rynberg

Correct, I was just being short. Nice diagram. I'll be linking this and a few other threads to the FAQ thread.

pluto

n/m

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

wow. really nice diagram

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

I am currently running RE 25 row Dual Oil Coolers without the thermostat, as this is how I installed it when I put in my rebuilt. (I'm at 1,300 miles on my break-in) Upon startup, it takes about 5 minutes for the oil temps to reach 140 degrees F and it's a pretty choppy startup. The normal operating temps that I see are 160-180 F. The maximum temp that I see is 220 F. Next time I go diving into my engine bay, I'll put the thermostat in, but until then, how harmful is it to my engine?

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

220 is pretty high. i wouldnt be comfortable with temps like that

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

What makes you say that 220F is too hot for oil?

Here is some oil temp info I found in a Mazda competition preparation manual, dated 1980. Note that this is for a non-turbo 12A peripheral port motor in a racing environment:
Warm the engine up at an idle speed of 2000-2500 RPM, until the oil temp reaches 160F (70C).
Recommended oil temperature (oil pan): 195-230F (90-110C).
Max oil temperature: 250F (120C).
Recommended coolant temperature (outlet side): 160-195F (70-90C).
Max coolant temperature: 205F (95C).



-s-

fsae_alum

Every oil cooler setup I have ever seen on here has the inlets/outlets either on the bottom or the top of the oil cooler. Mounting on the bottom means that you run the risk of smacking the fittings off. Running on the top isn't as bad but it means that you can't drain all the oil from the coolers when you change your oil. So the question is this......instead of running a short and wide oil cooler....why not run a tall and narrow oil cooler and mount it 90 degrees such that the inlets and outlets are on the side? Seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Why isn't this done? DamonB....you must know. Are oil coolers even commonly available in this configuration? Just curious......

elfking

On the subject of oil coolers. I have a second driver side oil cooler laying around. If I use this and plumb it up as a second, do I want to remove the T-stat since there will be one in the driver side? I don't mean to thread jack but it looks like the question has been mostly answered..

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

last winter (wisconsin) i acquired a driver's side oil cooler and fixtured it to fit the pass side. i am very happy w the setup. i adapted the pass side duct, straightened the fins on both and for approx $200 of fittings and aeroquip line have what i think is an excellent setup. i did not remove either thermostat. i did put some SS mesh on the face of both coolers after seeing how the fins get mashed.

howard coleman

rynberg

How are you hitting 220F? The hottest I've ever seen in street driving with my RE dual 25-rows is about 200-205F, and that was from sitting in stop-and-go traffic in hot weather. It takes driving on the track for several minutes for my oil temps to get in the 210-215F range. The hottest I've ever seen was 235F oil temps, and that was with my water temp also hitting 235F (running Streets of Willow on a 103F day).

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

I hit 220 F when I let the car sit, idling for about 10 minutes. (Like if i run in the store to grab some ****) Once I get back on the gas and start driving ,the temps drop to 160-175 ish. If I'm cruisin the highway, temps are 140-150. The highest temp I've seen while driving is about 180 F..I was waiting for you to chime in Rynberg, you always make good points....Lemme know what you think...TIA....Ben

rynberg

You leave the car idling for 10 minutes to run into a store? Bad idea! Completely aside from the theft issues, you are just heat soaking the poor car by doing that. Just turn the car off.

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

Theft?....NRG Quick release hub lock! HAHA.....From now on, I'll just turn the car off. I need to install my turbo timer this weekend!...Thanks for your input Rynberg.....Peace

DamonB

Won't make any difference. When you drain the oil you're only draining out what happens to be in the pan at the time. Unless the coolers are mounted really high gravity is never going to empty their contents back into the pan anyhow.

All the coolers people see are merely miscellaneous models; they're not built for a specific application. There's absolutely no reason you couldn't weld over the stock ports in an aftermarket cooler and then weld new bungs onto the tanks in a safer and more convenient orientation for your specific application, but I've never seen anyone smart enough to do it that way even though there's all of these FD specific "kits" offered. There's nothing FD specific about any of the oil cooler kits I've ever seen save Crooked Willow and even then it was just the ducts. Nothing was special about the harware at all (and their method of mounting the thermostat was abysmal).

rynberg

A TT is a waste of money. Not necessary on these cars.

At least with the RE kit, the hoses were all the correct lengths, the proper angle fittings were included, specific brackets were included, and Chuck had custom fittings to go between the lines from the front cover/filter pedestal to the AN lines.

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

As far as oil draining, you can blow through the SS lines and it will get most of the oil out.

DamonB....Where would you suggest mounting the thermostat? Why is it "abysmal?" HAHA....Please elaborate....

DamonB

^ Crooked Willow hung the thermostat right off an elbow fitting screwed into the front cover oil bung. The thermostat was not supported; it just hung out in space from the fitting. This meant that the weight of the thermostat and its hoses was hanging off of a swivel fitting not designed to support that weight. At minimum vibration over time would tend to make the thermostat swivel around. At best the fitting could loosen and leak, weeping oil. At worst the fitting could fatigue and crack, instantly dumping all your oil.

Bolt the thermostat to something solid and dress any flexible oil lines with plenty of Adel clamps so there is no chance of them moving around and chafing through themselves or any other hoses or electrical nearby. Keep in mind the engine moves slightly in its mounts. Leave enough slack in the hoses where they connect to the engine so that they are not stressed.

rynberg

Exactly, I'm surprised they did that. The RE kit connects to the ends of the two soft lines right in front of the engine. Although there is no mounting provision for the t-stat in the RE kit either. You pretty much zip-tie it to the top of the sway bar. Although mine has never moved or done anything bad in 3 years.

airborne

What are the dimensions on the Mocal 25 row?

This is kinda crazy but would an Earl's cooler with 25 rows and a 14 x 7.75 core work?

rynberg

The RE kit uses the Earls coolers....correct size is the 25-row "wide" part number. Part #42510ERL I believe.

airborne

Wow thanks, did you actually have that memorized? That core is 13x7.75 so...using the infallible logic of bigger is better, 14x7.75 would be better.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you can provide enough ducted air to the larger cooler....

rynberg

Earl's doesn't make a 14-inch wide 25-row cooler. The part # I listed has a core of about 9-10" wide. They do make a double-width cooler that has a 14-inch core. It wouldn't fit so don't try it. Use the part # I provided, trust me.

airborne

It seems like they do, unless this is the double wide you mentioned:
summit link

Part #: 82510ERL

Total size is 15.25 x 7.75

I'm not fitting it in the stock locations, I've got about 20in width. Definitley don't want to go over 8in tall.

rynberg

Yep, that's the one. You going center mount somehow? The 42510ERL is about as big as you can fit in the stock locations (width and depth, you can go up to 34-row tall with compromises).