What FD reliability mods required?
#1
What FD reliability mods required?
I might be getting an FD in about 5 months, so im researching here a little bit. Basically I need to know what kind of mods would I need to do on my FD if I were to put on basic bolt ons. Lets say full exhaust, and intake to start with. Then lets say later on I decide to get a turbo upgrades. Maybe the stage 3 BNR turbos or a single T66. I already have a wolf3d V.4 stand alone my FC, which I would probably swap over to the FD. So with mods like that what would be required to upgrade to keep the car in reliable condition?
#3
Do it right, do it once
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Search lots covered in this subject here.
Full exhaust is NOT a reliability mod, intake isn't either.
DP, AST replacement, H2O temp guage. Boost guage is nice to have but running low boost isn't a reliability issue, it is more of good diagnosis tool.
Adding HP isn't reliabilty mod.
At this point many FDs just need to be gone through, more like maintenence on a 10-13yr old car. Hoses, belts, filters, plug wires, fluids, bushings, cleaning, etc.
Dale Clark has documented a lot of things that just help the car *feel* good when driving it. Things that most people overlook but really make the difference between a POS and a NICE car.
Full exhaust is NOT a reliability mod, intake isn't either.
DP, AST replacement, H2O temp guage. Boost guage is nice to have but running low boost isn't a reliability issue, it is more of good diagnosis tool.
Adding HP isn't reliabilty mod.
At this point many FDs just need to be gone through, more like maintenence on a 10-13yr old car. Hoses, belts, filters, plug wires, fluids, bushings, cleaning, etc.
Dale Clark has documented a lot of things that just help the car *feel* good when driving it. Things that most people overlook but really make the difference between a POS and a NICE car.
#5
Originally Posted by turbojeff
...Full exhaust is NOT a reliability mod, intake isn't either...Adding HP isn't reliabilty mod...
I've been a mechanic for a couple of years at a shop before I went to college, so I know about looking for stock parts that need to be replaced. I wasn't asking about that, anyone with a brain knows that cars need to be tuned up.
#6
Moderator
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Originally Posted by Net Seven
I've been a mechanic for a couple of years at a shop before I went to college, so I know about looking for stock parts that need to be replaced. I wasn't asking about that, anyone with a brain knows that cars need to be tuned up.
The thread by Jimlab in the Newbie sticky is excellent material.
Dave
#7
Do it right, do it once
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Originally Posted by Net Seven
Well duh, I never said it was. I'm asking what modifications are required to keep the car reliable with these power increases. I named a few mods that I might be performing on the car, so I was asking what other mods are needed to keep the car in good reliable shape. Such as upgrading the radiator, fuel pump, injectors.
I've been a mechanic for a couple of years at a shop before I went to college, so I know about looking for stock parts that need to be replaced. I wasn't asking about that, anyone with a brain knows that cars need to be tuned up.
I've been a mechanic for a couple of years at a shop before I went to college, so I know about looking for stock parts that need to be replaced. I wasn't asking about that, anyone with a brain knows that cars need to be tuned up.
I wasn't insulting, don't think you needed to be.
I think you'd have more reliable power by sticking with a PFC, but I'm not a tuner either.
Post up a question in the single turbo section. You also should mention HP goals, they have a lot to do with mods required. No power goals mentioned, why would you need BNR twins?
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#10
I NEVER said they were reliablity mods, when did I say that? Even on my 2nd post I said I didnt say they were. Man! ****... holy crap. I'm done here.
Yes I was a mechanic. Yes i built my FC up from the ground. Yes I rebuilt and ported the engine, yes I did the wolf3d wiring job on it, I even tuned it, everything to every last detail was done by me. I would never take it to a shop because I worked at one and know how sometimes work is done half-assed when in a hurry. So I dont know what your problem is Dave.
Yes I was a mechanic. Yes i built my FC up from the ground. Yes I rebuilt and ported the engine, yes I did the wolf3d wiring job on it, I even tuned it, everything to every last detail was done by me. I would never take it to a shop because I worked at one and know how sometimes work is done half-assed when in a hurry. So I dont know what your problem is Dave.
Last edited by Net Seven; 04-07-05 at 06:50 PM.
#12
Yes I looked, and found what i was looking for. Thank you, but the other **** such as like this below was not needed. Then turbojeff for some strange reason keeps thinking that im saying exhaust and intake are reliablity mods, when I dont. I was clearly asking what is needed to upkeep the car WITH those mods. Like on a TII when exhuast you need to upgrade the fuel pump.
