looking to get a reman done on a car that I want to buy.
Has:
-Tokico 5 way adjustable
-Pettit toe links & trailing arms
-B&M short throw shifter
-Autometer boost, water temp, air/fuel ratio, oil pressure gauges
-Silicone vacuum hoses
-GReddy Trust cat-back
-GReddy Airnix intake
-Blitz SMIC
-aftermarket downpipe
-M2 performance ast elimination
-M2 performance stage 3 ECU

What else should I do here, to go along with a reman. Should I spend extra cash on having things done to the reman for reliability, maybe something with the turbos? I mean the engine is going to be in the shop, so what the hell. Thanks guys, I am still learning about the whole FD and would like to pick this one up in a few weeks. The work will be done at Banzi Racing in the Midwest.

Please just let me know why you would put what ever here or there.
Thanks!
Britten

 

New wiring harness
New coolant hoses
New fuel lines
New FPD
Clean and flow balanced injectors (with new grommets, o-rings, etc)
New thermostat
New spark plugs and wires

Depending on the power you start putting out with those upgrades, you'll need a new clutch.

I would also add a hi-flo cat depending on the age of the stock cat that's on the car.

If you have the money, have the turbos rebuild while they are off the car.

Make sure they don't reuse any gaskets (like the manifold gaskets).

I would skip the toe links & trailing arms for now (unless the ones on the car are broken) and add some decent springs first to go along with the Tokicos.

 

Ok, kewl. What about the battery placement, extra ground, larger fuel pump, etc..
Thanks!

 

You won't need a larger fuel pump. The battery doesn't need to be relocated with the Blitz SMIC.

 

I think he meant that the car already has all that stuff he listed. In that case, just add the springs.

 

True, thank you 911GT2

What about Electronics?

 

If you can swing it, I'd get an all-alum radiator if I were you. You prob don't need it right now during the winter months (dunno if it gets cold in NV) but you might want to look for one by summer....

 

It is getting very cold, think it is like 29 out side and snowing. =P
I was thinking about going and doing the v-mount too from HKS. Would I need the all-alum radiator then?

 

Think I should go rebuild vs. reman right?

 

A mazda reman will not have all the goodies u wanted (like 3mm seals, etc.). You'd have to get the rebuild tear it down then do all the work. I'd just get a good rebuild by a good shop using good parts.

 

update,
Going with a rebuild from Banzi Racing it sounds like, and would like to have a larger IC with piping, radiator - Fluidyne (sp?),Walbro 255,stailess steel braided coolant hoses and fuel lines, Apexi Power FC with commander, and larger injectors only because the engine is out. I am not 100% on the injectors, maybe I will put that item later and replace something else. I think this should be good and are good extras right?

 

Well I can not decide on what items to get, or if I should just get them all. I know that I just want a bullet proof car, and while the engine is out I thought I would just get it all done. This is my daily driver, and am also thinking about getting just a couple things, and then getting some 17’s for the summer…**** I am running out of money.

PowerFC with commander $1250 + $10 shipping, installation $50
SS clutch line $30, SS fuel and coolant lines $300
Fluidyne $435 + shipping $30, installation $100
Clutch/flywheel ACT street strip $500 + shipping $25 installation is free with the engine rebuild.
SS Midpipe $200 + $15 shipping, installation $100
Profec B $370 + $10 shipping, installation $100
Walbro 255hp $110 + $10 shipping, installation $50
Injectors 1300cc is the largest you can go with the stock fuel rails, this costs $330 per injector (x 2) plus shipping both ways. the 1300cc injectors are made out of the stock 850cc secondaries

Thoughts?

 

That list actually looks pretty good. With all that crazy power you'll be putting down after the break in and then the tuning, you'll probably want to look into upgraded brakes of some kind. But for now, the car sounds like its well on its way to being a sweet machine. Can I have a ride when you're done?

 

I think this is more reason to get the aluminum radiator. You won't need the extra cooling, but the greater temperature extremes will stress the plastic on the stock radiator even more. I think the extreme temperature changes in winter put a lot of stress on the end tanks, and on summer track days when temperatures reach their peak they finally burst.

It's more of a theory than based on experience, but I think putting off the radiator is a bad idea.

Dave

 

^ what they said + new motor mounts

 

How much of this “HAS” to be done while the engine is out? It is to hard to swing all that and rims w/ tires and keep some money in my pocket. I would like to go with a min then come back around later. If you could pick three things on top of the SS hoses and line what would they be? Also with the “WHOLE” setup above how much juice will I put down on the road?