What to look for when buying '93 RX7 ?
What to look for when buying '93 RX7 ?
Hi !
Tomorrow I'm going to see a 1993 RX7 with 130.000km on odometer (about 85k miles). It has got all the options. As I don't know much about these cars (apart from bad reliability of the rotary engine) I was wondering if anyone could post anything specific I should look for, or be vary of in this car - e.g. any noises, or how can I see whether the recommended reliability modifications have been done already (brakes (vacuum hose modification), new (high temp) fuel lines and cooling system (pressure cap and fan control module)). The owner said the car runs great and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. And I assume it probably wouldn't last this long without the necessary modifications done already.
How does a healthy engine sound ? Does it vibrate anyhow differently compared to normal (Otto) engines ?
I've seen some web pages claiming engine rebuilds for $2400 which doesnt sound so bad though. What does this $2.4k rebuild consist of - I mean what do they change/rebuild ?
Thanks a bunch.
Greetings from Europe,
Tadej
Tomorrow I'm going to see a 1993 RX7 with 130.000km on odometer (about 85k miles). It has got all the options. As I don't know much about these cars (apart from bad reliability of the rotary engine) I was wondering if anyone could post anything specific I should look for, or be vary of in this car - e.g. any noises, or how can I see whether the recommended reliability modifications have been done already (brakes (vacuum hose modification), new (high temp) fuel lines and cooling system (pressure cap and fan control module)). The owner said the car runs great and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. And I assume it probably wouldn't last this long without the necessary modifications done already.
How does a healthy engine sound ? Does it vibrate anyhow differently compared to normal (Otto) engines ?
I've seen some web pages claiming engine rebuilds for $2400 which doesnt sound so bad though. What does this $2.4k rebuild consist of - I mean what do they change/rebuild ?
Thanks a bunch.
Greetings from Europe,
Tadej
Well first off i would like to say welcome to the Forum cruiser. Here is a little helpful link to check out. It'll tell you pretty much all you need to know when looking for an Rx-7
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm
When starting up the 7 you may notice that it backfires a bit or just makes a little popping noise, and vibrates minorly, mine does on cold startups. If it is cold outside, and the car is cold you may notice a decent amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe untill the main cat warms up. If it has a DP.
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm
When starting up the 7 you may notice that it backfires a bit or just makes a little popping noise, and vibrates minorly, mine does on cold startups. If it is cold outside, and the car is cold you may notice a decent amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe untill the main cat warms up. If it has a DP.
here is a link that'll explain what goes into an engine rebuild.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/rebuild_kit.html
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/rebuild_kit.html
Look at the coolant hoses. If they are swolen, especially the big one that goes into the front of the engine right below the fill cap (you'll see what I mean. This is the upper radiator hose). If there is swelling, such that it is larger than the hose clamp holding it on, be prepare to replace all of the cooling hoses (14 of them!!). This is not a terrifically difficult job, but one of the harder ones, and certainly pretty involved. At 85K miles, I'm gonna bet these need it bad.
Check for the AST having been replaced/upgraded. This will be a small tank hanging off the intercooler, on the drivers side off the front of the engine. It has a coolant cap on it, and is the only other place a coolant cap exists, other than the filler cap on the engine itself (I don't have pictures, you might never have seen this stuff, so bear with...). This tank should either be metal (the stock one is plastic and black in color) or eliminated. If you find the plastic one there, get ready to replace it as soon as possible.
Next, check the radiator. Is it stock? You can tell by looking at the bottom of the radiator, which you should just be able to make out by looking straight down the front of the engine. If you see a greenish plastic, this is the stock radiator, and should also be replaced.
Next, ask for some proof the 60K mile servicing was performed. This includes replacing the fuel filter, changing all fluids, the air cleaner element, the spark plugs. If it hasn't been done, or they can't prove it, be prepared to do it as soon as possible after you purchase.
Then engine will feel very smooth once warmed up, not buzzy or rough at all. There should be a faint whirring sound while ideling. Check to see how much noise you hear when the clutch is out and in neutral versus the clutch in. If it's prety loud, you may be in for some tranny work. Depends on the fluid being used.
