mecman

iTrader: (11)

My turbo is beginning to leak oil. It is almost the only thing I haven't replaced or repaired including and engine rebuild 5 years ago. From what I read on the forum it does not seem to make sense to rebuild these kind of turbos. It is either buy new ones or get a low mileage used one. I did pick up a used one last year just in case my turbos gave out which I think is now. So my question is how to remove and replace the turbo? Is the only way to pull the engine or can it be done with the engine still in the car? If it can be done with the engine in the car? If it can be done with engine removal, does anyone have instructions on how to accomplish this?

SpinningDorito

iTrader: (2)

Not sure about removing them with the engine in the car, but this thread is my gold standard when I have any questions about how to remove something, or I forgot to take pictures of something I did remove.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...hd-fd-1077031/

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

They aren't bad to remove in the car. It's totally possible to do. Most of the hard stuff is hard even if you pull the engine - usually the downpipe is the real bitch to get off and that has to come out regardless.

Short version of removing turbos -

- Remove air box, all hoses between air box and turbos
- Remove air pump
- Remove crossover intercooler pipe
- Remove secondary turbo inlet pipe (sometimes easier to get to the nuts from below)
- Remove Y-pipe from turbos
- Remove downpipe
- Remove 2 coolant hoses going to turbos
- Disconnect oil feed line on top of turbos
- Disconnect 2 oil drains on bottom, one from back of block, one going to front cover
- Remove all the nuts (most 14mm, 1 12mm) holding turbo to manifold.
- Remove 2 long bolts holding turbos to manifold
- Wiggle turbos off manifold and remove from above

Soak all the exhaust bolts/nuts in PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil (WD-40 is NOT a good penetrating oil) and let it get in there. You may pull out some studs or have a stud break, be prepared for that, there are threads on replacing the turbo studs and nuts.

I would also be prepared to put the car down for a bit so once the turbos are off if you need some parts you have time to get them ordered in.

Removing the twins isn't the most fun thing ever but it's not terrible. It would probably take me 1-2 hours depending on how big of a fight the fasteners put up.

Dale

FEED AFFLUX v5

iTrader: (5)

They 100% can be removed and reinstalled with the engine still in the car. This was my winter job I just completed.

However it is not a small task. Especially if doing it with the car on jack stands like I did ( I wish I had a lift!)

before you start I advise you get all the one time use gaskets & crush is washers etc. personally I also recommend all new studs and nuts for the turbo to manifold and downpipe to turbo connections. They are a pain to remove and you will regret putting an old one back in and snapping it.

the FSM was a big help to me. I recommend you download a copy. But basically you lift the car, drain the oil and coolant, remove the intakes all the way including y pipe and the BOV & CRV etc. Then pull the down pipe ( lucky you no steering shaft in the way lol) the heat shields and then the turbos. Then do the reverse.

i recommend soaking the downpipe/turbo stud/nuts with pb blaster or liquid wrench or something to loosen them up. They can snap easily so be careful and go slow. Extra time spent being careful will save many hours if you snap one.

also labelling/ marking vacuum lines etc will help as you take it all apart

best of luck, you can do it 👍

FEED AFFLUX v5

iTrader: (5)

Lol took me so long to type Dale already responded.....

do do what he says and you won’t go wrong 💪

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

The downpipe nuts are tough, other than that it’s not that bad of a job with the engine in the car.

Brekyrself

iTrader: (30)

As mentioned above, not an issue to do them with the engine in the car. They are very heavy so have to be careful lifting them out and installing the new set on the studs.

There will be numerous trips below the car to reach certain nuts/bolts so have the jack stands high. Good time to replace quite a few gaskets/hoses/crush washers if they were not replaced when the engine was rebuilt.

Engine > Manifold Gaskets
Engine > manifold studs/nuts

Manifold > turbo gaskets
Manifold > Turbo studs/nuts/bolts

Turbo > downpipe gasket
Turbo> downpipe studs/bolts depending on the downpipe

Turbo oil drain gaskets

Turbo oil line crush washers & banjo bolts

Turbo Coolant line crush washers & banjo bolts
Turbo coolant feed and return hoses/clamps

Compressor inlet gaskets
Compressor outlet gaskets

y pipe o-ring
y-pipe gasket if using the newer efini y pipe

Check/replace silicone hoses to and from the turbos. They can tear easily when disassembling.

Check to make sure the OMP is not leaking, which means crush washers and the o-ring


Does your AC work? If not, its easier to start replacing the o-rings on the ac lines near the turbos. Same goes with the coolant hoses to the heater core.

chapi199

Great info guys. I’m also to that same task.

mecman

iTrader: (11)

Thanks so much for info guys! This forum is a lifesaver. I just completed a rear suspension and rear brake rebuild so I was not planning on another project this summer. Last summer I resealed the oil pan so when I saw this oil leak I was quite bummed. But with your help I will give it my best shot.

SpinningDorito

iTrader: (2)

Can confirm, jobs is not that bad. After reading this thread I decided F it, and pulled mine since they are leaking all sorts of things.

Granted my downpipe bolts are not baked on or anything. Took about 4 hours to follow all the steps above, doing it for the first time (that includes also pulling my exhaust manifold)

It will probably take me longer to source all the gaskets/studs and decide which type of twins I want to install.