Weird boost problem (limp mode?)
Weird boost problem (limp mode?)
So, this is my problem, did a search but found a massive number of threads, did read them but could not find somethins useful for my problem.
That is, the car boost really well when cold, I mean after "limp" mode or whatever you call it, something like 11-9-11 (a bit more boost cause of Trust intake maybe?)
but after some minutes (10/15) the boost drops to 6-6-6 or something like that.
I cannot get more boost until I stop and rest the car for at least half an hour, if I stop the car and start it immediately I get a bit more boost something like 8-7-8
My mechanic replaced both WG and PC pills with a bit smaller one due to low boost cause of clogged cats (almost 90K miles on them), I installed the gauge only now so I could not read boost pressure before, and I noticed that on cold days I hit fuel cut in 4th and 5th gears, and my gauge registers boost spikes of 13psi.
Could it be that (due to smaller pills) the car spikes and the ECU puts it in "limp" mode?
That is, the car boost really well when cold, I mean after "limp" mode or whatever you call it, something like 11-9-11 (a bit more boost cause of Trust intake maybe?)
but after some minutes (10/15) the boost drops to 6-6-6 or something like that.
I cannot get more boost until I stop and rest the car for at least half an hour, if I stop the car and start it immediately I get a bit more boost something like 8-7-8
My mechanic replaced both WG and PC pills with a bit smaller one due to low boost cause of clogged cats (almost 90K miles on them), I installed the gauge only now so I could not read boost pressure before, and I noticed that on cold days I hit fuel cut in 4th and 5th gears, and my gauge registers boost spikes of 13psi.
Could it be that (due to smaller pills) the car spikes and the ECU puts it in "limp" mode?
If you still have stock ECU, you are risking your engine spiking to 13psi. I dont think a spike will put your car in limp mode.
Do you still have the stock y-pipe ? They are known to crack at the bottom and the crack is usually not visible, but when it gets got it may expand just enough to cause you such boost problems.
Do you still have the stock y-pipe ? They are known to crack at the bottom and the crack is usually not visible, but when it gets got it may expand just enough to cause you such boost problems.
Did you get a new cat or did you replace with another used one? Boost issues can also be caused by clogged cats. I'm diagnosing boost issues myself and I'm starting to think my cat is clogged. When I took it off to look at it, it did look like it might be clogged. I'll find out for sure tomorrow.
Put the stock pills back in or get a Profec B boost controller. Replacing the pills does not fix the problem it only masks the symptoms.
Ciao.
Put the stock pills back in or get a Profec B boost controller. Replacing the pills does not fix the problem it only masks the symptoms.
Ciao.
I have heard from some that they got similar problems, as in they would only happen after the car warmed up....the answer seemed to be that the solenoids worked fine until they got hot then they would stick either open or shut. Try searching for that it may come up, as I saw it in a recent thread somewhere.
Good luck
Bob
Good luck
Bob
Originally posted by rdavidsrx7
I have heard from some that they got similar problems, as in they would only happen after the car warmed up....the answer seemed to be that the solenoids worked fine until they got hot then they would stick either open or shut. Try searching for that it may come up, as I saw it in a recent thread somewhere.
Good luck
Bob
I have heard from some that they got similar problems, as in they would only happen after the car warmed up....the answer seemed to be that the solenoids worked fine until they got hot then they would stick either open or shut. Try searching for that it may come up, as I saw it in a recent thread somewhere.
Good luck
Bob
But look at the more obvious and easier to access things first. Actually.... check all the IC pipings and couplers. Materials expand under heat and you may have a tiny crack somewhere.
Taking off the UIM and checking the hoses undeneath it, isnt a 2hour job IMO, besides, you need a new gasket...
Originally posted by rdavidsrx7
I have heard from some that they got similar problems, as in they would only happen after the car warmed up....the answer seemed to be that the solenoids worked fine until they got hot then they would stick either open or shut. Try searching for that it may come up, as I saw it in a recent thread somewhere.
Good luck
Bob
I have heard from some that they got similar problems, as in they would only happen after the car warmed up....the answer seemed to be that the solenoids worked fine until they got hot then they would stick either open or shut. Try searching for that it may come up, as I saw it in a recent thread somewhere.
Good luck
Bob
But look at the more obvious and easier to access things first. Actually.... check all the IC pipings and couplers. Materials expand under heat and you may have a tiny crack somewhere.
Taking off the UIM and checking the hoses undeneath it, isnt a 2hour job IMO, besides, you need a new gasket...
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Yes I thought it would be a problem of the solenoids
I have a Profec but still haven't installed yet
And yes, the cats are clogged, 100% sure
Will try also to put the stock pills back on
Do you find useful to change the solenoids with new one?
where can they be found at cheap prices?
If I install the profec I think I would not need the WG solenoid no more but have to keep the PC solenoid, right?
I have a Profec but still haven't installed yet
And yes, the cats are clogged, 100% sure
Will try also to put the stock pills back on
Do you find useful to change the solenoids with new one?
where can they be found at cheap prices?
If I install the profec I think I would not need the WG solenoid no more but have to keep the PC solenoid, right?
There are so many solenoids that it could be....
before you buy random ones check thier resistance against that which is in the book and try aplying voltage to them also when they are hot and see if they make a click or not. This will probably be a pain either way but it will be good experience.
before you buy random ones check thier resistance against that which is in the book and try aplying voltage to them also when they are hot and see if they make a click or not. This will probably be a pain either way but it will be good experience.
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morataya
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