Zokus

I'm using this thread as a work through. Any help with the questions would be much appreciated. I've read through nearly every thread in this, and the general sections. Most of the relevant threads either contain broken links, or no answers at all. I have a lot of questions, and a lot of information, so please be patient.

I've done the sequential simplification. Aside from the wastegate, turbo pre-control, and that odd turbo control solenoid, I have three solenoids left; connected to the Tan, Black and White connectors. Basically: both turbo controls, charge control, charge relief, wastegate control, and turbo pre-control. There will be a boost controller put in line with the wastegate control, eliminating the need for a restrictor.

Do I need the restrictor for the turbo pre-control? I lost it, and would like to know the effect it has, so that I may better understand.

Now, I've removed the ACV, EGR and double throttle. The stock FPR has also been removed due to a fuel system upgrade.

Just for last minute clarification, the double throttle is on the UIM itself, correct?

[/b] What cannot be deleted from the UIM? Currently I have removed everything except for the AIT sensor, it is the only thing still connected. [/b]

All the nipples have been blocked off; save for the one coming off of the solenoids, and the 'crankcase' vent. The purge control solenoid has also been removed.

Is the nipple (firewall side) on the UIM>TB flange adequate for connecting the MAP sensor?

Am I missing anything crucial? Anything that would prevent the car from operating? Since the simplification, there are a whole lot of connectors under the UIM that worry me. It's too easy to forget something. Unfortunately, I don't know what half of them do.


A little bit of history:

Since it's been rebuilt, the car has never given an inkling that it wants to start.

- Steady, powerful compression on all faces of both rotors.
- Spark on all brand new plugs (replaced multiple times so far)
- CAS connectors in the correct order
- Both primary fuel injectors had become stuck closed while they were out of the car. This was corrected, still no go.
- Coolant temp sensor reads 4.99V at all times in the PFC. (Sensor on rear iron)

Now, when I pull the car, it feels like it starts up but will not run on it's own. The odd time I can pedal it to stay running @ 3000 rpm for 10 seconds or so before it dies. However, it is running like it's a blown motor, and blowing enough fuel smoke to look like a forest fire. Enough fuel that it seeps from the DP bolt holes. It seems like something is not running in the correct sequence.


Things I'm going to go over again:

- TPS voltages
- Spark on all plugs
- CAS Connectors and distance from pully (does anyone know what this is?)
- I've got Chuck Westbrooks tuning notes, so I'm going to play in the PFC
- Find out what is wrong with the coolant temp sensor

Any other things I should be looking at?

Thanks in advance.

Zokus

So far:

- TPS checks out
- I have spark
- CAS connectors are seated and in the right order
- The PFC is set up as best as I know how, with regards to getting the car started.
- I have fuel

Is there more than one coolant sensor? ie: one for the ECU and one for the useless dash gauge?

There is an update. The car now struggles to start on it's own. Doesn't quite make it, but it's close. I haven't changed anything, what the hell?

rossc

If you lost your turbo pre-control restrictor, you are going to get a large (and potentially destructive) boost spike at 4500rpm. Place a restrictor valve in the line instead (ie. small needle valve).

Just curious, are you in Edmonton and area or Calgary and area?

Zokus

I'm in the Edmonton area. As for the pre-control, that is what I was afraid of. I have another one, sourced through the dealership, on it's way.

rossc

How much did they charge you for that tiny thing?

Also, have you checked your injectors since you put them back into the engine? It almost sounds like they are stuck open now. Especially if you are describing fuel actually leaking out your downpipe. If you have a mechanics stethascope try listening for the clicks of the injectors.

Zokus

I haven't seen the invoice yet, so I don't know. Probably something ridiculous like $5.00.

As for the injectors, who knows. I tested them (leak and flow) before I put them back in.

It wouldn't even attempt to start before pulling the car around the other night, it would only crank. Now at least it stumbles like it will start, but doesn't quite get there. I'm going to try pulling it again tomorrow, see what happens, then start from the bottom up again if it doesn't work.

rossc

Best of luck. If you come across some parts you need give me a shout, I've got quite a few laying around and I'm probably within driving distance of you.

wstrohm

That voltage indicates an open circuit either in the sensor's input from the PFC, the return line to chassis ground, or in the sensor itself. For a coolant temperature of 68°F, the voltage should be about 2.3 volts; for coolant at normal operating temperature (192°F or thereabouts), it should read about 0.4 volts.

The PCME supplies 5 volts through an internal resistor (about 2.5 Kohms, IIRC) to its sensor output terminal. To get the proper voltage when connected to the thermosensor, the thermosensor needs to load that supply voltage with current through its temperature-dependent resistor to chassis ground.

Zokus

Thanks for the information. It's great help.