Snook

iTrader: (12)

I searched and couldn't find exactly what it is. Most people had the actual code 11.

Here is the code I pulled tonight after getting home:
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)

11 is Intake air thermosensor (engine) which I believe is the sensor with the blue connector under the uim.

AFM stands for air flow meter. We don't have an air flow meter right it's a map system not maf. But code 13 is for pressure sensor which is the map sensor.

thanks any help is greatly appreciated.
-Snook

twinturboy

You may have read the wrong code. I would double check the flashes once more. According to the service manual, there is no code 10. You are correct that code 11 is the thermosensor under the UIM. I have gotten code 11 before and replaced with a new sensor to fix the problem.

twinturboy

I believe code 10 could be for a 2nd gen, since this webpage says for 88 and up. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/engine_codes.html

Snook

iTrader: (12)

I am pretty sure I read it right.
I knew that code 11 was AIT before I went to pull the code so I doubt checked the code about 5 times. The engine light would be on when the car starts like normal, then go off for about 2 seconds and come back one and stay.

What are some symptoms caused by a bad intake thermosensor?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I have the SAME problem...but my engine check light goes and comes as it pleases. Really weird, never actually figured it out.

Any body else has this problem??

mad_7tist

WHAT IS THE CODE? 11? have you pulled it?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Did you read the first post...CODE 10, nothing else.

I'm thinking the ECU might be screwed up...when I had my knock sensor disconnected once, the ECL came on, but I only got CODE 10 again. It's probably not a code but some sort of a malfunction!?

mad_7tist

how many flashes did it make? long or short?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

One long flash...just like described above...

Just goes away for about 2 sec...then comes back on and stays on.

mad_7tist

so you jump the diag connector and get one long flash and then a steady engine light?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Yup, I've jumped maybe 15 times....always same code. Usually the Engine check light does not come onwhen I drive, only once in a while when it's in the mood I guess.

Again, I don't think it's an actual code because it's always the same even when I trip a code on purpose...I always get the same "one long flash".

My question:

Does this sound like it's a malfunction from the ECU??

Thanks.

mad_7tist

does the cel continue doing one long flash followed by one long flash or does it flash and stay steady on?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Flash once and stay on...it does not recycle the code.

mad_7tist

i dont think that is right. it should recycle the codes. till you take the jumper out. i think the 1 long flash is a wiring issue maybe a short in the ecu wiring or maybe the diag connector. are all the ecu plugs in tight? i belive that is indicitive of some fault but i would have to check.

daem0n

Has anyone jumped a normal working car? If there is a code it should be recycled. Sounds like either a problem with the diagnostics or maybe there is no code?

mad_7tist

just for the hell of it this is def not a good thing. on a car with no codes the light will come on steady and then shut off with the diag box jumed. with a code it will recycle the code or codes until you remove the jumper. i have never heard of this before anyone have any experience with it? hey panda when you cleared your "code" did the light go off? how did it drive? did the light ever go off by itself without you clearing it?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

The light comes and goes as it pleases...sometimes it's on for a couple seconds, sometimes it stays on for 30 minutes.

Right now it's not present, but it came on the other day for a few seconds.

I should try jumping it when there is no CEL present...I'll let you know what happens.

Enconsiderate

panda/ snook

there maybe no code at all! try this:

disconnect the neg. side of the battery and while the battery is disconnected go step on the brake pedal. keep pedal depressed for about 10-15 sec. reconnect the battery and drive around. i doubt you will see that code come back up.

if this doesn't work maybe you should take it to your mechanic

good luck

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Encon, I've tried it a billion times, resetting the computer does nothing. The light keeps on coming back...

To be honest, it doesn't really bother me much...I've learned to deal with it, but recently I've had weird problems with the Engine running rich when it wants to, so I've been trying to find a connection.

By the way, How's the Gotham short shifter I see in your sig...I was thinking of buying one this week.

DMRH

Just checked the books.

Series-5 RX-7 (89-91) - Code-10 = Air Flow Meter, temp sensor
JC Cosmo (90-95) - Code-10 = Air flow meter, temp sensor

Series-6 RX-7 (92-95) - Code-10 = not listed

Is your ECU from a JDM series-7 (96-98) or series-8 (99-02).....???

I have the series-8 book lying around somewhere. Despite being in Japanese. If your ECU is different, I can check the S8 book & see if they put a code-10 in there

Find what your ECU says it is & post it.

EG. Jap spec series-6 = N3A1
EG. Jap spec series-7 = N3F1
EG. Jap spec series-8 = N3G1

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

N3A1...

Dmrh...I appreciate the help, but it doesn't seem to be a "code"...more like a malfunction because even if I take out the knock sensor for example, I get the same thing. It does not give me real codes whatsoever...

I think I'm going to try to swap the computer, but I feel it's pointless since I'm going to get a PFC soon.

Enconsiderate

Doh! I figured you tried resetting the ecu but thought it wouldn't hurt to suggest.

"learn to deal with it" ahhhhh the words of a true fd owner.

good luck...


i pm'd you about the shifter. i dont want to completely highjack this thread.

mad_7tist

yea it sounds like a falut with the diagnostics. like i said with no code the light should come on for 3 sec and then go out when you jump the ten and gnd. maybe a loose connector on the ecu, wire short near the diag box. i wonder what a scan tool will show. maybe a trip to mazda would be a good idea in this sitution. let them see if they can view any data/codes. are you sure the ecu fuse is good and in?

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

CODE PROBLEM SOLVED!! Thought I'd put an end to this mystery finally...

Well, I had some other issues with my boost that was caused by my faulty ECU...pretty rare I guess, but it caused me to swap out the ECU. Anyway, car runs great but I still got CEL after driving for a while as usual, but this time I'm on a DIFFERENT ECU...Soooo, I pull over, jump the Ten and Ground pins real quick, hoping I get a code this time, and WALLA, code 11. Damn Air Intake Thermosensor...that explains why it ran a bit rich everytime the sucker came on.

In conclusion...if you have the same problem I did...(not being able to get any codes out of the ECU) then it's most probably the ECU. Swap it out...