7dust

iTrader: (14)

What water temperatures do you see with your Greddy front mount intercoolers?

I am runnning the knock off - RX7 store type and have the AC condenser in place. I think the core is 3" thick.

I have a Greddy 4" (3 row) setup I will be going to install shortly but would like to get water temps stable first if it is even possible.

PFC shows water temps under 90 C when cruising or in the morning traffic. Driving around in Summmer Houston traffic I see water temps 100 C to 115 C. Yes I know that sucks.

I have swapped out my fans for a lower mileage set. No difference.

PFC set for fans to come on 80 C and 85 C

I am running a 50/50 mix of coolant but considering going to water and water wetter only or using Evans.

My radiator is Koyo N-Flow. Using a stock Mazda thermostat.

I have considered using a lower temp thermostat but I cannnot see how this will help, only make the car take longer to warm up - operating temps would remain same?

I really thought I had all the supporting mods to run a front mount, but I fail.

Kiku

iTrader: (4)

I ran the greddy FMIC (authentic) for a while up here in DFW, normal Koyo rad. Low temp thermoswitch, low temp thermostat, etc..

I saw 87-90C on my PFC when cruising at 3.5K RPM and in traffic I would see about 95-99C never went over 100. Though, I'm also running dual 25 row oil coolers.

Went vmount with the same core...85C cruise 90C traffic...lol in 107F ambient.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

What temp do the fans kick on in hi mode? Looks like 85 if you have the ac on. I guess it would be cooler without that ac condensor further blocking air to the radiator, but you probably don't want to get rid of your ac. more water in the mix might help. I would put a 180 degree thermostat in, it might drop the temps during crusing and then they might not rise as much during traffic, worth a try.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

Here are the temps I had and my progression in time to lower them.

I am at 6300ft which means we have a lot less air to work with when cooling out here in CO.

I used to have no thermostat, single stock oil cooler, and M-spec FMIC and KOYO radiator (N flow). My temps would shoot up around 105-110C and was way too hot (summertime).

I dropped in a thermostat (180F, 82-83C) and my temps dropped to 100C max.

I put in place dual 19 row oil coolers and ducting for the oil coolers and also for the radiator. Without the bumper I was running 88-87C running full boost on the highway in 89-92F temperatures. Remember that in CO we have WAY WAY less air to work with at this elevation and temperature. Probably 25-30% less.

I then changed out my radiator cap with a new one because I heard some noises coming from the cap and thought it wasn't sealing entirely.

Temps now are 85-86C max around city and cruising and when boosted hard on the highway. I think the problem is solved.

Hopefully this helps you solve your problem. I used (.032") 7075 Aluminum sheet metal for my ducting. I bent a bunch of pieces in 90 degree angles.....and used 3M high temp tape to put everything together. at the edges I used fastners for extra strength. Everything is holding up well and performing beautifully.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

We do not suffer from a lack of air here in Houston. There's plenty of it and its really damn hot! its usually in the high 90's or 100's and thats when I can't keep the car cool.

My car was natively an automatic with one oil cooler but I have upgraded my transmission cooler to a second oil cooler with a set of R1 lines and custom fittings.

Not sure what the stock thermostat opens at. I bought mine from Atkins at the time of rebuild. However, I don't think the thermostat is the problem.

Ducting seems like it might help - are you ducting the gap between the core support and vertically mounted radiator or ?

I'm leaning towards a mazdaspeed style ducted hood to get the heat out. Not sure if this really works or if I'll be pissing in the wind. Maybe cruising around with the hood off in traffic would be a good experiment - albeit a little redneck.

What I am getting so far about front mounted intercoolers is that when it is hot out - your car is going to be hot. Live with it or do not drive it in the heat. Sucks.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

My FMIC is mounted higher up verticially than my radiator is so I have a little gap between the FMIC and the hole in the bumper. I added ducting under the FMIC that extends out to the lip of the bumper. This ensure that all air going into the front bumper hole is being used either to cool the air in the FMIC and any air going under the FMIC and through is being forced through the radiator.

I have a box looking structure that is 3M taped to the bottom of the radiator and connects to the bottom of the FMIC. The box structure extends forward to the bottom of the front hole in the bumper.

On the sides of the radiator I added "Wings" that come out and are 3M taped to the side of the radiator and have bracket supports that extend to the holes on the top of the radiator. I also have a 90 degree bent piece of sheet metal that adds rigidity to the side pieces to guide air through the radiator. I have no ducting at the top of my radiator/FMIC.

I made a total enclosure for my oil coolers out of sheetmetal. I also used aluminum...I have the bumper off now and if you feel the aluminum ducting, its hot. The ducting is also conducting heat and I am sure the air is cooling that as well. perhaps it helps?

Another thing, do you have an idler pulley? Maybe your belt if slipping on your water pump?

before, I didn't have an idler pulley and bought one just in case. I am sure that helped some as well.

zman600

iTrader: (5)

i used to have the knock off greddy front and stayed steady at 85-87c all day.
*89c after a few strip passes and then right back down*

i now have the real deal intercooler and the temps are the same (except intake temps but we are not talking about those)

i would look into your fan relays and see if there are all good... i hit the 90's when cruising/traffic when my high speed relay went out.

BLACK MAMBA

iTrader: (58)

i had a fmic and couldnt get lower than 97c crusing and after few pulls 105, went to v mount and have my fans set at 86 and most of the time im running temps around 82-84 crusing 87-89 after few pulls.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

I have the Pineapple idler pulley and I like it a lot No slipping there.

I did replace my fan relays with lower mileage ones and removed the fan recall harness under the hood. Both fans come on but did not investigate further.

I see from posters above that it looks like you did not completely seal the bumper gap with the front mount. lOOklatme ducted underneath the intercooler to bring in fresh air. Zman600 it looks like from the picture in your sig that intercooler does not seal completely with your bumper.

