existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys I have a question for the guys that used or still have the complete Unorthodox pulley kit installed in there seven or for the guys that just know something about it? With this kit can you remove the air pump or would you still have to buy the Greddy pulley kit for that? Thanks

rx7_guy123

my friend has these on his car and it replaces everything but that I believe, so yes, you will still have to get the greddy set if you want to remove the air pump.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

DO NOT attempt to eliminate the air pump with that water pump pulley. The water pump will slip. I didn't measure the unorthodox and stock water pump pulleys, but side by side they look similar in diameter. It works well with a greddy or similar water pump pulley.

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys! Any one else

To get this right so the Greddy water pump pulley is bigger in diameter than the stock water pump pulley? How about the Greddy alternator pulley is that the same size as stock?

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

If you eliminated the airpump with a bracket and tensioner pulley, then you could use the unorthodox set.

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

Do you have pics of the set up? Also of a what car would I get the tensioner pulley and also the bracket?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Its slightly larger and has grooves to grip the belt.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

greddy alt pulley is also larger than stock.

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

The alternator pulley looks the same to me anyone else sees something different?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I have the kit posted. It is the new version that does not require removing the eccentric shaft bolt. All pully diameter sizes are the same. The water pump tension pulley is black becuase it's hard anodized something. The rest are polished. I don't beleive they offer any colors any more. You could eliminate the air pump with a true 28" belt.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i went on ebay and bought a set that are exacly like the greddy but a silver color and they were like 30 bucks and i still have them on now.. had it for a year and no problems.. if you get them and need to remove the air pump and need the belt numbers i have them

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

When removing the crank pulley is there any special way of removing it and also when installing? The question popped out because of this
http://www.turborx7.com/pulley.htm

Does any one know if this is true or if anyone done this, what special steps if any did you take to remove the main pulley?

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

It spells it out clearly in your link there. Wedge something between the flywheel or clutch to hold the "stack" forwards. If not the torrington bearing will fall and - well you don't want to know what happens after that.

Better have a pro help you.

later

maxcooper

It is true. The pics on the Mazdatrix FAQ are from my engine. The damage happened after I installed a new front pulley that required the removal of the hub and center bolt.

-Max

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

1) If the engine is in the car (this DOES NOT APPLY for 93-95's) do something to wedge the clutch pedal down -- meaning a 2x4 or something like it, holding the pedal down and wedged against steering wheel or front of the seat.

I don’t see why step 1 wouldn’t work on the 93-95 rx7. Can any body explain why it wouldn’t work I really like this step better than step 2?

3) For 93-95's you need to do something to wedge the flywheel forward - easiest we have done is a small piece of wood up through the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing. With the wood between the pressure plate and the bell housing. Do something to hold it there, because if you rotate the engine while trying to get the bolt loose, the wood will fall out.

Also do I need to follow the step only if aim removing or loosening the main pulley eccentric shaft bolt? Because my pulley looks like I don’t have to remove the eccentric shaft bolt it looks like I only have to remove the four smaller bolts and install it would I still have to follow the step when only removing the four smaller bolts around the stock pulley? This pulley looks like it installs just like the Pettit main pulley.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you have a pulley like the Pettit one, then you don't need to worry about those instructions (or possible problems).

Bryan Jacobs

iTrader: (66)

The reason why for FD you use step #3 instead of #1 is because unlike all other rx7s the fd utilizes a pull type clutch (the other are a push type) so on the fd the clutch engagement are "backwards" compared to earlier rx7.'s

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

Thanks a lot guys! I have pics of the pulley but aim haveing trouble posting them it says they are to big for some reason I always posted pictures this size but know its giving me some BS since I rebooted my Pc. If any one knows what can be done to fix this let me know so I can post the pics? Thanks

Ok aim trying to install the main pulley but when I removed the stock main pulley I noticed that the stock pulley also has a black circular like spacer with a bunch of square like holes on it. Know my question is was my Unorthodox main pulley suppose to come with on or do you just mount it with out one and thats how it suppose to mount with out one or what? Help me out guys aim in the middle of it right know? Thanks

O and by the way this pulley looks like it mounts like the stock or like the Pettit pulley but this one has no spacer to it.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Can you reword you question?

Old UR pulley requires you to remove the eccentric shaft bolt.
New UR pulley mounts exactly like stock (only replaces the front pulley).

TopPerformer

If your old pulley is the stock pulley, and you own the new UR pulley you do not need to remove the crankshaft bolt to replace it. That plate you are referring to is the locking plate for the crankshaft bolt that can be used on the stock or newer UR pulley. It is there to prevent the crankshaft bolt from coming undone completely just in case it wasn't torque on properly. Entirely, up to you if you want to install it with the new UR pulley.

NM, i think I know what you're talking about. In the rear is a timing wheel, "square like holes". Thats required.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Did you also have an oil leak that coudn't be traced? My eccentric shaft bolt was loose when I picked up my engine. They supposedly used a front cover from another block when they tested my engine.