the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I've got the UIM off for some polishing and removal of a few things, my question is what can I remove from it?
It appears that all the block off plates I have go to a few spots.
I think one is the BAC/ISC, but which one, and what are the repercussions of removing all these?
It if helps, I'm single, PFC for ECU and no emissions.
Click the link for a larger picture.

Larger Image

teamstealth

Well, youve got the ISC, AWS, AWS pipe, looks like ur double throttle plates are still in...

The ISC is the uppermost right one, right under the DT. You can remove every single one of them.
-If you remove the AWS, your idle wont pop to 3k everytime u start your car.
-Double throttle is just unneeded restriction if youre capable of not gunning the motor when its cold.
-you CAN remove the ISC, but you will be left to control your idle solely by those little screws.

Ive removed everything and im on the stock ECU because my ISC was sticking/malfunctioning. My idle is totally controlled by that one screw....650 cold, 900 warm!
Hope that helped!

-Zach

jdhuegel1

Here's a start...

Thanks Dave!

jdhuegel1

I have more.... Looking..

jdhuegel1

More...

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Kick @$$!!!
Thank you so much.
Did you leave the gaskets on when you put the block off plates on?
So you don't have any problems controlling the idle?
Any other opinions on to keep or remove stuff?

jdhuegel1

I'm still unfinished so I can't comment on idle control... lol

I removed the gaskets and used hi-temp silicon. The gaskets are pretty shot after removal, so if you were to use gaskets and not silicon, I'd get new ones.

As far as removing stuff.. I have pics of the LIM as well if you'd like that. Pretty much all I kept on the manifolds was the couple vacuum lines for the FPR, boost gauge, and wastegate. My oil jets are venting, so that line is gone too.

jdhuegel1

Oh, I also capped the big hole where the PCV valve went. I vented the crankcase to a catchcan instead of back in the intake.

ejmack1

I would highly consider leaving the ICS on. It makes idle control SOOOO much easier!

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

yes please!

duboisr

My mechanic does not remove the ISC, but he does remove the throttle body water lines and the hotwax rod and the high idle cam .Just a different way to do it .

ejmack1

Best way to do it

jdhuegel1

Here's the LIM. Again, thanks to FD3BOOST.

jdhuegel1

And you can block off that thick black line under the left of the fuel rail..

JONSKI

jdhuegel1,
There are couple things that don't need to be blocked off. One is the AWS inlet port. On your second picture, it's the bottom arrow that is labeled "and here".
The other is the ACV exhaust. If you block off your ACV, this will be blocked off as well. On your third picture it's the leftmost arrow labeled "need to block this off here with a plate".

I also recommend that you do not block off your FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). It's in your last picture. It's the rightmost arrow labeled "this one goes also". I'm not sure if an aftermarket ECU would compensate, but if it didn't you would run very rich without the assistance of an FPR to bleed pressure during low or no boost. You can, however, bypass the FPR solenoid (labeled 'A' in the in vacuum hose diagram, has an orange elec. plug).

After removing the EGR, DT, and ACV, you may also remove their solenoids from the rack. You will also need to unplug or eliminate your airpump. You do not need a pulley kit to eliminate your airpump, you just need a 300k4 or 300k5 (if you can find one) belt.

Keep in mind that eliminating the TB coolant lines/fast idle cam will cause your car to idle very poorly during cold starts. Of course, I'm not sure how an aftermarket ECU deals with this.

It's been my experience that eliminating the AWS does NOT stop the 3krpm warm-up. The ISC will simply assume the job of the AWS on a cold start. Be sure to also put a resistor in the unused AWS elec. connector if you eliminate it. If you don't your ISC will go into full duty mode. Again, my only experiences with this are using the stock ECU. I recommend just blipping the throttle or starting the car in-gear. Eliminating the AWS merely simplifies the engine bay a little.


Good luck.

poss

iTrader: (5)

Ditto

jdhuegel1

Jonski,

Thanks for the feedback. The pics I posted were for a single setup with aftermarket fuel. Sorry, should have specified.. You're right about everything you stated.. I had some guys from the forum help me a while back and those are the pics I got from them..

I plugged the ACV exhaust for looks.. Just a personal thing.. The plate kit came with the one for the inlet... I made the exhaust one. I'm weird like that.

you're right about the AWS too.. Just doing some cleaning. I start the car in gear..

Great post. Thanks!

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Any pictures or tips on how to clean this mess up?
I assume you just need the wire for injectors? And I can clip and tape off all the old lines?

Click for fullsize image .

reza

I put resistor in the connectors that are unused, cover them with silicon fusion tape(available in electrical section of OSH, the tape is not sticky, but when it touch itself, it fused together).
I then put the connectors on the lower rail of the ratnest, so they have a place to mount to. I disamble the rack first then just put in the lower rail.

jdhuegel1

I cut off all the connectors not being used and sealed off the ends with shrinkwrap. I then taped them to the harness itself to clean it all up. You can get rid of all the sequential crap, the wastegate and precontrols, fpr... (I think even the sensor that goes in the stock secondary rail can go provided you have an aftermarket rail).

jspecracer7

Since your running the PFC, no need to run resistors. The PFC doesn't care if they're hooked up or not.

RE13REW

so what did you do for the old wire.... i mean the plug to the vaccum line connector ???

ydeardorff

what can you get rid of completely, while still running the stock ECU and EFI system? I would like to pull it all, while just leaving a nice polished efi system with the wires to the injectors and what ever else is absolutely necessary. I want it to run normally including cold starts, but I just want to simplify things, and clean up the rats nest. (86 13B EFI motor)

teamstealth

For the record, i have ALL idle controls removed, including ISC and im on the stock ECU. The only thing controlling my idle is the screw on the front of the throttle body. I removed the ISC because it was faulty anyway and a new one was $370 Anyway, the idle is very smooth and 100% consistent! 600rpm when cold, 900 when warm! But i would keep the ISC in if i had a functional one, lol

-Zach

JONSKI

If you have a second gen RX-7 (1986 - 1991), then I recommend asking this question in the second gen forum.





What's your idle like when you crank the wheel all the way while stopped and/or have the A/C on?