Since my boost gauge is currently unoperable, I decided to turn off the Profec Type S. Well, unfortunately, after some less than spirited driving for 2 blocks, I came to a complete stop and my idle became VERY rough, coming down to 400 rpms and finally shutting off .... I cranked the car, and after a few turns, and some help from the gas pedal, the car started again but sounded very rough. I immediately turned around and took it back home. Every time I took my foot off the gas pedal the engine would shut off. Also, would not let me rev past 3500 rpms +/-. I heard some boost but i took it very easy.

I figure that the car went into limp mode but I found it weird that the car would shut off immediately after coming down below 1000 rpms. By the way, no lights came on at all !! No check engine light, no coolant light ... nothing.

After having the car rest for 3 hours and doing a KOKO reset ... the car started easier but still idled very badly and the engine shut down again .... I restarted it, and this time the coolant light went on ... then I noticed the WHITE smoke off the tail pipes ... I am worried that the coolant seals are gone ... am I right??

What do you guys think ?? Thanks in advance.

Carlos - Evil M5

 

Map sensor...first check your map sensor. Make sure all the hoses are on tight. A disconnected map sensor can easily mimic those symptoms. I remember when that happened to me once...I almost cried lol. I thought I had blown my motor

~Ramy

 

szounds like the map senaor

 

Update ... Checked the Map Sensor, and unfortunately it is perfectly fine .... the hose is VERY snugly fit on there. I turned on the engine, it immediately started sputtering, coolant light is on and some white smoke is coming off the pipes. Engine immediately shuts off if I dont keep pressing the gas pedal and mantain it over 1000 rpms .... Engine sounds very rough ... Still no check engine light or anything of the sorts .... just the coolant light. BTW there are no coolant leaks inside the engine bay or underneath the car !! White smoke from tail pipes comes and goes together with the rough idle of the car .... which makes me think that the coolant seals are blown .... what do you guys think??

 

Is the smoke thick? If so, than yeah your coolant seals... have you checked the coolant level?

 

Just curious, why you'd turn off the Profec Type S boost controller and then go out driving? With the boost controller off, what was regulating your boost besides the wastegate spring?

I'd do a compression check just to be sure. That will at least tell you that your engine is good. Then starts the line checks

 

A lot of people will run with it off as that would be the lowest setting, i.e. wastegate spring so about 7 PSI on the stock twins. You can have basically 3 boost settings something like:

Controller Off - 7 PSI
Controller Low - 10 PSI
Controller High - 13 PSI

or something similar.

 

the reason I turned off the controller was because my boost gauge is inoperable.
I just switched from an ebay boost controller / A/F gauge, to Defi boost and A/F gauges. To my surprise neither of them work!! so tomake things safe, I decided to turn the Profec Type S since I am not going to attempt to adjust it blindly.

BTW, I should mention that my local Rotaty shop just installed 2 radiator hoses, FMIC, Intake, Efini Y pipe/crossover, Greddy elbow, Computer by Rotatry Performance, together with the change of A/F and Boost gauges, and the boost controller. they also performed an oil change and an Air Pump Delete. We were going with the Supra Pump, but the filter was missing, and was going to do the Spark Plugs and wires but they hadn't arrived yet. I was going to drop off again the car on Monday or Tuesday morning.

When I picked up the car from the shop last night, first thing I noticed was the idle jumping from about 650 rpms to 1000 rpms. Whe I turned on the headlights, the idle smoothed itself out ... I found it odd since this had never happened before. This is when I notice that my new (to me) Defi gauges are non opperable. Here I decided to leave the boost controller as is and drove it home. (BTW nice bump in power So, I get home ( about 10 blocks away from the shop) to pick up my wife. Here is when I said to my self: having the boost controller on with a bad Boost gauge sounds like trouble to me, let turn off the profec and take it easy on the car. 2 blocks away from the house all the problems started.

To review ...

- Problems started about 30 mins of picking up the car from the shop.

Evil m5 - Carlos


thanks for all the responses and the help BTW.

 

Yep, take the car back to the shop. If it was fine before they did the work, then they need to fix or find the problem.

 

Yeah,

I am taking the car back to the shop first thing tomorrow morning. I'm just trying to figure out how worried I should be as I am unsure of the shops response to this. I very much doubt that they will admit any wrong doing and assume responsability if my engine is blown This will be a big blow if this happens considering that I just spent all this money in these upgrades, and spend more money to do it correctly. I was originally going to install everything myself ... but at the last moment decided to spend the extra money and have a professional do it.


Worst case scenario, let say that the coolant seals are at fault, and the shop does not assume responasability .... How much should I expect to pay to fix the car? Thanks in advance.


Carlos - EVIL M5


PS - as you guys can tell, I am hoping for the best and preparing for the worst !

 

bump ... do blown coolant seals mean engine rebuilt?? How much can I expect to pay to fix this problem ?? Thanks in advance.


Carlos - Evil M5

 

Yes, damaged coolant seals is an engine rebuild. Engine rebuilds can run anywhere from $1000 to $4000 depending on what you have done and that doesn't include the R&R labor (removal and re-installation).

 

I'd still do a compression check on the engine so you can at least start to rule some things out.
I believe coolant seals can be found with a leak down check on the cooling system