BATMAN

PowerStop?

Brembo dimpled and slotted rotors?

Brembo cross-drilled rotors.

I currently have the brembo cross-drilled rotors, but how are the dimpled rotors? Any good?

Cypher

You actually posted a VALID post in the Lounge!?!?! I think you spend too much time here..shouldn't this be in the 3rd gen forum or something!?

BATMAN

well respond.... any post is valid in the lounge where most people visit.

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

I have the powerstop on my 2nd, and I don't know if I'm going with them on the 3rd. I think I'm going with the HP Racing big brake kit. I would say powerstop from my experience.

lzyassmofo

right now im using the 4-piston brembo big brake kit on my 3rd gen. from what i can tell my brake peddle feels slightly mushy, like it should grab harder higher up on its throw. i thought there might have been some left over air in the lines from the install, but i definetely bled all the remaining air out so i dunno. when they actuate though, they grab hard, and from all the running ive done on them they dont fade. so im going to call brembo up about the initial peddle mushy-ness and get their 2cents. overall though its a comfortable livable kit that performs, from what i can tell, exceptionally, but it just doesnt have that race car feel that i expected. by the way my rotors are cross drilled and slotted.

luneytune

With a caveat, I have found after highspeed driving on the highway and in the wet, your initial application of the brakes feels like weak braking force, then it quickly changes to normal. Possibly a combination of crossdrilling and being wet, I don't know if this happens on other crossdrilled rotors.

lzyassmofo

hmmm good call. i took the FD out tonight and did a couple high speed hard braking runs. like 120mph - 0 full force. a couple hard brakes like this and it seems as if the pads had seated themselves better, and my peddle response has definetely increased.

martini

You forgot Brembo Blanks. Those would get my vote.

Though I have EBC "slotted" and cross dimpled. and no problems yet. Though it does make a strange sound when brakeing.

Vintage Red Touring

have the Brembo slotted and cross drilled rotors up front, and they are great. Look great, feel great, easy install, and no funny noises or pedal issues.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

if you are goign for performance get stock rotors and cryogenically treat them and get some hawk street/track pads, if you are going for looks then slotted or crossdrilled or both will be more satisfying though they will warp and wear faster and will have less stopping power then stock rotors.

maxpesce

The MUSSHYNESS you feel is because the BREMBO calipers have larger pistons than the stock calipers, therefore it takes more pedal travel to move the pistons - either live with it or upgrade to a larger Master cylinder like a 929 one. The 929 cylinder is a good choice because it is fully compatible with the ABS system.

BATMAN

Good point.

If I install the 929 master cylinder for stock calipers will that have any gains in braking? or lost?

BATMAN

Explain this cryo process and it's benefits please.

I am using EBC green stuff and love it.

Hawk is decent but the good ones that out do EBC chews the rotors so bad that each time u do a brake job the rotor needs to be replaced. i've seen sparks at times during night braking.

i thought slotted/drilled is supposed to prevent warpage.

martini

you don't hang out in the brakes/wheel/tires/suspension forum much, do you?

Drilled/slotted does not prevent warpage. The original idea was to provide places for outgasing from organic pads (so there wasn't a hydroplane type effect.) Then at some point, it was slotted to "clean" off the pads of glazing, etc.. But those aren't really an issue anymore. Now what you see, are slotted and cross drilled mostly for looks, and because most people associate slotted/crossdrilled with performance.

But I'm sure someone else can explain that better than I.

Do, Batman, if you use EBC pads, and EBC rotors together, EBC provides a warranty on the rotors. Just something you might want to consider.

Cyro treating.. You submit the metals to sub-zero temps, way down there, really cold. When they freeze, the metal expands. Then, when they are brought back to temperature, it contracts, but the molecules have a chance to realign themselves. So they make themselves a relatively equal distance from each other, and organize themselves in rows and columns, that sort of thing. The end result is that the molecules have a much greater bond with each other, making the metal itself much stonger.

maxpesce

Adding a 929 Myster Cyl with stock calipers will give a FIRMER pedal and Easier modulation.

Cryo treating consists of dipping the rotors in LIQUID NITROGEN (very cold stuff!) this densifies the grain of the casting and increases their wear and warpage restance.

The Stock Rotors have VERY LITTLE extra meat on them - Generally they can only be resurfaced once.

I find the HAWK HPS and EBC GreenStuff to be very similar with the HPS having slightly better grip at lower temps.

BATMAN

ok, i made my decision, i bought exact replacement x drilled rotors from jason.

i have the ebc grenstuff already.

Maxpesce, have u actually installed the 929 master cylinder to the FD?

How did u know about this?

This is news to me...... and maybe most of the forum...

luneytune

The 929 exchange procedure is in the Robinette pages.

Cypher

So the thread did get moved, someone listened to me!

When I get the money freed up from other things, I'll be going with the Brembo cross-dimpled/slotted rotors all around..I really like the looks of it...

No actual experience to share..

martini

Is that all there is to it?

I work with liquid nitrogen all the time. Perhaps I should look into cyro treating my own stuff.

rotary-tt

The stock rotors have special internal vanes. I think every other one is open(there is a picture in the Service Highlights Manual). Cryo treat the OEM's. I've not heard anything bad about any of the aftermarket rotors although I believe that cross-drilled can crack and are hard to resurface. If you're worried about warping, just don't come to a hard stop and just sit still. That will warp the rotors since the metal under the pads will not cool at the same rate. Also make sure to get the factory brake ducts if you're using the R1 spoiler...

maxpesce

Thats where I found out about it also But no I have not done the conversion yet.

Someplace on a web site I saw somebody selling them (929 Master Cyls) complete with pre-bent hardpipes to fit fd's.

DamonB

If you want brake performance, stick with solid (stock) rotors and cryo treating is the real deal. Rotors love cryo treatments!