kiwi fd3s rs

Hi guys, just picked up my first rx7, jdm spec 2000 series 8 rs..

What mods can the stock Ecu handle? Ive searched the forums and over the net and seems people dont really mess with anything unless they have an aftermarket Ecu of some sort.

Could i do a full 3inch exhaust, cold air intake and front mount intercooler on stock ecu?

Would an Apexi pfc base map handle these mods without a tune?

ACCR

I think that the CAI and maybe the 3" exhaust can be handle by stock ECU.... but not the FMI.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

thats my current setup, but its not wise for a new owner. we have a FAQ section that every new rx7 owner should look through.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=oil

we also have, what we call, reliability mods which should always come first.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/want-buy-3rd-gen-need-reliabilty-mod-help-41513/
http://www.fd3s.net/stages.html
http://www.turborx7.com/recomend.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/

we also have the 3 mod rule. 3 flow mods before you dish the ecu for some other type of engine management(excluding midpipe). a boost controller to keep the boost at a safe "stock" level is almost a must when moding your car.

and welcome to the club! its always nice to see a new owner!

drew32

I'd be careful running a Midpipe without atleast porting your wastegate.

rexhvn

And a boost controller! But, the stock ECU can handle, exhaust, intake and front mount intercooler. Anything more then that, you should be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

i wouldnt quite go that far...

the stock ecu can handle as many flow mods as you throw at it. as long as you can manage your boost levels, keeping it at stock "10 PSI". a boost controller does this, as you mentioned(again excluding midpipe).

a downpipe and air intakes is a half decent safe start.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

So long as you DO NOT boost over 11psi (to be safe) the stock ecu should be fine with any number of mods. Again, you MUST be able to effectively control your boost level if you want to do flow mods w/o upgrading the ECU.

I would say do your radiator, AST, a hose job (if needed), intake, Downpipe, and maybe cat-back. Anything more than that and you'll be playing with fire unless you have a damn good boost controller, or an upgraded (tuneable, no point in paying for a piggyback if you intend to progressively mod) ECU.

I'd speak to whoever you intend to do the tuning on your car before selecting which ECU to use. No point in getting a Motec if your tuner is mental with a PFC, or visa versa.

GTR-guy

Just wondering, what's a series 8? FD3S RX7 had 6 series!

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

America only received the Series 6 FD (1992-1995), however the vehicle was continuously produced for other world markets until the RX-7's termination in 2002. The Series 8 FD was produced from 1999-2002, it's what everybody refers to when talking about " '99 spec" parts.


Quick and easy ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_RX-7

Zokus

^^^ Somehow I doubt you're from Tokyo. 92-95 were series six. 96-98 were series 7. 99-02 were series 8.

YOUWSH

I've got an 00 RS too.

Your fine until you put on a midpipe so any of those basic bolt on is ok on the stock ecu.

Basemap is fine for those mods but I wouldn't be pushing too hard until a proper tune. You will see your boost level raised with those mods without a boost controller.

Thought I might add that the stock airbox on the 99+ models are alot more efficient than earlier models and does a great job. To be honest the stock airbox with the 'cheap bastard' mod is one of the true cold air intakes out there without spending a fortune on say the SP / Autoexe etc which cost $1k+.

YOUWSH

Haha funniest thing I've heard in a while. Stick to GTR's mate.

D CUPS

iTrader: (1)

...no where else except for Australia uses the terms Series to 6, 7's and 8's.

Every where else in the world especially Japan uses the terms
Versions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. So GTR-guy is correct, there are 6 versions of the FD.

Buy a specific part for your FD from Japan and they will ask you what version your RX-7 is not what Series.

Just quickly for you ( by GTR-guy), breakdown roughly without being too specific:
Versions 1-2 (Series 6)
Versions 3-4 (Series 7)
Versions 5-6 (Series 8)
This isnt totally correct, its broken down into specific years which i am too lazy to do.

BigWillieStyles

+1.

Dont expect any gains from a front mount either

The base maps of a power FC are fine without a tune, but a tune would be beneficial.

