MakoDHardie

I just noticed this little hose sticking up between the intake manifold and the turbo-intercooler pipe. Its connected at the bottom but I haven't had the time to start taking pipes off to look down for where it could be connected at the top. The car's not driving any differently. Anybody know what it is?

MakoDHardie

another angle

MakoDHardie

Last shot

94RXMAGEE

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, Thats a broken check valve. Take the black vacume box off, right there on top and you'll find the other half of it. The heat tears them apart. You might be able to glue it back together but you might look around for someone selling them.

Good Luck,

Todd

saxyman990

it appears to be the line that runs from the y-pipe to to pressure tank. What you're seeing attached to the top of the hose looks like a check-valve thats busted in half.

saxyman990

Dang! 94RXMAGEE beat me to the punch. Oh well, not you have two agreeing opinions

MakoDHardie

anybody know where I can get them if I can't glue it back on? I'll mess with it next weekend when I get a chance. There's no vacuum hose connections underneath that cover that I should be careful with before I pull it up. What kind of glue should I try using to stick it back on?

dingleberry

Jason from www.jt-imports.com might sell his. He removed them from his motor he said.

poss

iTrader: (5)

if it's not driving differently, you have a problem. ie. no secondary boost

racerfoo

i have oohhhh so much to learn...lol

AJatx

iTrader: (1)

I have that vacuum box in my spares pparts bin.

J

saxyman990

you can get a replacement from the HELP! section at any auto store. However, these are pretty crappy and the heat from our extremely hot engines will destroy them after a little time. These replacement check valves will probably only last about 5000 - 10000 miles. But thats long enough to fix the problem until you get your hands on a mazda oem one.

maxcooper

I killed a HELP! brand one in a few thousand miles. It ended up flowing both ways. I don't recommend these, but it might work for a bit in a pinch.

You can get some check valves from http://www.mcmaster.com/. Get a good one since the price difference is not large and it can be a pain to diagnose problems when the valve doesn't just blow up like yours did. I recommend the 3/16" one with the highest temp body material and a Viton diaphragm. I think they are like $9.XX or something. The stock one is $25-$30 from the dealer.

-Max

MakoDHardie

maxcooper, I looked on the mcmaster website but there's gotta be a zillion check valves in there. Exactly which one would it be?

MakoDHardie

Nevermind, I found it.

Miniature Diaphragm Thermoplastic Check Valve PVDF Body/Viton Diaphragm, 3/16" Barbed End

$ 9.77 Each

Thanks.

MakoDHardie

By the way, what the hell does that check valve do?

suganuma

pressurizes that black chamber you can see in the pics to 7-8 psi to tell the solenoid in charge of the charge relief valve and your secondary turbo system to go to transition and kick in your secondary turbo thereby slamming you in your seat.

if its not driving any different you have rob bailey syndrome and your car is a dog right now....i.e. no secondary boost, you're just driving on one measly little turbo..

saxyman990

HEY!! I fixed it okay??? Its faster than yours right now, even before I fixed that little glitch in the turbo system.

But yeah, Suganuma's right, if the car feels the same, then you've been driving without the second turbo for a while. Just wait till you fix that problem... life gets much more interesting.

Rob Bailey

blackscorpio

check valve makes air only flow in one direction.

MakoDHardie

This is confusing me. I'm no pansy with my car. I know exactly what driving with both turbos booming feels like. I've been getting a good amount of power lately, but if you guys are saying that I'm running on 1 turbo, my car is insane. I got up over 150 the other day on a straight. Is that possible with the primary charger?..... Aside from that, I'm still feeling the extra pull at 4500. It might not be as monstrous as it it has been before, but does this just mean that the transition is going open, then back to the primary so that all gas is spinning the primary turbine?...or would that not make enough boost at 4500 alone to pull decently? Anyway, I ordered the check valve and a torque brace the other day so hopefully I'll put them in this weekend. My tire went flat tonight, so it looks like I'm going to be having an interesting weekend with the 7 if I can get Tire Rack to send me some Yokohamas real quick. Until then, it looks like I'm stuck driving the BMW. I guess its alright accept for remembering to take my turns 15 mph slower. Thanks guys.
-Dave

MakoDHardie

I started the car up tonight and I was smelling gas from inside. Does that have anything to do with the effects of this check valve being blown?

spooledUP7

Could be another problem. Worst case your Pulsation dampner just took a poop, and your going to catch on fire. Best case, you are just paranoid and never noticed that the 7s are cold blooded fuel burners on start up.
That check valve is the black and green one which is for the pressure tank. You could still get boost transition to secondary if your vacuum side of the TCA is working well, granted it will not be as reactive if both pressure and vacuum were working it. Get a help check valve until you order a better one. You should notice some nice power gains.

MakoDHardie

Hey guys. I stuck my check valve in today. Ordered the one online- same part I listed above. No gas smell...or else I wasn't suffering from paranoia today. Felt like the engine had deffinitely recovered from a cold. I haven't driven it hard because I had a tire patched and there's 8 psi less in the front left corner of the car, so it feels like **** just driving around the parking lot. I'll be putting in my torque brace tomorrow and I'll get some more air in the tire. Let you know how the secondary treats me. Thanks again.

One word of advice.... if you're replacing the original valves...don't twist them out or they will break off and you will have difficulty getting the ends of them out of the vacuum tubes. I ended up crunching the plastic ends inside the hose with a pair of pliers and then sliding them out with a little screw driver. If anybody wants, I'll take a digital shot of the new valve installed and put it up, but I'm having computer trouble on my work computer, so I might not get it up for a while. I'm really thinking about replacing the rest of those valves underneath there too though. Always better to avoid having to fix problems rather than wait until they become a problem to have to fix. Thanks again guys.
-Dave