On driving, it should feel responsive and strong, like there is a whole bunch of power available if you needed it. If you punch it, do so smoothly, don't stab it. The thing will feel rather like an airplane taking off! If not, look for a boost gauge. If there isn't one, be ready to get one as soon as possible. If there is one, check the boost levels. While in third gear getting onto the freeway, smoothly press the accelerator and watch the boost. Note the number you see, and the rpms they show up at. Then check on this forum for proper behavior.
Lastly (!), check to see if the recalls have been performed. There should be little blue stickers on the underside of the hood listing the recall campain number and the date it was performed. If you see no sticker, prepare for some work with this one!
There is actually a HUGE amount more, but that is about the best you can expect to get through during the initial viewing of the machine. BE PUSHY! DO NOT let the owner tell you what he thinks was done. Get the service records. Make sure you check these things, unless this is going to be a rolling restoration project for you, and not your primary vehicle (mine is, but I work on my own machine, so I know what was done, and I know it was done right
) I would report back to us with what you found before you buy, unless this is a really well maintained and well documented machine.
That's all I got for now. WOW!
Check for the AST having been replaced/upgraded. This will be a small tank hanging off the intercooler, on the drivers side off the front of the engine. It has a coolant cap on it, and is the only other place a coolant cap exists, other than the filler cap on the engine itself (I don't have pictures, you might never have seen this stuff, so bear with...). This tank should either be metal (the stock one is plastic and black in color) or eliminated. If you find the plastic one there, get ready to replace it as soon as possible.
Next, check the radiator. Is it stock? You can tell by looking at the bottom of the radiator, which you should just be able to make out by looking straight down the front of the engine. If you see a greenish plastic, this is the stock radiator, and should also be replaced.
Next, ask for some proof the 60K mile servicing was performed. This includes replacing the fuel filter, changing all fluids, the air cleaner element, the spark plugs. If it hasn't been done, or they can't prove it, be prepared to do it as soon as possible after you purchase.
Then engine will feel very smooth once warmed up, not buzzy or rough at all. There should be a faint whirring sound while ideling. Check to see how much noise you hear when the clutch is out and in neutral versus the clutch in. If it's prety loud, you may be in for some tranny work. Depends on the fluid being used.
On driving, it should feel responsive and strong, like there is a whole bunch of power available if you needed it. If you punch it, do so smoothly, don't stab it. The thing will feel rather like an airplane taking off! If not, look for a boost gauge. If there isn't one, be ready to get one as soon as possible. If there is one, check the boost levels. While in third gear getting onto the freeway, smoothly press the accelerator and watch the boost. Note the number you see, and the rpms they show up at. Then check on this forum for proper behavior.
Lastly (!), check to see if the recalls have been performed. There should be little blue stickers on the underside of the hood listing the recall campain number and the date it was performed. If you see no sticker, prepare for some work with this one!
There is actually a HUGE amount more, but that is about the best you can expect to get through during the initial viewing of the machine. BE PUSHY! DO NOT let the owner tell you what he thinks was done. Get the service records. Make sure you check these things, unless this is going to be a rolling restoration project for you, and not your primary vehicle (mine is, but I work on my own machine, so I know what was done, and I know it was done right
) I would report back to us with what you found before you buy, unless this is a really well maintained and well documented machine.That's all I got for now. WOW!
Also, don't expect to find a winner on the first shot. Some people had to look at 10 + cars, but if everything checks out then good for you
Damn that was a lot to type spurvo, but good info.
Damn that was a lot to type spurvo, but good info.
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Have it inspected by a rotary specialist before you buy. They'll let you know exactly what is wrong with the car. Even if it passes the above mentioned by spurvo there could be a shitload wrong and you won't know until it's too late. Also, make sure you start the car cold. Not if it has already been warmed up (trust me). If there is something wrong with the car at startup (coolant/ white smoke comming out of exhaust) you won't know until the next morning when you've already bought the car. Btw, don't confuse white smoke with water vapor in cold humid weather. Plenty more should you want an elaboration.
-HeX
ps. Returning the love from when I first joined. (SIGH)
-HeX
ps. Returning the love from when I first joined. (SIGH)
Thanks to all for such nice replies. Actually this is one of the two RX7s in the country and only one on sale, and its going quite cheap. I'm going on road now and I'll report when I come back !
Cheers,
Tadej
Cheers,
Tadej
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