Unfortunately, history in this forum indicates otherwise. Welcome.
The thread by Jimlab in the Newbie sticky is excellent material.
Dave
The thread by Jimlab in the Newbie sticky is excellent material.
Dave
#14
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Man this topic is getting out of control . And the person who started it isnt a very nice person. Your topic is throwing off everyone off is the main thing. Basically get a stand alone , upgrade fuel when go single and boost anything high (i had a td06 and my fuel was doing alright but probably couldnt handle over 15psi) , some turbo's can get away with it but only small turbos. All you need is fuel and a standalone to prog it to keep it running nice and rich
Last edited by Gibenstein; 04-07-05 at 07:17 PM.
#15
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This thread kind of got off on the wrong foot. Here's my opinion on reliability mods...
Replace AST with aluminum version or eliminate
Bigger all aluminum radiator (optionally switch to Evans NPG+ coolant)
Eliminate first cat with stainless down pipe
silicone hose job + Dale Clarks Viton check valves + Efini Y-Pipe or single turbo
Add ground wires (and clean stock grounds)
ECU upgrade + good tune $
intercooler $
vented hood $
FC thermoswitch and fan mod (Not necessary with bigger Al radiator & NPG+ IMHO)
And of course maintenance. Especially coolant hoses around turbos, fpd, and cleaning injectors often.
Replace AST with aluminum version or eliminate
Bigger all aluminum radiator (optionally switch to Evans NPG+ coolant)
Eliminate first cat with stainless down pipe
silicone hose job + Dale Clarks Viton check valves + Efini Y-Pipe or single turbo
Add ground wires (and clean stock grounds)
ECU upgrade + good tune $
intercooler $
vented hood $
FC thermoswitch and fan mod (Not necessary with bigger Al radiator & NPG+ IMHO)
And of course maintenance. Especially coolant hoses around turbos, fpd, and cleaning injectors often.
#16
Originally Posted by Matt Hey
This thread kind of got off on the wrong foot. Here's my opinion on reliability mods...
Replace AST with aluminum version or eliminate
Bigger all aluminum radiator (optionally switch to Evans NPG+ coolant)
Eliminate first cat with stainless down pipe
silicone hose job + Dale Clarks Viton check valves + Efini Y-Pipe or single turbo
Add ground wires (and clean stock grounds)
ECU upgrade + good tune $
intercooler $
vented hood $
FC thermoswitch and fan mod (Not necessary with bigger Al radiator & NPG+ IMHO)
And of course maintenance. Especially coolant hoses around turbos, fpd, and cleaning injectors often.
Replace AST with aluminum version or eliminate
Bigger all aluminum radiator (optionally switch to Evans NPG+ coolant)
Eliminate first cat with stainless down pipe
silicone hose job + Dale Clarks Viton check valves + Efini Y-Pipe or single turbo
Add ground wires (and clean stock grounds)
ECU upgrade + good tune $
intercooler $
vented hood $
FC thermoswitch and fan mod (Not necessary with bigger Al radiator & NPG+ IMHO)
And of course maintenance. Especially coolant hoses around turbos, fpd, and cleaning injectors often.
Sorry about getting a little pissed earlier, I dont like being called a newbie after all the work i've done on cars. I was just asking to see how much more the fuel and coolant system can be pushed before it needs to be upgraded.
Thanks
#18
Potato Love
REplace the turbo coolant lines. Out of sight and out of mind.
Replace the fuel filter. Most Mazda mechanics are too lazy. Just have some quarter inch deepwells. Can't remember what size.
Replace the fuel filter. Most Mazda mechanics are too lazy. Just have some quarter inch deepwells. Can't remember what size.
#19
don't race, don't need to
The title of your thread was reliability mods. Ergo, the reader would assume the things you list would be in the reliability vein. To whit, Jeff was mentioning that two of the items you listed did not fit within the scope of a reliability discussion, especially as regards this automobile. His intention was not to be rude, rather to intimate that those items were not in the same milieu as the replacement of work/heat hardened hoses, brittle plastic, and worn metal, often due to mis-treatment at the hands of those who had good intentions. Indeed, those two modifications, in absentia other efforts on a worn example, will lead to engine replacement. Soon.
