Two more reasons why these cars blow up
#76
amemiya7
iTrader: (6)
I am glad this thread was made.I was wondering why guys say that smic are a good upgrade when it still sits on top of the radiator getting baked by all that heat. I made a thread where no one responded asking if it was a good idea for me to relocate my radiator so it can blow downward like if i had a v mount while still using the stock intercooler.
Rotary Experiment Seven.Let me ask you,I am thinking of getting water injection in the future, if i replace the AIT to before the intake would i need install the W/I nozzle before or after the AIT?
and is it a good idea to get water injection even if i am not pushing 400+HP?
I am more concern with cooling and having a healthy engine.
sorry for all the question.
Rotary Experiment Seven.Let me ask you,I am thinking of getting water injection in the future, if i replace the AIT to before the intake would i need install the W/I nozzle before or after the AIT?
and is it a good idea to get water injection even if i am not pushing 400+HP?
I am more concern with cooling and having a healthy engine.
sorry for all the question.
but if u install a smic properly .......they actually serve the purpose for wat they are put in ........rather than getting baked
i have a greddy SMIC.. it was installed in japan... and they installed it on an angel .. more like a v mount set up but just the diffrence that it is SM and slanted a bit forward on and angle so the air rushes in
#78
Searching for 10th's
iTrader: (11)
After re-reading the first post, thought I would post temps from a recent day on the Dyno.
This was in August, and it was hot that day - 101f in the shop.
Car is an FD with cooling and oil mods from Pineapple racing.
Single Turbo T04S running 13 lbs
Custom Vmount courtesy of afgmoto1978 - Koyo rad modified for dual Pass and custom IC
Mazmart water pump and tstat.
Temps on the dyno:
Water: 185f
Oil: 215f
This was in August, and it was hot that day - 101f in the shop.
Car is an FD with cooling and oil mods from Pineapple racing.
Single Turbo T04S running 13 lbs
Custom Vmount courtesy of afgmoto1978 - Koyo rad modified for dual Pass and custom IC
Mazmart water pump and tstat.
Temps on the dyno:
Water: 185f
Oil: 215f
#81
I have the fast reacting AIT, don't trust the stock one. Stock position is closest to the engine, this is where you want to see the temps. Best position for AI (post turbo)injector is just before the TB so it still aromatise and the AIT sees the cooler air ;-)
#82
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I don't understand this part. If the computer is getting a false reading off the heat-soaked intake manifold, wouldn't it think that the charge-temp is too hot? Thus adding fuel to prevent detonation?
#83
Brap..
iTrader: (2)
But hotter = less dense air.
At a common pressure, the less dense air will have fewer oxygen molecules. Therefore less fuel will be injected into the engine since there isn't as much oxygen for the fuel to burn with.
If they didn't reduce the amount of fuel injected, some of it would not burn, having a negative impact on emissions. It's an emissions control basically.
#90
Mission Impossible
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I had a discussion with some friends about this and one insists the best location is after the intercooler to measure the correct temp going into the engine bay. When I asked about the negatives of water or meth inj. coming after the IAT he said it doesn't matter because there is also fuel being injected into the engine which also has a different temp/cooling affect which you can't calculate.
I also talked about this with the guy who made my gauges and he says stock location is fine because a proper sensor (eg. fast acting iat) will read the air passing through even if the body of the sensor is heated due to crappy location.
I think I'll stick with the stock location because it's easier to install, no drilling etc.
I also talked about this with the guy who made my gauges and he says stock location is fine because a proper sensor (eg. fast acting iat) will read the air passing through even if the body of the sensor is heated due to crappy location.
I think I'll stick with the stock location because it's easier to install, no drilling etc.
#91
Not read more then the first page but doesnt problem #1 need a stock ecu or a aftermarket ecu using the stock sensor? We all know what happens if you run a stock ecu and upgrade your car 'to much'. Running an aftermarket ecu should mean that you've got it properly tuned and this problem shouldnt appear. As far as i know the PFC shows the sensor values but dont actually adjust the fuel/timing according to them.
#92
All out Track Freak!
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Not read more then the first page but doesnt problem #1 need a stock ecu or a aftermarket ecu using the stock sensor? We all know what happens if you run a stock ecu and upgrade your car 'to much'. Running an aftermarket ecu should mean that you've got it properly tuned and this problem shouldnt appear. As far as i know the PFC shows the sensor values but dont actually adjust the fuel/timing according to them.
The base map is super safe if the boost is kept at 10psi and you'll get much better gas mileage which will pay for your PFC
#93
wannaspeed.com
iTrader: (23)
Not read more then the first page but doesnt problem #1 need a stock ecu or a aftermarket ecu using the stock sensor? We all know what happens if you run a stock ecu and upgrade your car 'to much'. Running an aftermarket ecu should mean that you've got it properly tuned and this problem shouldnt appear. As far as i know the PFC shows the sensor values but dont actually adjust the fuel/timing according to them.
#98
wannaspeed.com
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I have a plug n play harness that plugs directly into the factory harness, and a pigtail harness if you want to splice and solder it direct to your harness. The sensor uses the exact same resistance curve as the stock sensor so no tuning is required at all. It will do everything the stock sensor does except it does it within seconds instead of minutes. Some people even run it on the stock ecu and said it make the car run better. But to really reap the full potential of the sensor it's recommended to tune the air temp correction tables. This is usually done as the seasons change. IE tune first during summer then again during winter. Or winter then summer. This will insure your A/F ratio is consistent during temperature changes. It's really easy to tune this when using the aftermarket sensors.
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