Two more reasons why these cars blow up
07-02-09, 05:32 PM
#55
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Wow!!!...this is alot of info on cooling the rotary. By design, the rotary engine tends to hold heat inside the combustion chamber longer than conventional piston engines, simply because of the trachoidal shape of the chambers.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
07-02-09, 09:43 PM
#56
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Wow!!!...this is alot of info on cooling the rotary. By design, the rotary engine tends to hold heat inside the combustion chamber longer than conventional piston engines, simply because of the trachoidal shape of the chambers.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
but to say its not important is just foolish
the tips you gave belong in the newb section, this is more for people who know that already and are looking for more ways to keep there engines lasting longer, so they can enjoy there cars longer
so we can stop having to hear **** from the piston people about how we need new engines every 50k miles on the dot no matter what
just because the design of the engine holds more heat, doesnt mean we shouldnt find ways to help remove it. these engines were left with many issues because of time, technology of the era, emmisions restrictions, and poor quality parts to keep prices low.
so its up to people like these guys to find better ways to keep these engines cool so they last longer and run better
and if you havent noticed already things like aftermarket tuneable ecu's, v-mounts, faster sensors, auxilary injection, upgraded radiators, and fuel system, as well as common sense are all steps that people are taking to make these engines better, so why say that all this is too much, when quite frankly, its still not enough?
07-02-09, 11:13 PM
#57
Ihor, I am also waiting on additional info on the fast acting sensor in the stock location. Are you testing the same sensor as dudemanownsanrx7 is using? I read his thread not long after he started it and was really impressed by that discussion as well. Another test by a separate agency is always a good thing.
07-03-09, 06:41 PM
#59
Ihor, I am also waiting on additional info on the fast acting sensor in the stock location. Are you testing the same sensor as dudemanownsanrx7 is using? I read his thread not long after he started it and was really impressed by that discussion as well. Another test by a separate agency is always a good thing.
07-03-09, 09:38 PM
#60
Well today I had your sensor installed on my greddy eblow 2 inch away from the coupler, I left the old sensor in. The way I have it setup is that I can go for a drive with oem sensor monitior temps then unlpug it and plug in the fast sensor. This my find, as usual I let my car warmup to 175 degree water temp, before I move it. According to fast sensor it was reading 39 celisus, now I plug in the oem sensor it read 43 celisus. So I went for a ride,outside temp on my mirror is 72 degree. I am using the fast sensor now, beat on the car many times and it start to climbing from 39-45 celisus, now I decide to unplug the fast sensor and plug in the oem and it read 51 celisus. I goona let me car run (park) for 30 minute for each sensor to compare each.
Khris
Khris
07-04-09, 10:28 AM
#63
Yeah he picked one of the sensors up from me, so the comparisons are using the same fast sensors. I also tested each sensor when they came in and found no resistance difference from one to the next. I'm curious what correction table settings people end up using for the pfc. Keep up the good work ihor. I'll post up more information as i continue testing on the sensor also. Right now i just had a house moved in so my attention has been on that for now.
07-04-09, 12:53 PM
#64
I don't think I am going to bother putting the sensor back in the srock location. The placement is just idiotic. There is no way the air temp is as high as reads after driving for a few miles on a highway. I believe the sensor is reading whatever temp the intake manifold is. Not the actual air entering the motor.I may test it with a seperate temp probe.
07-04-09, 01:17 PM
#66
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i think he meant it more like, it heated up and didnt cool of untill after driving for 5 of 10 minutes, i believe the sensor acts more like a MAF would
so it would make some sense if the thermister doesnt cool off the voltage coming back to the ecu would still read hot
actually it should be opposite of a maf and more like an o2 sensor
so it would make some sense if the thermister doesnt cool off the voltage coming back to the ecu would still read hot
actually it should be opposite of a maf and more like an o2 sensor
07-04-09, 02:29 PM
#67
Yes i meant the sensor got heat soaked and took a very long time to show the actual temp going into the engine. Even with the car parked for several hrs the sensor was still reading over 50 c when the air entering the engine was more like 39c. This was the stock sensor shaved down and relocated.
