JTurtonRX_7

Car makes this noise at idle, during engine decceleration, and coasting in gear. What is it, what can I do to stop it? Any information or help would be appreciated.

http://www.radford.edu/~jturton/2005...Vids%20003.mpg

mad_7tist

it is your car telling you you suk at taking vids.... just kidding but i cant hear ****

JTurtonRX_7

You can clearly hear the loud rapid ticking noise. I am moving around the camera in order to give people a better idea of where the sound is coming from. I have searched, please i do not need comments from the peanut gallery. If you have something constructive to say please do.
If you cant tell it is taken from behind the front passenger wheel.
I will be taking the UIM off tomorrow but for a different reason (gas smell, might be FPD) anything I should check while I'm at it?

Thanks

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

And your host sucks. Took FOREVER to download that clip.

I don't know what that sound is, but for those that lack the codec to hear it, it sounds like a loud diesel truck @ idle.

JTurtonRX_7

Does anyone know a better place i can host it? Yea, my schools hosting is crappy.

spekdah

here we go again, the ever elusive "Ticking noise" that even I still cannot fix on my car, this is truly theh Gremlin of the FD

mgoddard1

Apparently Radford University can only afford a single AOL dialup account for their internet access. I suggest you get a mechanic's stethoscope to pinpoint the source of that godawful noise but it sort of sounds like a bad throwout bearing to me or possibly a bad bearing in the transmission. Does the sound go away when you push the clutch in?

zkeller

iTrader: (47)

It's the valve on the master cylinder rattling through the firewall from the metal line that runs from the left to te right side. Put a rubber isolater between the bracket and the bolt and it will go away.

jeremyb

Brakes or clutch.... I'm assuming clutch... either way can you be more speficic routing wise? I can't imagine how this would have an effect so loud.

Jeremy

spekdah

infamouse "ticking noise" reasons.

1.Loose heatsheild
2.spark plug wires arching
3.coils ( cant remember how)
4.Injectors
5.bad FPD
6.UIM gasket
7.LIM gasket
8.Pulley belt hitting on something in idle only
9.any other random loose rattling thing
10.bad solenoid ( SEQ )
I seem to remember an issue with the wastegate door as well , I could be wrong

but I think that sounds like alutch issue, sounds far to out of tempo to be a rattling or gasket problem.
Does it ( ticking) increase and decrease with ur RPM?

rynberg

The ticking noise problem at idle and light throttle that sounds like it's coming from behind the dash is the brake line check valve. Do a search under my user name for the solution, which is a rubber mount from Mazda.

That may help some of the people jumping into this thread but it sounds like the OP has a more serious issue (I didn't listen to the vid).

spekdah

that video was from under the car.
you wouldnt hear a ticking noise from the dash down there would you?
if the ticking noise in that video is coming from under the dash then that sucks!

weaklink

exhaust leak?

weaklink

ok searched with "rynberg brake line check valve" NO MATCHES. Used "find more posts by user" and gave up after scrolling through about 5 pages.

weaklink

ok I found it:

TSB does not replace teh valve itself
The TSB adds a rubber isolator to the mounting point that holds the brake booster line. You can't keep the valve from fluttering/ticking, but the isolator does a good job of removing the noise from the cabin. For $5-$15 and a few minuts, it is a good thing to do.

TSB 011/97.

F285-13-363 - Rubber Mounting - about $11 (a "stud") - this is the only part you have to order from Mazda
9994-00-600 - Flange Nut - about $2 - yes, for a single brass 10mm nut! A good place to save $2, if you don't mind a trip to the hardware store, or rummaging through that big bin of spare hardware you have.

Install (5 mins)
Need a 10mm socket, and crescent wrench (not sure of size)
------

there is a metal vacuum pipe that runs along the top of the firewall. It is held on with two stamped metal brackets. The passenger end bracket has the engine ground on it. Both ends have easy access. This is the metal tube that the brake booster line, with the shuttle valve in it, connects to.
1. Remove the 10mm bolt from the drivers side bracket - toss it, swallow it, or add it to the big bin of misc hardware you have. Er, don't actually swallow it.
2. Loosen the 10mm bolt on the passenger side.
3. Screw the rubber isolator stud into the firewall where the driver's side bolt came from.
4. place the driver's side bracket on the other end of the stud
5. secure with the flange nut.
6. tighten the passenger side bolt again.

done.

BigBoosting

I have the same problem...Have my turbos off now...They aren't going back on until I find the problem. I'll let you know how it goes.

Get a metal sounding tick at idle, coasting, and deceleration. The higher the rpm, the faster the tick...the lower the rpm, the slower the tick. Driving me insane. Here's my thread about it: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/turbos-make-noise-397961/ I don't believe it's an exhaust leak since it sounds like metal on metal.

I'll let you know what I find out this weekend.

witepsycho

i tried to DL the video... i got high speed and it still said like an hour and a half

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Could be one of the turbo actuators doors are loose. The rod going to the actuator arm may be a little loose, making the door "flap" at idle.

Remove the E-clip that holds the rod to the flapper door. With the rod totally off, the hole at the rod end should cover half of the round peg from the flapper door, where you end up pulling the rod out a hair to put it on the flapper door.

This could probably be tested by using a long screwdriver. Jack up the car securely and run the car at idle. Press the screwdriver against components that could be rattling - when you touch the rattling item, it should quiet down or change pitch.

Could also be a small exhaust leak - they're fun to track down .

Dale

JTurtonRX_7

No mgoddard1, the noise does not go away when the clutch is in. The sound is there at idle like in the video, louder upon engine deceleration and louder while in gear and coasting. Radford University is currently going through class registration so the webservers are being hammered, sorry.

Spekdah:
Not a heatshield, i checked all of those last week
Not sparkplug wires, i checked them a few weeks ago.

Rynberg, I cant hear it in the car with the windows up, its not coming from the dash. I can hear it with the windows down when i pass cars so the sound bounces off of them to me.

Weaklink: Exhuast leak that is possible, what is the ATF trick to check for exhuast leaks?

Bigboosting: Please pm me anyinformation you get from your troubleshooting because it sounds like you have the same problem i have. I read through your whole thread when i was searching. Good Luck

DaleClark: I checked those out last week but not in the way you described. I just jacked up the car, started it, then poked myhead down there to try to see where the sound is coming from. I will try your method soon.

This weekend I must check where the dreaded fuel smell is coming from, so its UIM off and fuelpump on to check for leaks. Anything to check while im at it?

Thanks for the ideas guys

BigBoosting

Well, I checked what Dale said. Turns out I didn't even have that e-clip. I'm going non-sequential today...which will make that arm null, so if I don't have the noise after that I'll let you know.

Thanks Dale.

mgoddard1

Fuel odors around the UIM are a bad thing and should be checked out immediately. More than one rx7 has gone up in flames due to a failed fuel pulsation dampener and if you still have the orginal one then it's probably due for replacement.

JTurtonRX_7

Bigboosting: sounds good, this way we can know if it was a sequential item or something else.

mgoddard1: yup thats why the uim, throttle body and intake elbow are currently sitting next to me on the desk

BigBoosting

YES!! The tick was the actuator arm! Praise Dale! OMG you have no idea how much that annoyed me. Jturton, check that arm/door or just go non-sequential. Fixed that tick right up

YAY!

Edit: But just in case, also note I got rid of my air pump and installed an intake. Doubt it has to do with those, but just might be good to know if by some freak occurance it wasn't the turbos.

JTurtonRX_7

OK, thanks for the heads up. I will check it out again when i get this Fuel smell sorted out.