Before you guys jump on me about not searching, I did, and if I missed a thread that answers my question I apologize about wasting your time.

Anyways, I did find a thread on the subject but really didnt answer what I was looking for. From what I have heard you cant put an aftermarket wastegate on these cars, and the only choice is to port the stock wastegate.

Basically I was just wondering if this is true, and if so, what is involved in porting the stock wastegate? (ie what has to be removed, how much it cost you guys to get it done).

Thanks.

 

a quick 75 bucks to port it. whatever the minimum per hour rate is for a shop. You will need to take off the turbos themselves and then take them apart and seperate the turbos. Than you can take the wastegate in to be ported.

 

alright thanks man. I was a little worried about taking the turbos off my self, but then looking at the workshop manual it seems to be not too bad. What I will probably do is take off the tubos themselves, then just take the whole assembly to a shop, because I really dont want to go any further then that.

 

thats the only hard part, or thats at least what ive heard; taking off and putting back on the turbos. i wanna do the portwork on mine but im very paranoid. i wish someone would do it for me! *cough, cough* haha. rotary shops quoted me $650-$750 to get it done since its such a time-consuming process. im still waiting to find somone in my area to help me with mine

 

or just tune for the extra boost!

 

You can't tune for creep.

 

why not? say you set it for 12psi and it creeps to 15, so tune for 15

 

Brian at BNR Supercars can install a larger wastegate into the stock turbine housing. I have a pic of it on my myspace.

 

Thats what i did when i put on my resonated MP and new catback. Plus it was cold out when i went to tune it as well. I guess it depends on what kind of boost you want to run.

 

I would, but that would mean I would have to buy a computer, and pay somebody to tune it properly, which right now I just cant afford. So porting the wastegate is the most economical since I am pushing the 3 mod rule.

The other thing is that with this car I am not going to be going more 10 psi for a couple reasons:

1. The turbos I have on there now I think have 110,000 miles ( still boosting 10-8-10 perfectly), the only reason I am not sure of this is because the engine was rebult (now has 38,000 miles) and I am not sure if they replaced/rebuilt the turbos at that time.

2. I would be pushing the reliability of the car, and the transmission which is an automatic

All I have to do is go through the factory service manual slowly step by step, and make sure I label everything, and I should be fine. The only thing I am dreading is removing the downpipe as I heard it is a real bitch, and the vacuum lines.

Also, if my tubos were actually the stock ones from the factory, they are long past since there estimated lifetime period (70000 miles, which would mean they have gone around 40000 miles past that). So with them out it would give me the perfect oportunity to inspect them, and clean them up. If I find problems with them, well then I have already done the labor intensive part of taking them out.

 

Price?

 

I would consider doing it, but the only thing is I would have to ship it there and back, and somehow pay Brian.

 

i would never tune for creep. i would fix the problem right the first time.

so when you're boosting during a warm day, there's no creep, you just run god awful rich? also, what if you want more power and want to raise the boost? do you just raise it some more and tune for 18psi on stock turbos? just do it right, its not to hard to remove the turbos, just takes time...search for turbo removal

 

good point.

 

no, because you would be in a different cell in the fuel map


But I understand the OP's point, no computer so has to keep it at 10psi. Porting the wastegate is a good insurance, keep the cat converter in there as well.

 

I just had my turbos done. I have posted some pictures of it up but not on this site yet. I pm'ed you the link
I should have them up on here soon. David Garfinkle did all the porting.

 

PM me that link as well if you don't mind, I'd love to see them as I plan on doing this myself shortly.

 

the porting is the easiest part of the whole job. i couldnt imagine doing all the work of removing the turbos then paying someone for the easy stuff. save the money from the labor and buy yourself a dremel and pick up a tungsten bit while you're at it. now you just added a tool to your collection leave the wastegate closed and spray the chamber. open the wastegate and start porting, go as big as you can and stay within the lines. takes about 1/2 hour to clean it up real nice.

if you have a die grinder, i have a ton of tungsten bits that i can sell cheap. you'll eat through the cast iron real quick and be done in 5 min

 

done, it is under listed under my 93 SSM with 38k miles build up thread on the other
rotary car forum /showthread.php?t=5402

I will try to get it posted up here as well, just a bit more work and she should be done.

 

while you have the turbos out you might as well do this and install two egt probes!

 

With that many miles on the turbos, they are not worth messing with. You will also find coolant hoses and gaskets you will need to replace as well as exhaust hardware if you pull the turbos. If you are on that tight of a budget, I would install a manual boost controller for the time being. Keep the boost at 10 lbs until your finances allow for a computer upgrade and a fresh set of turbos. You can make one for a few $ and some time out of home depot parts or I can sell you a pre-assembled one. If that doesn't keep the boost in check, install an exhaust restrictor for the time being.

 

Ok thanks, right now I can only hope though that the turbos were either rebuilt or replaced so I dont have to replace all that, I never really thought about the other things I might find.

 

be ready to buy some if not all turbo studs from mazda if they are original

 

Yeah I heard those were lots of fun, what are they like $6 or $8 a screw?

 

mabye i am doing it wrong, but with the power fc there is a spreadsheet, rows are boost, collums are rpm if you arent creeping it will stay in the 10 psi row, if you creep it bumps up to the higher row.

but i agree you should definately port the wastegate, at least that will help some, although i still creep to 13 or 14 psi on cold days.