That said, take a look for some of the work Jeff's been involved with. He can legitimately claim to have detailed undestanding of the underside of the lower windshield mounting metal, let alone radiator, all fluids regardless the sellers bullshit statements, fan mod, temp gauge replacement (or linearization), battery relocation (to quit puking acid on the weak plastic radiator endtanks), all hoses regardless location, injectors cleaned, electrical system tested, secondary air injection system tested (I can't recall if Puyallup is in King Co or not?), ECU checked for error codes, Precats replaced with downpipe, main cat checked for cracking/separation, shifter checked for tearing of the rubber seal, ball joints checked for play, front sway bar mounts checked for bent/cracked welds, oil leaks inspected and sourced...
Not trying to be an ***, just sticking up for a friend-ish guy who helps
That said, take a look for some of the work Jeff's been involved with. He can legitimately claim to have detailed undestanding of the underside of the lower windshield mounting metal, let alone radiator, all fluids regardless the sellers bullshit statements, fan mod, temp gauge replacement (or linearization), battery relocation (to quit puking acid on the weak plastic radiator endtanks), all hoses regardless location, injectors cleaned, electrical system tested, secondary air injection system tested (I can't recall if Puyallup is in King Co or not?), ECU checked for error codes, Precats replaced with downpipe, main cat checked for cracking/separation, shifter checked for tearing of the rubber seal, ball joints checked for play, front sway bar mounts checked for bent/cracked welds, oil leaks inspected and sourced...
Not trying to be an ***, just sticking up for a friend-ish guy who helps
#20
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Originally Posted by Larz
REplace the turbo coolant lines. Out of sight and out of mind.
Replace the fuel filter. Most Mazda mechanics are too lazy. Just have some quarter inch deepwells. Can't remember what size.
Replace the fuel filter. Most Mazda mechanics are too lazy. Just have some quarter inch deepwells. Can't remember what size.
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#23
~17 MPG
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from FAQ for 3rd Gen & other useful Links:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
R
Reliability Mods:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/want-buy-3rd-gen-need-reliabilty-mod-help-41513/
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/stages.html
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/need-questions-answered-experienced-3rd-gen-owners-27053/ << read the post by jimlab
http://www.turborx7.com/recomend.htm
Reliability mods / $1000 to spend
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/
Think of the FD as being similar to a Turbo II , but with more heat produced by the turbos, a cooling system that's already near its limit at stock power levels, and a likewise less-than-ideal intercooler setup. That is part of how Mazda made the car weigh 200 pounds less.
-s-
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
R
Reliability Mods:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/want-buy-3rd-gen-need-reliabilty-mod-help-41513/
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/stages.html
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/need-questions-answered-experienced-3rd-gen-owners-27053/ << read the post by jimlab
http://www.turborx7.com/recomend.htm
Reliability mods / $1000 to spend
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/
Think of the FD as being similar to a Turbo II , but with more heat produced by the turbos, a cooling system that's already near its limit at stock power levels, and a likewise less-than-ideal intercooler setup. That is part of how Mazda made the car weigh 200 pounds less.
-s-
#24
Moderator
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Originally Posted by scotty305
Think of the FD as being similar to a Turbo II , but with more heat produced by the turbos, a cooling system that's already near its limit at stock power levels, and a likewise less-than-ideal intercooler setup. That is part of how Mazda made the car weigh 200 pounds less.
-s-
Dave
#25
RAWR
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Originally Posted by Net Seven
Yes I looked, and found what i was looking for. Thank you, but the other **** such as like this below was not needed. Then turbojeff for some strange reason keeps thinking that im saying exhaust and intake are reliablity mods, when I dont. I was clearly asking what is needed to upkeep the car WITH those mods. Like on a TII when exhuast you need to upgrade the fuel pump.
dude, chill out, jeff is probably the most expierenced rotary owner (whether it's FB, FC, or FD) on this forum. if there is anyone you shouldn't argue with about rotarys, it's Jeff. for other topics, don't start arguing with JimLab, that guy knows more than half of the forum combined. his comment about the intake and full exhaust wern't to rip you apart, he was just stating that they aren't reliability mods. if you put a full exhaust on a stock FD, you need a stand alone. and what he was saying about having a PFC and you'll have a more reliable car, from what i've gathered the vast majority of tuners use the PFC, and the Wolf is very rarely used with the FD (someone correct me if i'm wrong here). the FD is very different from a T2 with it's induction system. You could get away with little tuning mistakes (yes, everyone makes mistakes their first time doing something, not trying to make fun of you, it's a fact of life, no human is perfect) with the T2 because it has a MAF sensor. the FD has a MAP sensor, and if something just slightly goes wrong with fuel delivery, kiss your motor, and possibly your turbos good bye.