I want to fix the leak on my oil pan. The engine is already out of the car. Should a use the permatex hylomar HPF from Autozone or should a get honda-bond? Which one is better to use?

 

Either one should work just fine, although the Honda Bond will probably be 3X the cost.

The most important thing is to make sure both mating surfaces are completely clean. Wipe them repeatedly with Acetone to dissolve any residual oil, your rag should be completely clean by the time you are done.

Don't forget to wear chemically resistant Neoprene gloves when you handle the Acetone or you won't have any skin left as well.

Less is more when it comes to these sealants....apply it inboard of the bolt holes in a continuous bead and overlap the ends.

Under the bolts I used some stainless steel fender washers to distribute the load a little more evenly and prevent deflection of the pan. Oh, and don't forget to crank the bolts down REALLY tight when you are done, about 85 ft. lbs. should do it! (Actually it's 79-104 INCH lbs.)

 

The honda bond is very good as is yama bond( yamaha ) or toyota bond . The mazda bond cost way to much. My mechanic stands behind his work and uses honda bond , easy to get up the street. He will not do the job unless the car can sit for three days as per directions . That is key to a job that will not come back .

 

I tried Hylomar on a valve cover gasket once because I was out of silicone. It didn't work for **** since it never dries.

 

Did you apply any sealant to the motor mount bolts? Just wondering since I've heard conflicting answers.

 

Nope.

 

There are SO many different kinds of sealants out there today. They are specifically engineered for different tasks. In my experience Permatex products are excellent, but it often comes down to the specific intended use and amount used.

I think gaskets are pretty much on the way out......

 

Hylomar makes a great intake sealant, that's what I use it for. I use (Permatex) silicone for anything that contacts oil. At least now I know my suspicion about Hylomar not working against oil was right (at least that once).

 

Are you guys talking about the hylomar that you use on the coolant seals, that gooy blue stuff? I wouldnt use that on the oil pay, if you cant get honda bond use the permatex grey, dont use the blue, orange or black. The grey one doenst smell like vinegar, the permatex grey has the same consistency as honda bond and its just as good but at half the cost. If you already have the engine out i would put it on a engine stand and flip the engine upside down cleaneverthing realy good and let the engine sit for a least a day.

 

Hylomar comes in different grades, designed to seal different tolerances. The most commonly one used is the medium (blue) which is really designed for mating machined surfaces. They also make a light and heavy formulation. It is extremely oil resistant and was originally designed for aircraft engines. It's poly based and good stuff.

RTV Silicone is also appropriate for oil pans, it's been around for years and is also good stuff. A little messy and hard to work with, although it's really cheap.

My favorite has got to be "The Right Stuff for Imports".
(Permatex) It comes in a pressurized can kind of like Cheeze Whiz and is really easy to apply and get a constant diameter bead. The best part is you can use the sealed parts immediately - no waiting for curing. It's expensive. It's the same stuff they use on the assembly line.

None of this stuff works unless you do a really good job cleaning the mating surfaces, and gradually and lightly torque everything down with a quality torque wrench.

 

were you kidding about the torque specs (85ft-lbs)? i always torque to manual specs...have I been doing this wrong?

 

Yes the 85 ft/lbs was a joke - reed the rest of the post!

 

Yeah, I may have been a little on the low side, probably more like 125 ft. lbs. should do it.

We want to make sure that sucker does not fall off, right?

I WAS JUST KIDDING! (iF YOU READ THE LAST THING I TYPED I GAVE THE CORRECT SPECS.....

 

Where is the best place to get Honda Bond? Is there any places online to get some or does the stuff from Autozone or Advance Auto work just as well?
Has anyone just used a floor jack to on the transmission to lift up the engine in order to snake out the oil pan?

 

What are the best washers to use for this purpose?

 

Coat the bolt threads with sealant. Use bolts with washer molded to head. Then if you are lucky it wont leak for a year. Probably easier to buy a pan to put under the car.

 

Well, that's not a very positive attitude!

 

Negatory - where did you get this info?

Flange bolts are absolutely the wrong solution to proper torque settings for this application. All you're going to do is distort the VERY flimsy pan when you crank them down, which EVERYONE over torques!

You need to make sure all the components used are clean and free of residual "gunk". Chasing the bolt holes with a tap and then cleaning them completely with spray carb cleaner and allowing them to dry will insure a proper setting. One drop of plain old motor oil
(and don't you DARE use synthetic - j/k) on the threads will allow the bolts to seat evenly.

If anyone is NOT willing to make SURE all surfaces are completely free of debris, prepped and cleaned properly - expect leaks.

Mine has not leaked in 40,000 miles and 5 years.

 

How do I snake the oil pan out with out dropping the sub frame? Which direction should I move it?

 

The Right Stuff for imports works very, very well. Get it at you local auto store.
John