3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

What else do I need to build a dual oilcooler setup

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-28-06, 03:33 PM
  #76  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Could you use a clamp anyway? Just so its easier to sleep at night.
Old 11-28-06, 05:03 PM
  #77  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
I've read only bad reports about the clamps...(the tool is rather expensive, iirc)

The reports are of hoses tearing under the barbed rib, due to improper use of the tool and improper placement of the band. Even when I talked to Silvr94r2, he said the bands weren't necessary (the shop he deals with builds some wicked fast cars). As you can see though, he did use clamps, but his car isn't running as of yet.

if anyone has success with the clamps please chime in


The real expensive tool (I've seen in aircraft wire harness fab - $1000+ for EMI shielding) by band-it had to be certified every 6 months but wasn't clamped on a large ribbed area like a barb.
Old 11-28-06, 05:25 PM
  #78  
Senior Member

 
SilvioRX7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Does anyone know which side of the stock oil cooler, the line from the front cover goes to? I'm doing braided line, but I forgot which side is which and don't have my stock lines anymore.
Old 11-28-06, 07:18 PM
  #79  
Speed Mach Go Go Go

iTrader: (2)
 
GoRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I don't like steel braided lines. They are not needed. You can get nylon braided that handle more heat and have the same 350psi burst strength. I don't beleive we go over 100psi.

Sorry I don't remember the OEM thermastat but this may help (others):
Spring side = Send to oil cooler (from front cover)
Rod side = Return to block (via oil filter)
Old 11-28-06, 07:35 PM
  #80  
Lives on the Forum

 
rynberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
I don't beleive we go over 100psi.
You are very wrong. At redline, the oil pressure should be in the 100-120 psi range. Spiking above this may and does occur, especially when jumping on the throttle when the engine oil is cooler.
Old 11-29-06, 12:32 AM
  #81  
Searching for 10th's

iTrader: (11)
 
jkstill's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 2,247
Received 29 Likes on 18 Posts
socketless hose

Originally Posted by rynberg
You are very wrong. At redline, the oil pressure should be in the 100-120 psi range. Spiking above this may and does occur, especially when jumping on the throttle when the engine oil is cooler.
Googling for ( aeroquip socketless hose review ) turns up a few hits.

One good discussion here:
http://forums.atlasf1.com/showthread.php?threadid=90374

It seems fairly common to use the socketless hose in high pressure fuel and oil systems.

I just spoke with a friend this evening that has used it for high pressure fuel lines, he tought it worked well - no leaks.
Old 11-29-06, 09:19 AM
  #82  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I haven't even looked at the connections on the engine side, but can you attach the socketless hose ends to the fittings there? I have no idea if they're male/female or what, but all the hose ends on the website are female that I see.
Old 11-29-06, 09:23 AM
  #83  
Mr. Links

iTrader: (1)
 
Mahjik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 27,595
Received 41 Likes on 26 Posts
Originally Posted by airborne
I haven't even looked at the connections on the engine side, but can you attach the socketless hose ends to the fittings there? I have no idea if they're male/female or what, but all the hose ends on the website are female that I see.
You would have to change the connections on the engine side. The engine side basically used banjo bolts so you would need an adapter instead. I didn't want to change the stock banjo setup so I had some custom lines made to go from the banjos to AN fittings.
Old 11-29-06, 09:38 AM
  #84  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can't tell from the pics I have, is that how all the kits do it as well? Custom lines?

whats your plan dubulup?
Old 11-29-06, 10:12 AM
  #85  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
most kits use these
Originally Posted by dubulup
adapter (front cover and oil pedestal)
FCM2245 metric adapter -10AN to 18mm X 1.5
$8.82 ea. x2 $17.64
These need either a crush washer or an o-ring...not sure which I'll use yet. I used an o-ring on the turbo feed line for the last two years with no issues.
Old 11-29-06, 10:21 AM
  #86  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That was on the first page. This project seems too simple.

Old 11-29-06, 10:24 AM
  #87  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
^it is. Some of my parts are on back order...should ship by Friday.

