What gauges do I need?
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What gauges do I need?
Hey guys just wanted to know what gauges I need in order to make sure the car doesn't over heat, blow-up etc..
Mods are on a 1993 Touring with New REMAN engine:
Pettit Racing Intake
Pettit DP
Pettit CB
Pettit ECU
Fuel Pump
3MM Seals
Greddy Profec B
Greddy Turbo Timer
I have no idea which ones I need so please help !!
Mods are on a 1993 Touring with New REMAN engine:
Pettit Racing Intake
Pettit DP
Pettit CB
Pettit ECU
Fuel Pump
3MM Seals
Greddy Profec B
Greddy Turbo Timer
I have no idea which ones I need so please help !!
#3
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get a new temp guage....... the one on your fd wont even tell you that your engine is overheating until fire is already coming out...... i found out the hard way
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only decent (accurate) a/f gauge is the very costly greddy unit. the autometers are more fun lights than anything, even when they are linearized and recalibrated. at least from what ive seen and heard.....
i would get boost, water temp and then if you start pushing the boost harder i would get an EGT and fuel pressure gauge to make sure that fuel pressure isnt falling off at higher RPM and your pump is working well.
i would get boost, water temp and then if you start pushing the boost harder i would get an EGT and fuel pressure gauge to make sure that fuel pressure isnt falling off at higher RPM and your pump is working well.
#7
I bought an Autometer boost gauge and compared with a couple of other gauges and it was dead on. I can't speak for their other gauges. I would buy a nicer one if you could afford one, but the Autometer is better than no gauge at all.
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#8
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EGT is usually more accurate and a better tool for reading lean or rich conditions. id rather know that i got 1500*F at WOT in 3rd gear than 3 little green lights....
know what i mean???
know what i mean???
#9
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WATER TEMP is a must. The stock one isn't even close to telling you if you're cooking your engine or not.
Boost next...VERY important to know what your turbo is doing
Exhaust Temp...gotta make sure you're exhaust temp's in the right range.
Fuel Pressure...better be safe than blown engine.
Oil Pressure...I like to know when it's time to change my oil.
Oil Temp...I don't know why I got this one...
Tach...I don't need the Tach...just the shiftlite.
Boost next...VERY important to know what your turbo is doing
Exhaust Temp...gotta make sure you're exhaust temp's in the right range.
Fuel Pressure...better be safe than blown engine.
Oil Pressure...I like to know when it's time to change my oil.
Oil Temp...I don't know why I got this one...
Tach...I don't need the Tach...just the shiftlite.
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damn thats a lot, where do you guys mount all these god damn things.
I am gonna go with:
Boost Gauge
Temp Gauge
Air/Fuel Gauge
Oil Pressur Gauge- Do i really need this one??
Also I think I am gonna get ALL Greddy ones since we get Greddy products really cheap through our company. any other brands i should try?
I am gonna go with:
Boost Gauge
Temp Gauge
Air/Fuel Gauge
Oil Pressur Gauge- Do i really need this one??
Also I think I am gonna get ALL Greddy ones since we get Greddy products really cheap through our company. any other brands i should try?
#13
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DON'T get the Greddy Gauge's. They work great, but for every gauge that you install, you need an individual control unit. That means more wiring, and more stuff to install.
The Defi unit is the SH*T!!!! You install ONE control unit, and just add the sensor to it when you get it(if you get it). Both the GREDDY and the Defi gauges use the same sensors.
Defi does NOT make an air/fuel gauge however, so a Greddy Gauge is must.
E.G.T. is Exhaust Gas Temperature. It will give you a reading on whether your engine is running lean/rich w/o using an air/fuel gauge.
The Defi unit is the SH*T!!!! You install ONE control unit, and just add the sensor to it when you get it(if you get it). Both the GREDDY and the Defi gauges use the same sensors.
Defi does NOT make an air/fuel gauge however, so a Greddy Gauge is must.
E.G.T. is Exhaust Gas Temperature. It will give you a reading on whether your engine is running lean/rich w/o using an air/fuel gauge.
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damn the Greddy Gauges are a GRIP!!
The Autometer ones are much cheaper but if they don't work well then I don't want them..
Where Can I get DEFI gauges and if I get a EGT I'll still need a Air/Fuel Correct?
The Autometer ones are much cheaper but if they don't work well then I don't want them..
Where Can I get DEFI gauges and if I get a EGT I'll still need a Air/Fuel Correct?
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Also I only want like max 4 gauges in there, I'm gonna use the Dual Gauge Pod on the pillar and the new tripoint Speaker Pod for the other two so that the car still looks somewhat clean with all these gauges
#17
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Originally posted by importadrenelin
damn the Greddy Gauges are a GRIP!!
The Autometer ones are much cheaper but if they don't work well then I don't want them..
Where Can I get DEFI gauges and if I get a EGT I'll still need a Air/Fuel Correct?
damn the Greddy Gauges are a GRIP!!
The Autometer ones are much cheaper but if they don't work well then I don't want them..
Where Can I get DEFI gauges and if I get a EGT I'll still need a Air/Fuel Correct?
#18
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Here's my setup:
http://www.geocities.com/nathan356/mycargauges.html
VDO is a very good value and look close to stock, although they could be better on accuracy. The J&S is expensive but if you want to take reliability to the nth degree, its tough to beat. It won't necessarily save your engine if you ignore it, but the readout is very very sensitive. It'll detect a bad tank of gas as well as other problems that cause miniscule amounts of detonation that you otherwise would miss. The A/F moniter on the other hand, isn't that great. I'm not sure how it is compared to the Greddy, but under normal driving conditions, the computer pulses the A/F back and forth rich/lean rich/lean, the sensor picks this up and so the lights just bounce back and forth. At WOT, its 1 or 2 lights full rich, even on the less sensitive setting. At the sensitive setting WOT is off the scale entirely.
http://www.geocities.com/nathan356/mycargauges.html
VDO is a very good value and look close to stock, although they could be better on accuracy. The J&S is expensive but if you want to take reliability to the nth degree, its tough to beat. It won't necessarily save your engine if you ignore it, but the readout is very very sensitive. It'll detect a bad tank of gas as well as other problems that cause miniscule amounts of detonation that you otherwise would miss. The A/F moniter on the other hand, isn't that great. I'm not sure how it is compared to the Greddy, but under normal driving conditions, the computer pulses the A/F back and forth rich/lean rich/lean, the sensor picks this up and so the lights just bounce back and forth. At WOT, its 1 or 2 lights full rich, even on the less sensitive setting. At the sensitive setting WOT is off the scale entirely.
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picture
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...2ad60000000410
the little red "thing" is an LCD that shows the O2 sensor voltage to .001 accuracy of the sensor - but the sensor is not really of great worth....
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...2ad60000000410
the little red "thing" is an LCD that shows the O2 sensor voltage to .001 accuracy of the sensor - but the sensor is not really of great worth....
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