The bottom and sides of my intercooler seal well with the core and tanks. The top side of my intercooler does not form as tight a seal because there wasn't as much bumper material to work with. Perhaps sealing between the top of the radiator and core support would work in my case to duct in fresh air.

As I said, about to go with a thicker intercoooler core and larger turbo so want to get the water temps in check.

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

I have the greddy knockoff front mount with a koyo n flow rad.

Cruising on a cool day I'll get 90-93c, on hot days I'll get up to 98c but the fans come on and kick it back to 93c.

-Geoff

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ Yeah but you're in Canada. You probably are always scooping penguin guts out of the core.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I too can attest to the excellence of the Vmount.....

May want to consider moving that direction OP. The Rotary Extreme track kit keeps your A/C as well. Best kit on the market IMO. Check out my build thread.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

If I can get a hold of a MB bumper to replace my cut one - I'd probably be all over it.

unwritten-dinasty

I just finished my build 3 weeks ago, went from twins to single and i opted for the FMIC M-Spec replica that RX7Store sells.

Before with the SMIC my temps stayed between 88-98c as i had one of my radiator motors shut, it would only have 1 speed. But now i have the opposite situation

When i went single i didnt want any issues so i changed my radiator fans and i added a small 9" fan in between the intercooler and the AC condensor/rad, this helps the radiator get the air that the FMIC takes and i get ice cold a/c at any time. This fan is on as soon as i turn the car on. Without AC car temps stay between 79-82 and with AC they drop as low as 74.

I had the fans come on on the PFC at 80 but guess i will have to turn it up to come on at 84-86.

zman600

iTrader: (5)

disregard the sig pic 7dust...its old and the intercooler is flush now. sorry for the confusion
i also have a diversion panel over the radiator and foam seal around the sides.

personally i believe there is more to the whole vmount/front mount/stock mount discussion that most talk about... imo i think the vmount (even tho effective and cool) is sometimes used as a "bandaid mod" similar to how the engine torque dampner is to a broken/worn out motor mount.
*VMount lovers: please read carefully im not dising the vmount* ok ill continue now
what im trying to say here, without stepping on everyones toes, is that you dont have to go vmount to keep your temps down. there are ways to run ~ 83c all day in traffic and still have a front mount. cus i do it.(with one oil cooler everyday in houston traffic)
im not saying ones better then the other cus that discussion is beaten to all hell. we all know this. what im stating is that everytime someone has a temperature problem; vmount come up as the fix-all solution. now it may lower the temperatures down to likeable levels due to more air being presented to the radiator but why were they high in the first place? cus i dont have a problem even when pushing it hard. :/
Maybe the installed front mount isnt the problem... there are plenty of things that have made me run in the 90's but i fix the broken part and i come back to 83-85c after.

anyone agree or is it just me?
opinions?

thanks

zman600

iTrader: (5)

...to sum up what i said in better words...

i agree that vmount is easier to keep temps in range because it really does give better flow to the rad but thats not to say the vmount is the fix to a overheating rx7 with a fromt mount.

a rx7 can stay cool with a front mount...just find the real problem first.

(god! This post was much more simple then the first lol)

MIBagentQ

iTrader: (3)

It's interesting to read what the average temps are for the FMIC and the V-mount and then compare it to my personal results with a stock-mount location. My average temps are basically right in the middle of everybody else's.

ebay intercooler with a pettit cool charge III duct, cruising and traffic 85-86C (sometimes going to 89 in traffic before the fans turn on and then it goes back to 85/86C). Circuit track racing never exceeds 90c

PowerFC fans set to turn on at 85/87

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I will have mine available soon.... PM'd

indio84

iTrader: (7)

unwritten-dinasty

Agreed with zman, like i said, i went FMIC and did it the proper way and my temps are tooo cool nowadays.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

I got a FMIC as a gift ,for my car. it would be very rude to not use it , plus i'm using the stock IC .. so I would think anything is better then that thing .

BUT this did not come with anything to relocate my radiator Vertical like I've seen many people who have FMIC , its a universal greddy IC , I know its not going to be the easiest thing to install since its not made for the RX7 , BuT my question to you guys is do you guys leave the radiator as it is stock , slanted? or do you NEED to put hte radiator verticle when you go FMIC my temps are normally 83 cruising , traffic 87 , and I'm getting a vented hood soon to help out during track days

zman600

iTrader: (5)

If you have the tools and the skill i would say fab up some brackets and mount it vertically.
From what i remember they move the intercooler for fitment reasons but i may be wrong.

on the other hand, a radiator standing up would work alot better due to more surface facing oncoming air and since the fins will then be lined up better with the oncoming air. (quoting from F1 engineers)

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Fabbing the brackets for the Intercooler is no problem , fabbing the brackets to straighten the radiator , and the condensor , and elongate all the AC tubbing , the powersteering return line tubing , all of the above .. will seriously make me cry , because I just installed my ac , and got it working last month

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I have installed a GT3574R turbo and did some spirited driving yesterday, driving the car hard. The temps were cooler probably 50's but I was at probably 9-10K elevation. The air at this elevation is super thin. The car never budged over 85C.

This is boosting up large hills and also down hills. The car ran flawlessly with my FMIC and ducted set up.

My intake temps were around 30's C.

I have my FMIC and ducting that is similar to FEED's car. I have the burnout front bumper.

Type_P10

I'v got the greddy FMIC 3" core with ac in place. After bolting on the BNR,full exhaust, filters temps usually got to 105c+ when doing hard pulls or auto x. Koyo n flow and a low temp tstat got the temps down, but it only made the car run cooler a bit longer.. No problems at crusing. Going with the rotary works v mount now.