You are using a single cooler correct? Are you finished with your radiator project?
Old 11-29-06, 10:30 AM
  #88  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Its moving along. I got a picture from rallimike, the forum member who's setup I'm basing mine from -he shouldn't mind me posting it. here it goes, those are oil coolers on the bottom. The IC behind them, 2 custom griffin rads where the oil coolers are stock and then the AC condenser is laid flat...somewhere.




I'm doing it with a stock front end and rads from an R6 bike.


Oh, and I may end up using 2 coolers. rallimike couldn't find one in the size he wanted -wide enough i imagine- which is why he used two.
Old 11-29-06, 10:35 AM
  #89  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Looks like a pretty neat set-up!

The FC cooler is pretty beast! Might have a look into that...which includes a T-stat. Malloy might be able to source rather cheap?!?!
Old 11-29-06, 10:38 AM
  #90  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I flipped through dozens of pages of oil coolers at summit without much luck finding one ridiculously wide and 6-8in tall.

The only thing I know about the OCs in that setup is that they're Setrabs.
Old 11-29-06, 11:03 AM
  #91  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts


I know this doesn't give a good size, but I can't find a real picture
Old 11-29-06, 11:14 AM
  #92  
King of the Duct Tape

 
airborne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2nd gen thread

Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"

The fittings may be -12 AN, there is a parts list there that lists reducers.

oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?
Old 11-29-06, 11:20 AM
  #93  
Lives on the Forum

 
DamonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dallas
Posts: 9,617
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Originally Posted by dubulup
I used an o-ring on the turbo feed line for the last two years with no issues.
I've done the same. I was concerned about using a crush washer since my adaptor is aluminum and I was concerned I may strip it when torqued. A rubber o-ring has sealed fine for a couple years now and doesn't require near as much torque on the fitting.
Old 11-29-06, 11:48 AM
  #94  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by airborne
oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?
the question is...why did the FD come with such a small cooler?!? Weight maybe? I was blown away the first time I saw the FC cooler.
Originally Posted by DamonB
I've done the same. I was concerned about using a crush washer since my adaptor is aluminum and I was concerned I may strip it when torqued. A rubber o-ring has sealed fine for a couple years now and doesn't require near as much torque on the fitting.
good to know...thanks
Old 12-02-06, 08:35 PM
  #95  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by airborne
Thanks, i bookmarked it and will just have to check back periodically.

are the 1/8 npt ports compatible with the hardware most gauges include? or do you need an adapter from HDR?
Just wanted to update you on the pedestals. Should be ready to ship in a week to week and a half. Yes, the tapped ports will accept any 1/8th NPT guage fitting.

-billy
Old 12-14-06, 08:54 PM
  #96  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
^good news!

just wanted to show some dirty install pics...I finally got some parts, and began the install...I only made three mounts (make all six for $20 in parts...which brings my total to $760) It's pretty study with enough bounce/give.

Although, I will have to change the (4) 90's on the coolers for 180's (which is a big change in loot) and I'll probably take DamonB's advice and move the left (outside) fitting(s) on the cooler to the bottom on the side, which will run to the driveside cooler.

I thought I'd be able to mount the cooler upside down, but I forgot to take into account the park lamps.



here is the outside mount (you can see the cooler slants a little back)



Then two on the inside



with the bumper



even though you can see only about a 1/3 of the rows thru the duct...there isn't much room for air to get around the cooler once inside. I'm excited.

jeeze my car looks filthy...I'll have to show some detailed pics once I finish the project.
Old 12-15-06, 10:55 AM
  #97  
Lives on the Forum

 
rynberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Although, I will have to change the (4) 90's on the coolers for 180's
dubulup, you won't want 180-deg fittings either.....try 135-deg fittings....
Old 12-15-06, 11:09 AM
  #98  
development

 
dubulup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
I hoped, you'd chime in and tell me if I was doing something wrong.

Thanks for the tip!
Old 12-15-06, 11:17 AM
  #99  
Mr. Links

iTrader: (1)
 
Mahjik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 27,595
Received 41 Likes on 26 Posts
I used 120 degree hose ends for mine. But yea 180 might be a little extreme for what you need.
Old 12-15-06, 11:20 AM
  #100  
Boost Addict

 
GOTBANNED?'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: ajax
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I love this thread, cant wait to build my duel oil cooler setup this winter


Quick Reply: What else do I need to build a dual oilcooler setup



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:47 AM.