you are rite that smic sit on top of rad and get baked
but if u install a smic properly .......they actually serve the purpose for wat they are put in ........rather than getting baked
i have a greddy SMIC.. it was installed in japan... and they installed it on an angel .. more like a v mount set up but just the diffrence that it is SM and slanted a bit forward on and angle so the air rushes in

 

Bringing this thread back because I couldn't find the other thread.

What is the verdict? I ordered a fast acting iat sensor and I have a Power FC. Do I install the new iat sensor in stock location or in the elbow or before or after the intercooler?

 

After re-reading the first post, thought I would post temps from a recent day on the Dyno.
This was in August, and it was hot that day - 101f in the shop.

Car is an FD with cooling and oil mods from Pineapple racing.
Single Turbo T04S running 13 lbs
Custom Vmount courtesy of afgmoto1978 - Koyo rad modified for dual Pass and custom IC
Mazmart water pump and tstat.

Temps on the dyno:
Water: 185f
Oil: 215f

 

I use the AIT sensor in the stock location, best position when you use water injection

 

I came to this thread to ask this specific question (where would be the best location with a/i). Do you have any source of this info or from personal experience?

 

I have the fast reacting AIT, don't trust the stock one. Stock position is closest to the engine, this is where you want to see the temps. Best position for AI (post turbo)injector is just before the TB so it still aromatise and the AIT sees the cooler air ;-)

 

I don't understand this part. If the computer is getting a false reading off the heat-soaked intake manifold, wouldn't it think that the charge-temp is too hot? Thus adding fuel to prevent detonation?

 

Heat soaked = too hot (you're right)
But hotter = less dense air.
At a common pressure, the less dense air will have fewer oxygen molecules. Therefore less fuel will be injected into the engine since there isn't as much oxygen for the fuel to burn with.

If they didn't reduce the amount of fuel injected, some of it would not burn, having a negative impact on emissions. It's an emissions control basically.

 

Okay, I have a fast reacting AIT sensor on order already. Where are you getting your information from? It seems reasonable and true but I would be interested in reading more into it.

 

doesn't matter as much as you think. Wherever you put it, you tune around it. You really need a custom IAT compensation table for every car.

 

Where are you guys getting the sensors from now?

 

It depends, generally your tune would remove fuel as IAT's increase. However, some tuners will add fuel when the IAT's become excessively high.

 

This.
I'd like to get my hands on one as well.

 

Best location is stock from my experience. Anyone that wants one feel free to PM or email me. Brent at wannaspeed dot com, I am getting a few in at a time pretty consistently now.

 

I had a discussion with some friends about this and one insists the best location is after the intercooler to measure the correct temp going into the engine bay. When I asked about the negatives of water or meth inj. coming after the IAT he said it doesn't matter because there is also fuel being injected into the engine which also has a different temp/cooling affect which you can't calculate.

I also talked about this with the guy who made my gauges and he says stock location is fine because a proper sensor (eg. fast acting iat) will read the air passing through even if the body of the sensor is heated due to crappy location.

I think I'll stick with the stock location because it's easier to install, no drilling etc.

 

Not read more then the first page but doesnt problem #1 need a stock ecu or a aftermarket ecu using the stock sensor? We all know what happens if you run a stock ecu and upgrade your car 'to much'. Running an aftermarket ecu should mean that you've got it properly tuned and this problem shouldnt appear. As far as i know the PFC shows the sensor values but dont actually adjust the fuel/timing according to them.

 

Yep don't worry about the sensor and the 1st thing you should do when you buy this car is install a PFC and then have it professionally tuned by someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

The base map is super safe if the boost is kept at 10psi and you'll get much better gas mileage which will pay for your PFC

 

Regardless of running the stock ecu or an aftermarket ecu (which if you have any decent mods you should already have an aftermarket ecu), the problem is the stock sensor reacts too slow to temperature changes. It has a large brass probe with insulating material around it. All modern ecu's use air temperature to adjust the amount of fuel being injected. Yes you can tune around the stock sensor's slow response and inaccuracy with an aftermarket ecu, but this is hardly ideal. You will lose both performance and economy by tuning the mixture extra rich so that when it heat soaks you're still safe. Moving the sensor helps with the heat soak but it doesn't help with it's slow response. This is where the fast reacting sensors come in. Makes it so much easier to tune the car, especially the temperature correction tables. In a short amount of time you can have a map that is consistent from summer to winter, with water or methanol injection. You have better response, better idle quality, better performance and better fuel economy due to an accurate reading and precise fuel management.

 

The fast acting IAT was one of the first upgrades I did. Stock location. It's buttterrr babbbbbyyy.

 

I got an email from someone named shane that wants a sensor, when I replied via email It came back delivery failed. So Shane if you see this message you might PM me.

 

I may be interested, as I'm now located in puerto Rico and heat soak is a HUGE issue

 

And, as far as addition, based on the fact my car is already tuned with micro tech is this plug and play? Bit new to this part of things with sensors

 

I have a plug n play harness that plugs directly into the factory harness, and a pigtail harness if you want to splice and solder it direct to your harness. The sensor uses the exact same resistance curve as the stock sensor so no tuning is required at all. It will do everything the stock sensor does except it does it within seconds instead of minutes. Some people even run it on the stock ecu and said it make the car run better. But to really reap the full potential of the sensor it's recommended to tune the air temp correction tables. This is usually done as the seasons change. IE tune first during summer then again during winter. Or winter then summer. This will insure your A/F ratio is consistent during temperature changes. It's really easy to tune this when using the aftermarket sensors.