost to 12-13psi.
Injectors are at their 100% IDC at 15psi (or should be to assure proper AFRs) and that is bad.

And rotary engines do not necessarily loose performance. Some feel at their best just before they pop

Yes... I'd leave your stock DP, which is empty by default in Japan. It doesnt flow as nicely, but this is the reason that you are not experiencing boost creep which I explained earlier.

 

ok. but what if i get 1000 or 1600 secondary injectors that will do it right?
what do they cost and where can i buy some

 

About the DP. JDM cars do not have a precat. You can still upgrade to a 3", as the jdm stock one is 2.5".

 

You can't just go changing **** without compensating with other ****. Fuel Pump, Tuning, etc.

 

havent bought the ecu yet, will get it programmed for whatewer mod i put on the car

 

Hmm... you are not telling us something then.

I thought you already had an ECU in your car ? You better not be running on stock ECU with those mods.

If you plan on getting a new computer... then get Apexi PowerFC and then you can tune it with bigger injectors, yes. Dont forget about better fuel pump also.

 

he said he has an ECU

you really do need a fuel pump and injectors for those mods and 15psi.

If youre sure youre not going any higher than 15psi than you might not need a boost controllers, although if you are running non-seq you probably do. The RX-7 store came to the conclusion that anyone who has converted to non-seq WILL need a boost controller.

I would say youre okay once you get a pump and bigger injectors. I'm not very familiar with the RE ECU (cant get them in the US) but I'm sure they are good and comparable to the Apex'i or microtech.

 

RE ECU is like M2 or Pettit, so my statement still stands

 

ok,
these are the following mods i allready have:
catback(veilside) hks twin intake and turboxs HRFL.
all the other thins are stuff im going to or allready have ordered,
posted here to find out if im going the right way, and to get some advise.
cant the pettit/m2'/re ecu`s handle bigger injectors?
and for the pfc, would love to buy one, but the cost so much, and they need tuning, wich is extreemly expensive and allmost impossible to do in norway,

my goal is 300+Rwhp, need to find the best and most cost effective/safe way to do so

and no, im newer going nonseq, love having the turbos come on at 1800rpm.

when my engine blows some day, it is going to bo rebuilt with small or medium streetport.
but that is faar into the future(i hope )

 

Get PFC... really... its better in the long run. Or I can sell you my M2 Stage3 ECU. I'm thinking of PFC lately