Warren Zock

for the 2000 rs you can do alot. if your going to do full 3inch meaning headers downpipe cat cat back you will want to install a boost controler or your going to have boost creep to a bad extent.

if you do intake do a bov aswell makes things a little easier on the turbo
you can get away with an intercooler upgrade. not going to be any real power gains. maybe a few hp baised on lower inlet temp but nothing serious without a new ecu. that said the car is a hot car anything we can cool down lets. hard piping kit. upgrading the spark plug wires to a nology or similar set up.

I would upgrade all your grounding points because the stock rs grounds are kinda crap.
you can upgrade the coils.

then there is a whole stack of things that can be done. obviously suspension int body.

but the more important things to the engine. upgrading your rad and your oil cooling system would be a good call. what I have found is some of the rs models seem to have gotten upgraded ypipes and air separation tanks. Find out if yours was lucky enough to get those upgrades yet if not its a good idea. aswell.

lol but yeah not much can be done with stock ecu lol.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

and why not? lowering intake temps lowers the pressure in the combustion process. putting less stress on the engine and not only creating higher power numbers but also increasing the longevity of your motor.


your power gains would be very minimal. pretty much pointless to buy a pfc without getting fuel maps and a/f adjusted. the base map also runs super rich. you should never run like this for a long period of time. spend the extra $200-$300 for a proper tune...

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

we dont have headers...and a boost controller can control boost spike not creep.

fd's come with a stock bov

a higher flow rad is a smart choice. the rs models already have the dual oil coolers, no need to upgrade them at this time.

yes, the y-pipes on the rs are the gasket and not coupler type. so he's fine there. the ast should eventually be changed out. none of the models ever made that i know of last in high heat/time situations. they tend to split and burst in differnent places

sorry to critique everything you posted. i just didnt want the thread starter to get any false information or wrong viewpoints on proven fact

Warren Zock

I like when people crit my work learn more from a screw up. i dont trust the stock bov too much had troubles with mine. Once again the oil coolers your right they twin is good but when you see longer track days i upgraded cause i was seeing the oil outside of my comfort zone temp wise.

my biggest question is how does your car not have headers? what is between your down pipe and the block? Is there a different word for this in rotary terminology?

I know i already replaced what i call headers with a set polished for flow and wrapped to try and keep the heat in the header and out of my engine bay.

The Driver

iTrader: (4)

DO NOT INSTALL A MIDPIPE WITHOUT A PORTED WASTEGATE AND BOOST CONTROLLER!!!!!!!!!!!

If you want to argue please tell my previous engine that...

The Driver

iTrader: (4)

I think it's turbo terminology...

Engine - Manifold - Turbo - downpipe - midpipe - Cat-back

DC13B

not because its rotary, but because its turbo, you call it a turbo manifold or just manifold

kiwi fd3s rs

Im actually from New Zealand, we refer to the RX7 in series.
series 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 from 78 to 02.

My RS has twin oil coolers and Radiator has one extra row of fins from Factory, not to mention on the series 8 RS they upgraded the cooling ducts to the radiator,airbox and intercooler ( still an interwarmer if you ask me!) , hard pipes on throttle body side, larger brakes( 330mm i think), 4.3 final drive ratio, Bilstein Shockabsorbers, 17 inch wheels and 280 hp with 10% more effecient turbos. also slightly lighter( yet to find any details on that but had been told)

Well im a mechanic/fabricator so will look at doing any Mods i can produce myself, have modded plenty of Evos and Nissan turbos i previously owned, but there so easy to get going fast and adapt well to any changes.

So might start with putting in a decent boost and water temp gauge, fabricate a 3 inch Catback ( dont want to overboost ) and then look at upgrading to a front mount intercooler and thicker aluminium radiator along with fabricating my own AST( dont know if its upgraded? ) , i will be eventually going single turbo with all supporting mods, but im abit Tapped out with $$$ since ive just purchased this badboy!!

Cheers guys, will have alook through the suggested links and safety mods!

GTR-guy

^^^Thanks for that!

Anyways, good luck with your car man!

evilg

Welcome to the forums, and it's good to see another kiwi here looking after their FD the right way.
(Too many of em in NZ end up on the heap)

Anyway, if you have any questions pertaining to things in NZ feel free to PM me and I'll do my best to help!

Catcha

kiwi fd3s rs

Cheers mate, yeah big change for me stepping into a rotary, im really happy with the vehicle. will no doubt be posting at later dates