Cory Simpson

OK, I think this may have something to do with my car cutting out.... I haven't been driving it, because of this problem...


Anyways, I ment to fix it before I put the engine in, but I forgot It is a tube that is coming off of the primary (front) turbo's compressor housing, it looks like an "F", it hooks to two vacume hoses. My question.... were do these two hoses go, and what are they for? Would it cause any kind of stalling if they are not hooked up? Or is is just some emissions stuff.... I intend on fixing these, but now I have to find the metal part that broke off I'll probably have to make a new one now...

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Are they the ones that go to the oil filler neck and the the oil injectors?

rotorbrain

The f shaped nipple has the return hoses from the wastegate actuator and the prespool actuator . The ones that glass man is thinking of are on the plastic primary turbo air intake elbow . See if the rubber hoses still have the pill in them .

rotorbrain

Sorry , pill should be pills

Cory Simpson

Pills??? What?


I mean the F shaped part BROKE OFF! That explains my over boosting problem... since the wastegate isn't opening. And what is the other one? Since one is the wastegate actuator.

Cory Simpson

Also I know my wastegate works, it just not hooked up... I took the air compressor, and put about 15 PSI to it (and the other hose, trying to figure out what it is), and the wastegate opened...

I've just got to go to advanced, and find one that I can put into the hole, beucase the metal broke off flush with the cast on the compressor housing I don't think that my brother could have welded it anyways...

Cory Simpson

Well that image helped alot!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The nipple tree you're thinking of is right behind the words "From Air Cleaner" on the left of the pic. It serves the wastegate and precontrol actuators. If broken, you'd get a huge boost leak and the wastegate and precontrol actuators would have no source. So I guess you're saying then that the oversupply to the turbos wins out over the leak, causing overboost.

Sorry bro, I think you're going to have a very hard time fixing it without a new set of turbos or at least a new compressor housing. That's a real bad problem to have - I suggest detaching the precontrol and wastegate actuator arms from the door levers until you get the car fixed.

Dave

Cory Simpson

I'm going to go get a brass fitting, and try to tap it into the housing. Hopfully that will work. If it doesn't then I'll find those two a new vacume/pressure source further up and close that hole up.

rotorbrain

those two lines are the BLEED OFF from the actuators. remember that they have two nipples on them. the source is from the two solenoids on the front of the UIM. you know the ones that hang from the two pedestals behind the pressure tank.

plug the hole in the turbo housing and let the two lines vent to the atmosphere for now, until you repair it. there should be a pill in each line. the large pill is in the short line, the small pill is in the short line. make sure those pills are in the lines. if theyre not there. . . it wont work correctly.

info courtesy. . . . "THE GARFINKLE"

paul

Ibumar

I had that piece come off as well. If it still looks like an "F", where the lower "leg" of it is more narrow than the part that has the two "arms" come out of it, chances are that it's not broken off, but simply came out. Mine did that, and I was able to push it back into the hole in the manifold. To make sure it stays in I put some gasket stuff on the ridge of that nipple that sits against the manifold, and ran some stainless steel wire around it and the manifold to hold it in place.

___
| |--------
| |--------
| |
| |--------
| |--------
|_ _|
| |
| | <- This part slips into the manifold
| |

Of course my pretty aretwork didn't come out right...

The two lines of that piece are the pressure side of the wastegate and precontrol actuator. The lines have the pills in them, unless the restriction is build into the nipples on your car. The bleed off is done by the solenoids. They open/close to bleed of the pressure inside the actuator to keep the wastegate/precotrol doors open a certain amount.

Good luck

Cory Simpson

I think your talking about the intake elbow? (the plastic piece.)



Anyways, I found the part that broke off, and it's broke, and Going to try to put an easy out in the piece that is still in the compressor housing, so I can repair it right, but otherwise it's JB weld time

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Getting off topic, I think this isn't clear. I'd like to understand this.

The lines go from the pressurized side of the primary, thru the pills, into the actuator. Since the actuators need pressure to open the doors, they will open when 1) the charge is high enough and 2) the solenoid is closed (open bleeds the pressure and closes the door).

The lines on the other side of the solenoids go 3 places: into the intake elbow of the primary (atmospheric), and 1 into each of the oil metering jets by the fuel rails.

Why the duty-control solenoids and oil jets are connected on the same lines, and common to a line on the atmospheric side of the primay intake, I don't find clear at all.

Dave

Ibumar

The solenoids being connected to the atmosphere makes sense, the pressure has to go somewhere when bleeding it off. I don't know how the oil metering jets work, so I can't comment on those. All I can imagine is that they need to get rid of some pressure as well...?

wonder1and

if you need an elbow that goes to the front compressor housing w/ 2 good nipples... i've got one. pm me w/ an offer.
Ryker

Cory Simpson

Well I've about got it fixed, I think I'm just confusing everyone...


Anyways the nipple the goes into the compressor housing that broke off, has been blow out (I'm assuming by the 1.2 Bar of boost I saw a couple times ) So I cut up a banjo bolt, and welded it to the part that the vaume lines hook to. And hopefully JB weld will hold it in, because it won't thread....

Cory Simpson

OK, that didn't work. The JB weld putty **** just broke right out, the teflon tape/RTV popped out the first time it boosted.



Anyone know of any adhesive that would bond steel (it has threads), and the cast aluminum???