Nick13B

Well last night my buddy aaron (airn) and I took my UIM off and found a few things wrong.

1. Found a vaccum line blown off the charge control solenoid, so we reconnected it.

2. found the couple from the y pipe to the intercooler loose and tightened it.


and that was all.

SO in the midst of putting the UIM back on for the first time I over torque the upper right bolt on my plastic duct to the throttle body and snapped the bolt off so now I need a new throttle body, and the first time we hooked everything back up we forgot to hook the map sensor up, and started the car it was horrible So we took off the UIM again and hooked up the map sensor, and found one of the check valves was broken, so we installed a new check valve, this valve was the one from the vaccum chamber to the beginning of the Y pipe.

Then we took her out for a test run and found that the second turbo still doesnt spool and sometimes I get a huge boost leak and boost drops down to around 5 PSI before 4500 and wont go back up, but then sometimes it boosts just fine up till 4500 then the boost still bleeds off after , and we also forgot to check the vacuum lines to the turbos themselves.

Anyt thoughts on what the problem could be?

JONSKI

You don't need a new TB if you just snapped off one of the studs. Just take the broken stud out and replace it. If there's not enough left of the broken stud to grab on with a pair of vise grips, then you need to drill a center hole and use an easy-out. You might be able to find a replacement stud at a local hardware store or Mazda dealership. Either way, I would be more concerned about your ability to torque nuts and bolts correctly. Get a torque wrench and practice with it so you can better judge the amount of torque you are applying.

Was the broken check valve aluminum or plastic? I think the aluminum one is supposed to allow some backflow. The three plastic ones do not.

Nick13B

Well I wasn't using a torque wrench thats why I over torqued it

good idea on the bolt I didn't know it was replaceable I thought it was welded to the TB itself, I bet once I fix the missing bolt problem my boost leak will go away too .

and the broken check valve was the yellow and green plastic one

Snook

iTrader: (12)

if you have the other 3 bolts secured on the tb then it is not leaking boost from there I can almost be certain....

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Do any of you newbies ever use a manual and the correct tools?

Torque values are listed in the manual.

fd3s_rx7

iTrader: (13)

Whats the history of your turbos??

Nick13B

I don't know the history of the turbos but they are the stock with 110K on them, and there was some oil in the plastic intake elbow, and that can't be good .

Enconsiderate

those turbos are long over due

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

could aslo be your pre cat that scould be clogged up if you still got it.

skunks

you dont need to use a torque wrench, just use common sence. i mean its holding back 10-15 psi, not 300psi you dont need very much torque, just hand tighten.

in anycase, you can get an extractor from sears. if that does not work, just drill and tap a new hole for yoru bolt, perhaps a bit larger then the stocker? that or weld a bolt to the TB and cut the end/head off it later. I think the extractor will work though, I mean thats what they do

skunks

some oil is normal, its called blowby and it squirts a bit of oil in to your turbos to lube them. unless a cup or 2 of oil comes out of your intercooler pipes/intercooler, your fine.

nopistons94

i have oil in my rear turbo right in the compressor , i can see it dripping when i look under the car , mine have 95k on em and a little shaft play but i think i can still get a few K more out of them , your turbos should be fine just like skunk said

Garrett

Hey, don't worry man, I've taken my elbow off a hundred times and just broke a stud the other day. It is easy to over torque those bottom bolts. Take it from me, unless you have a tendency to snap studs you don't need to dial in torque values everytime you tighten a bolt.

Jonski is right, you don't have to buy another trottle body, the stud should have broke with enough of it to take some vise grips and twist it off. However, you can probably do what I did. Just let that plastic tank dangle, don't worry it won't cause a problem and tighten the studs with it just hanging there. If you do this at least you'll be able to run it until you can change the stud out.

When you do change the stud out, to get the other one in there, take two nuts and twist them on the top opposing each other so that they seal and create a fake nut to screw the stud in the hole.

Take it easy on him fellas, taking the UIM off for the first time is a nightmare. As for the secondary turbo. If probably should be boosting, but with as many miles as you have, not very well and leaking oil. Go over the vacuum diagram and make sure everything is hooked up right, also you might want to think about replacing all of your hoses.

MDoMe7

I went to 2 different mazda dealerships and they couldn't get the part number for those studs. It's not in any of their diagrams. So I just went to a hardware store and just got a replacement screw (6mm I think, m6-1?)
I used to have only 3 screws in there when I got my car. The O-ring between the throttle body and the plastic elbow eventually broke. So I suggest not running your car for too long w/o the fourth screw in there.

Nick13B

Thanks for all the advice guys, I don't think I'll have a problem finding the right size bolt since I work on aircraft I have an infinite supply of every kind of bolt you can think of

the thing that I dont understand is before I hooked up the charge control solenoid I would always have full boost on the primary turbo, now sometimes it will only boost at 5 PSI,,,

and another does the down pipe bolt on to the turbo charger itself or the manifold?

airn

i dont think you will find a metric bolt on base nick, all of our planes are standard sizes. as far as your boost goes it wasnt working right in the first place. if you were getting 15 psi with stock exhaust stock intake. you should never have seen more than 10psi without a boost controler. your car has a boost leak now its acting like my car does when i blow a intercooler coupling. i bet if you find the boost leak your car will run right. and oil is normal in the intercooler piping but yours had alot. look into replacing those turbos when you do your motor this winter. sorry we couldnt get it all fixed friday.

Nick13B

Where would I check for the boost leak at?

at all the couplings from the turbo outlet all the way to the UIM?

airn

check everything from your y pipe all the way up to your TB. i would get that stud replaced so you know that isnt where its leaking.

Nick13B

I just checked all the couplings, the one from the Y duct out had 2 small holes in it...but I don't think that would be enough to make the boost that low, im gonna point towards the throttle body bolt being off, I mean it makes sense, until the pressure gets high enough it holds, but then after it leaks.

airn

how big are the holes? get that replaced when under pressure the holes might expand alittle. get that coupling replaced they are cheap. and get a new stud and i'll help you take out the old one. then hopefully your car will be fixed.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

If you don't replace the coupler that has two holes in it,..then you'll actually have three holes, which includes the one in your head!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

And keep in mind hand tight with a small wrench isn't putting much pressure on the wrench. When I do smaller fasteners I use 1/4" drive and only moderate pressure on the handle.

I'm lucky in my work - I get to design machines large enough I can justify using 5/8" or larger bolts everywhere. That's just big enough to keep the occasional grunt monkey from twisting the heads off. Automotive engineers don't have that luxury.