07-12-09, 06:58 PM
#68
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well i took my car for a nice long drive to the beach and back with the new sensor mounted into the elbow
and i must first say the car felt great! and on top of that the sensor was extremely accurate, in the morning when it was nice and cool i was flying down rt3 in clifton, and i was peeking at the comander as i was going along, i could literaly watch the air temp reading drop as the air got colder and colder
and on top of that, coming back i was crusing and then hit traffic, the whole time was peeking at the air temp, and it was adjusting with what the car was doing the entire time
i would say its a definite must to do, just to give yourself that much more protection, and its not like its that expensive or that hard to do, it completely pays off in the end
and i must first say the car felt great! and on top of that the sensor was extremely accurate, in the morning when it was nice and cool i was flying down rt3 in clifton, and i was peeking at the comander as i was going along, i could literaly watch the air temp reading drop as the air got colder and colder
and on top of that, coming back i was crusing and then hit traffic, the whole time was peeking at the air temp, and it was adjusting with what the car was doing the entire time
i would say its a definite must to do, just to give yourself that much more protection, and its not like its that expensive or that hard to do, it completely pays off in the end
07-12-09, 09:12 PM
#69
07-14-09, 02:48 PM
#71
Wow!!!...this is alot of info on cooling the rotary. By design, the rotary engine tends to hold heat inside the combustion chamber longer than conventional piston engines, simply because of the trachoidal shape of the chambers.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
As rotary engine lovers, we must understand that we have a unique motor that requires extra attention during operations. This means that once the temp gauge starts to rise in hot stop and go traffic; its time, to pull over and let it cool down.
All this piping and v mount this and that...well, it's just too much.
Do these things: a) make sure your coolant is topped up; b) watch temp gauge and stop when too high; c) after hard driving allow the turbo to slow before shut down and also open your hood to release hot engine temperature that also saves your hoses from cracking due to extreme temps.
Finally, the best time to enjoy our rotary is in cool temps and not "punching the gas" in hot conditions. Rotary engines will always run hot, nothing we can do about that because of the design ("Nature Of The Beast"); however, with understanding we can enjoy and appreciate the unique machine for what it is.
08-03-09, 01:07 PM
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This lot has been covered on MazdaRotaryClub, there is a load of info, backed up by one of the big tuners over here Dragon. The sensor we are all buying has been checked out by the big hp motors. Dragons the fastest in Europe! If you can be bothered to read it, check the advert on Ebay. The chap is an Engineer and knows his stuff -been selling for 3 years no problems. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...STRK:MESELX:IT
Anyway he reckons the best place to have the sensor is the standard location, thats where mine is. 400hp at the wheels, no heat soak.
Anyway he reckons the best place to have the sensor is the standard location, thats where mine is. 400hp at the wheels, no heat soak.
08-03-09, 01:56 PM
#73
The fast reacting sensor I've been supplying seems to work well in the stock location for me as well. I used a little Teflon tape to help add an imaginary heat barrier (lol) as well as keep it sealed. I recommend to clock the sensor so that the air can pass through it and not hit the plastic cage. Those of you that have the sensor know what I'm referring to. I shipped out a bunch more sensors today so hopefully more people will report back in the other thread where they mount it and the correction tables they are using. Some logs would be nice too. I'll try to get some logs posted myself as well.
11-18-10, 10:24 PM
#75
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before I popped my motor I put in dude's fast reacting IAT and it worked flawlessly, when the car was getting hot air, it showed hot, when it got cold, it showed cold, almost instantly, it was fantastic. I remember seeing it go from 35ish celsius while idling on a cool night (ambient around 50F) to displaying 20ish celsius rather quickly once I got moving and the air was flowing through my FMIC. I will continue using it once the car is back together, and it was and will still be in the stock location.