what happens if u remove the airpump???noob question i know...

 

You diiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiie and your car explooooooooooooooooooooooodes!!!!

KABOOOOOOOM

I'm tired.

:[

 

u will be sent to a smog ref since ur in cali lol.

 

You save money to pass emissions bcz ur a fellow californian

 

It will make the exhaust a bit dirtier. The difference is not that noticable (smell level), IMO, but it is probably enough to fail the sniffer part of a SMOG test. However, you would fail the SMOG visual inspection even if you pass the sniffer.

Some folks claim that it can cause the main cat to clog or fail. But the effect is not immediate, and I am not sure this is really true anyway. Many people run the main cat or a high-flow replacement without the air pump and have no problems.

Idle quality may suffer. I am not exactly sure what causes the idle to become less stable after removing the air pump (lack of load? some kind of electrical signal messing things up?), but this issue seems to be real. However, it can be pretty minor, and I never minded the slight difference on my car after removing the air pump.

-Max

 

And other than weight saving and the addition of some nice space under the hood, I don't think there is any significant performance gain. If you've got emissions, it may not be worth it.

 

Idle quality and throttle response are affected when the airpump is removed on the stock or chipped ECU. The ACV lets air into the exhaust manifold prior to the O2 sensor and without this extra air in the exhaust stream the computer thinks the car is running rich, and leans it out way too much. I don't know why everyone says their cars run rich after the airpump is removed, maybe it does smell a lot worse. But a few people have verified the lean condition with widieband AFR gauges.

I haven't personally disabled the airpump on my car to test the effects, but some people say it is fine while others had to hook it back up immediately.

 

you get more room in the engine bay...

 

I failed my emissions here in the UK, couldn't work out why until I found out that the air pump was disconnected. Rigged it back up and passed with flying colours. With the extra air going into the system the idle went up so had to adjust that back down again, no real problem there.

From what I know the air pump only runs under 3000rpm (or was that 2500?) and helps smooth out the lower range, once I had it running again the car drives much more nicely at slower speeds...an example of this is when you're in 2nd or 3rd gear and let of the gas so the car slows, without the pump working the car will jerk a bit under deceleration, with the pump it's just fine.

Personally I'd leave it on until you get an aftermarket ECU so you can map everything properly.

 

Here's a quick question, if you removed the airpump and ran a tuned Powerfc or any other ECU, would you still run into idling problems? My guess is you wouldn't because you are managing the air:fuel ratios manually.

 

No problems there.

 

Yes you can tune around it.

 

Well I'll throw my noob air pump question into this thread.

I plan on putting a midpipe on soon and was wondering, can I just leave the airpump unconnected or do I have to remove the thing? I already have a PFC and catback and the car will soon have a different radiator & intercooler and intakes.

I'd prefer to leave it on the car since I don't see why it needs to be removed. Also I don't have to pass emissions yet but you never know when they might pass that dumb ****.

 

You can leave it on, itll just be disconnected by the mp where it connected to the cat, thats how i had mine for awhile before i ripped it out

 

I don't know of a reason that you would HAVE TO remove it, but I doubt it would be that difficult to put back on. IMHO, the best reason for leaving it on would be for the pulley. It would leave you sufficient contact for the waterpump without having to buy an aftermarket pulley assembly.

 

^ good point, water pump belt contact is reduced substantially when you remove the air pump

-Max

 

That worries me. I don't have my air-pump plugged in, even though the rest of it is hooked up.

Could that explain why my car MIGHT be running lean at only 10psi with a simple non-seq. setup, intake, dp, and catback?

I need to try plugging it back in and check AFR's.

 

It should only make the engine run lean during idle and low load cruising under 3000 rpm. Under boost where AFR's are the most important, you should be fine since the ECU doesn't use O2 feedback then.

 

I'm trying to find an answer to this small hesitation I get @ 10psi where the car doesn't JERK, like, fuel-cut kinda jerk, but it feels comparable to if your motor was cold and running rich, and your spark plugs cause you to stutter...more like that.

I need to do plugs...it's just been so damn cold and I had to work today when it was actually nice outside.

 

^ hahahahahaaa. I saw this at 6 a.m. and this is halirious! ahaha