Vmount troubleshooting
11-23-12, 01:05 AM
#1
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Vmount troubleshooting
So we got the overheating off the table, I drove it to work tonight and notice a really low idle, probably around 400-500 rpm after fully warmed up. Felt like a dying alternator. Also a stumble in boost response. Tomorrow I'm going to check for vacuum leaks and run a voltage test on my battery to check the alternator.
Other possible catalysts
Part of my install of the vmount included a HKS throttlebody elbow which just like the greddy elbow doesn't have an intake for the aws. I have a DP so its basically useless, and I capped my aws valve in the back. Would capping the aws give me the low idle issues?
Also Im still on the stock ecu, which I've been told cant handle bolt-ons and an upgraded IC (Core Dimensions: 600 X 255.6 X 103). I have a power fc that is going to a nearby shop to put a map on it. Problems this could cause?
Other things I've noticed
My "cold side" radiator pipe isn't really cold, I dunno if that's a huge deal since my temps aren't high. Does the whole radiator heat up but cold flow out? Ill know more once I get a more accurate temp sensor.
I know everyone is quick to jump on the blown coolant seals reply, but I don't have any issues with start-up, driving or leaks since burping my coolant system and replacing my caps, ast and ast hoses. Anything other than the overflow tank spewing coolant I should look for? Would a Compression test settle the debate? Or is it more complicated than that? My last fd was on a fresh rebuild that already had everything sorted out, so I've never had these issues.
Other possible catalysts
Part of my install of the vmount included a HKS throttlebody elbow which just like the greddy elbow doesn't have an intake for the aws. I have a DP so its basically useless, and I capped my aws valve in the back. Would capping the aws give me the low idle issues?
Also Im still on the stock ecu, which I've been told cant handle bolt-ons and an upgraded IC (Core Dimensions: 600 X 255.6 X 103). I have a power fc that is going to a nearby shop to put a map on it. Problems this could cause?
Other things I've noticed
My "cold side" radiator pipe isn't really cold, I dunno if that's a huge deal since my temps aren't high. Does the whole radiator heat up but cold flow out? Ill know more once I get a more accurate temp sensor.
I know everyone is quick to jump on the blown coolant seals reply, but I don't have any issues with start-up, driving or leaks since burping my coolant system and replacing my caps, ast and ast hoses. Anything other than the overflow tank spewing coolant I should look for? Would a Compression test settle the debate? Or is it more complicated than that? My last fd was on a fresh rebuild that already had everything sorted out, so I've never had these issues.
11-24-12, 05:11 AM
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So as I expected it was the alternator. Key set to off 12.29, After start up 14.3 and then 13.9 and then 13.0 and then 12. =.=
Is there something that I did during the install that would have caused the alternator to die? I want to make sure and fix it so I dont put a rebuilt one on and fry it.
Is there something that I did during the install that would have caused the alternator to die? I want to make sure and fix it so I dont put a rebuilt one on and fry it.
11-25-12, 11:03 AM
#5
Alternators die. After all, they are approaching 20 years old. Sometimes it can be at a peculiar time. Just double check your wiring and you should be fine. Light weight pulleys will make no difference.
Definitely, do not boost on your car with these mods and a stock ECU. Wait for the PFC and get it tuned. As far as them "putting a map on it", I assume it's the base mod map. Read this document, it will help you understand what is involved with the PFC and what is considered safe. Ultimately, having your car tuned is the best solution.
Explains basic PFC information:
http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FAQ.pdf
Explains what is possible with different base maps
A'PEXi Power FC
Definitely, do not boost on your car with these mods and a stock ECU. Wait for the PFC and get it tuned. As far as them "putting a map on it", I assume it's the base mod map. Read this document, it will help you understand what is involved with the PFC and what is considered safe. Ultimately, having your car tuned is the best solution.
Explains basic PFC information:
http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FAQ.pdf
Explains what is possible with different base maps
A'PEXi Power FC
11-26-12, 01:40 AM
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Alternators die. After all, they are approaching 20 years old. Sometimes it can be at a peculiar time. Just double check your wiring and you should be fine. Light weight pulleys will make no difference.
Definitely, do not boost on your car with these mods and a stock ECU. Wait for the PFC and get it tuned. As far as them "putting a map on it", I assume it's the base mod map. Read this document, it will help you understand what is involved with the PFC and what is considered safe. Ultimately, having your car tuned is the best solution.
Explains basic PFC information:
http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FAQ.pdf
Explains what is possible with different base maps
A'PEXi Power FC
Definitely, do not boost on your car with these mods and a stock ECU. Wait for the PFC and get it tuned. As far as them "putting a map on it", I assume it's the base mod map. Read this document, it will help you understand what is involved with the PFC and what is considered safe. Ultimately, having your car tuned is the best solution.
Explains basic PFC information:
http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/PowerFC_FAQ.pdf
Explains what is possible with different base maps
A'PEXi Power FC
Im taking it up to Dallas to get it tuned this friday by rotary performance (rx7.com) Ill keep everyone posted on what comes of this.
My only concern now is my cold side radiator hose is hot. Seems not normal to me since the radiator is supposed to put cold coolant back into the engine. Is this normal? Or should it be super cold and I messed up the install? I did switch the hoses so that hot coolant flows into the normal cold side and the engine takes coolant back in from the normal hot side.
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11-26-12, 11:28 AM
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My thoughts were gravity and the only instructions I could find for the vmount were here
‚g‚j‚r@‚uƒ}ƒEƒ“ƒgƒLƒbƒg‘•’…
And thats also how they do it.
‚g‚j‚r@‚uƒ}ƒEƒ“ƒgƒLƒbƒg‘•’…
And thats also how they do it.
11-26-12, 12:46 PM
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Umm... Your coolant is supposed to be 85c, or 185f. That is HOT to the touch, the radiator helps regulate the average change temperate to stay at 85ish degrees. It's not like an IC core where it leached the majority of the heat out for a 1-time use...
Last edited by fendamonky; 11-26-12 at 12:49 PM.
11-26-12, 10:07 PM
#11
My thoughts were gravity and the only instructions I could find for the vmount were here
‚g‚j‚r@‚uƒ}ƒEƒ“ƒgƒLƒbƒg‘•’…
And thats also how they do it.
‚g‚j‚r@‚uƒ}ƒEƒ“ƒgƒLƒbƒg‘•’…
And thats also how they do it.
11-28-12, 12:23 PM
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[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Vat3lO7lU&list=UUr9-Fq6cDSbMzi8ujmoJhiA&index=2&feature=plcp]
Last edited by electricit; 11-28-12 at 12:26 PM.
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