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Well, stock rad started leaking...

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Old 08-20-04, 05:35 PM
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TRINGLS

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Well, stock rad started leaking...

Good thing I already bought my Koyo and had it sitting in my room. I'm about halfway done with the job -- old one is out, just need to drop the new one in.

I already switched/reversed the brackets but it is about to rain so I'm taking a break.

I planned to swap them anyways -- hence having it on hand -- but I didnt want to be 'jumpstarted' into having to do it yet. I was in the midst of fixing the Thunderbird of ours so that I could drive it while doing the rad + AST, vaccuum lines and various other jobs I have planned for this beast.

I'll have pics later....

~Kris
Old 08-20-04, 08:57 PM
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I would be interested in seeing the pics, as I am about to start on mine this weekend - I also cracked an endtank, but didn't have the radiator already laying around, so the car's been up on stands for a few weeks.

-bill
Old 08-20-04, 11:48 PM
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Tony Stewart Killer.

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wow how many miles are on it?
im in the same situation with the koyo in my room but I already tried to fit it and the thing is just too damn big even with the single setup I can't find a place for it
Old 08-21-04, 12:00 AM
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TRINGLS

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Well, I never got back out to it -- ended up watching FatF. I never saw the actual movie (Just the screener) so I decided to give it a shot while hanging out with some friends. It honestly wasnt all that bad -- although it inspired bad things. The two FD's in it made me feel better although I hate Veilside with a passion.

Anyways, I havent tried fitting the Koyo, although I'm not too worried other than the IC duct and A/C evaporator (I bent the **** out of the metal lines to get it out of the way) I have a Pettit intake and I'm soon replacing the stock IC with a Pettit one as well. The only thing I can find being an issue is the stock radiator lines... they are aged so I'm wondering if I should get new ones -- and if so should I get OEM or some aftermarket ones. I've seen what look like upgraded blue ones on cars here, anyone know where to get those?

I'm also considering trying to properly cap off the TB coolant.. IE, remove nipples from TB and remove line from car completely -- I'd also remove the nipple from wherever it goes to. (I think the back of the tstat housing)

I'll upload pics tomorrow after I hopefully finish.
~Kris
Old 08-21-04, 09:57 AM
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I had the local Mazda dealership install an all aluminum one I got from M2 perf. When I got it back the head light covers were almost completely broken off (from pulling the old radiator out I presume) and then I came back in a few months later and the service rep came out and said "Good thing you brought this in now! Whoever installed your radiator got it too close to your brake lines and it was about to cut the brake line in two!" lmao I said "You guys did it" I think it cut into my A/C line as well because I had just filled up my refrigerant and it was empty after I got my car back from having the radiator installed.

I guess what I am saying is BE CAREFULL! lol The guy must have had a hell of a time getting the old one out and the new one in. I noticed the magnet pad they put over the fenders to keep from scratching the car while leaning over it had left little marks at the edges where the guy was leaning on it so hard.
Old 08-21-04, 11:38 AM
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TRINGLS

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I'm getting my *** kicked by it, that is for sure!

I got the rad in, all I need is to return the intake and battery into place now. I cut up half of the batt. tray and I am leaving the IC without a shroud due to the fitment. It shouldnt pose too much of an issue I dont think... now that the radiator is installed though I hope to go ahead and get my new Pettit IC fitted.

I am stuck though, I got so caught up in the trans lines being redone that I forgot how the smaller radiator lines went. I have to search that out now...

I assume the front nipple on the tstat housing runs down to the small nipple on the bottome of the radiator? the overflow line on the pass side goes to the top of the AST I know but where does the line from the bottom of the AST go? I forgot.

Thanks,
~Kris
Old 08-21-04, 12:00 PM
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Rule #1 when disassembling something without a shop manual: always keep track (notes, whatever) of what component goes where when taking something apart.

You have it reversed; the bottom feed line from the AST goes to the thermostat. The top overflow line goes to the overflow tank near the passenger side headlight.

Rule #2 Patience. Not sure why you had to "cut up half of the battery tray" to install a radiator, but it's only fastened by three bolts, and the tray itself is FRP, so you can oblong some holes to help with clearance issues. "Am leaving the IC without a shroud due to fitment...it shouldn't pose too much of an issue"? Your IC is useless without a shroud.

You shouldn't just begin hacking into components without looking at everything carefully to see how you can get it to work with as little surgery as possible.

Last edited by Kento; 08-21-04 at 12:23 PM.
Old 08-21-04, 01:41 PM
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TRINGLS

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Originally Posted by Kento
Rule #1 when disassembling something without a shop manual: always keep track (notes, whatever) of what component goes where when taking something apart.

You have it reversed; the bottom feed line from the AST goes to the thermostat. The top overflow line goes to the overflow tank near the passenger side headlight.

Rule #2 Patience. Not sure why you had to "cut up half of the battery tray" to install a radiator, but it's only fastened by three bolts, and the tray itself is FRP, so you can oblong some holes to help with clearance issues. "Am leaving the IC without a shroud due to fitment...it shouldn't pose too much of an issue"? Your IC is useless without a shroud.

You shouldn't just begin hacking into components without looking at everything carefully to see how you can get it to work with as little surgery as possible.
I normally document everything but I was hurried to get this done so I didnt do any of that. My mistake, I know that.

Not really reversed, although when I redid I think I screwed up again... The top nipple still goes to the overflow tank (I had this right) although NOW the nipple in the middle of the AST now goes to the tstat housing -- the bottom nipple goes to the radiator.

Also, I dont consider what I did 'hacking away and random parts'; I looked at what would take the least modification and I went with it -- not the best idea but it worked. the battery tray is missing a chunk of it now but doesnt hit the fan -- in my ghettoness I crammed two harddrive shells under the batt. to lift it up an extra 1/2" inch. (also temporary) I removed a no longer used bracket mount off the IC and it now clears as well. A picture is worth a thousands words thou so here:

Old radiator -- cracked inlet:


Everything 'back together':


Ghetto-mod to battery tray:


EDIT: I just found an old picture I took with the origanal AST and everything is where it should be. So I havent mixed anything up.
Old 08-21-04, 07:15 PM
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Apologies, what I meant was the middle AST line goes to the thermostat. And yes, the bottom line goes to lower end tank of the radiator.

Originally Posted by JaNusSolSumnus
Hope you're not planning on dipping into the boost much. Your IC is useless just sitting there without a duct directing air through it.
Old 08-21-04, 08:04 PM
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TRINGLS

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No offense taken -- sad thing about the internet is the lack of 'tone' so seemingly innoccent words can sound angry.

Well I guess I'll have to rig something up if you feel it will effect the IC that much.. it makes sense though, otherwise it'd just be getting hot radiator air.

I'm still bleeding air out of the system right now... had it flow over a couple times now, hope I'm close to done. If it werent already dark I'd go pull the TB line and bleed it out that way...

~Kris
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