Today has been a complete pain in the ***! I finaly got my flange for my type rs and when I take it to Midas to get it welded onto my fmic pipe and the monkey did a Terrible job to describe it nicely! so i put the thing in and i cant get a noise out of it to save my life. i must have of put it in wronge i have a few pics of the instal. it shows it on the pipe, the vacume hose connected to it, and what i did with the stock bov. any help solving this problem would be so GREATLY appreciated!!!

 

sorry here they are~

 

Was the BOV mounted to the flange when he welded it in ????

 

Why don't you just remove the stock bov (bypass air control) and cap off the nipple on the side of the y-pipe and at the opening to the cone filter assembly. Your type rs completely takes over the function of the stock bov. I assume you have routed the vac line properly to the type rs from the side of the lim (the same line as went to the stock bov).

 

~i took the line that was hooked up to the stock bov, and put it on the rs. there is a big black hose connected to the stock bov, what should i do with that? also is there any way i could see a pic of the where to block those two things off please. fore some reason today i havent been able to under stand even the most simple of thigs! i guess its just one of those days

 

The black hose that comes off the y-pipe and swings around to the stock bov, the stock bov itself and the black hose going to the backside of the cone filter assembly can all be removed. You will need to get a rub nipple cap (approx. 1/2" in diameter) to close off the nipple on the side of the y-pipe and another one for the nipple on the filter assembly. You can buy them at most auto parts stores or just take a short piece of hose and hose clamp a bolt in one side. You will eventually want a nipple cap for looks.

 

Unless your black hose going to the factory BOV is split, cracked or leaking in any way it will stay sealed off and won't work (vent any air) with the vacuum line unhooked from it and routed o the RS BOV. The RS should then function as your factory BOV did and it should work.

 

you are making full boost? I was thinking with that high of a quality welding job there might be a leak. Or he hooked it up wrong.

 

^GREAT!! thank you so much for taking the time out to help me out with my prob, it really means ALOT to me! so if i get what your saying is, if i block off that hose to the y pipe then the RS should make a sound and then ill know if its working?

 

try getting a premade hose with the flange attached to it, midas used a spot welder rather than a mig or tig also aluminum is a bitch to weld...

 

Basically, yes. Just cap off the nipple at the y-pipe and you will then eliminate any leak possibilities. If the rs is not working then something is wrong with the rs or your weld for the flange.

 

yes i am making full boost so i guess the welding worked (just looks like crap!) i dont think that the black hose has any splits in it because the factory bov worked just fine so it dosent make any sense why it wouldent work just because i moved the vacume line to the RS. so should i just block off the black hose??

 

^^Well, you're trying to determine if the rs is working. As a result, I would want to eliminate any other possibilities for a leak. As I said, just cap off at the nipple and you will know there are no other leaks toward the direction of the old stock bov hosing.

 

Another thing you might consider. With the way the BOV points up, if you have the stock hood liner, all the air from the BOV will blow into the liner and may muffle the sound considerably.

 

okay i figured out the problem! the nipple off of the stock bov was open causing the leak (damn do i feel like a noob!) so problem one solved, i tightened the screw at the top and i can barely hear it when i rev it at idle with the hood open, so will i hear it more with the screw really loose or really tight, because i want to make sure this thing is working right

 

You adjust the screw to the point you don't hear any vacuum leaking at idle. After that, leave it alone.

 

[QUOTE=VegasFD]You adjust the screw to the point you don't hear any vacuum leaking at idle. After that, leave it alone.[/QUOTE

so if i dont hear any leaks then it should be working at its loudest/best?

 

Ta Da!! Now I'm going home.

 

You're a little too concerned with the audible aspect. Make sure it's doing it's job first. To answer your question, No. You may not hear vacuum, but you could have overtightened it which leads to compressor surge.

Loosen it all the way, then tighten it TO THE POINT you don't hear vacuum. Then stop tightening it.

 

im not really concerned with the sound, i just thought if you can hear it clearly then that means its working good. when the cars at idle and the nut is off i cant hear any leak, maby its there but the cars too damn loud to hear it