tphan

Have seached but come up empty...

Could someone provide info on how to remove/install twin turbo. Trying to decide whether to do the BNR Stage 3 upgrade myself or leave it up to Gotham (of course Steve will tune it).

TIA

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not a write-up, but you can see the bolts which hold the assembly (aside from the coolant line):

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-twin-turbo-nuts-bolts-locations-485829/

Buzzardsluck

I assume the engine is in the car?

I don't have a write up for you but can say that removing them is not hard at all IF[U][B] no problems arise. You just need to hope your studs come out without much effort.

Im no expert but have removed the turbos a couple times. Ill just assume you can remove your intake and all the other piping "stuff" that sits on the turbos.

Disconnect the oil feed lines (disconnect the tops at the turbos so oil doesnt come out), and the water lines. Discoennect all the various vacuum hoses (marking them is never a bad idea ) Then remove the dp (I think take out the top two studs so you can rotate the dp off).

Now your set to remove the nuts, you will need a 14mm and a 12mm for the small nut. I think I used a 1/2" socket with a 3" extension and maybe needed to break out the 3/8".
Just follow the picture of where the nuts are and you should be fine. I hope for your sake that torque specs were followed! If your studs come out or your replacing all of them, I would suggest making sure that all the threads in the manifold accept the studs without a problem. I had two seperate threads get messed up and had to lay under the car ******* lapping them.

Once again Im not expert but I think I covered everything that needs to be done. Its really not that hard but theres little room to work and if you have problems it will add hours onto the job.

tphan

yes. Engine is in the car still.

Thanks for the information.

pincusa

iTrader: (1)

Have you looked at the Mazda manual? Thought they had a secion in there to do it

It's not that hard to do, just a handfull of bolts, but the working location makes it hard. If you can get your down pipe, and heat shields off, I'd say you're half way there. The rest are those bolts, the oil feed line (two 17mm wrenches needed and remember to hold the fixed line or you'll twist it) and the water feed and return lines. After that, it should come right out.
I've always had the engine out when doing the turbo, but I'm sure you can do it in the car as well.
Another thing, make sure you don't cross thread any of those bolts/nuts. They are course threads and will strip very easily.

tphan

Major concern would be getting those bolts off...car have 53K miles. Change DP w/o having any problem with the bolts...

pincusa

iTrader: (1)

Well, the good thing is there're big bolts so a smaller risk of them breaking (though they might) They aren't torqued that much, so if you can't get them to move, stop and get some heat on them. An acetylene torch is always a good thing to have.
But I'd say give it a try. If they break, at least you'll be able to get the parts out!

windom

iTrader: (1)

The hardest part I found was the little oil return line bolts. Someone recommended a little swivel 10mm socket extension. I bought one, and it was easy.

tphan

I better leave thing as is...car is running like a champ at 12.6 psi (PFC's high setting)...

Enclosed is a picture of an exhaust manifold with broken bolt when separating a set of twins...

Up the creek w/o a paddle...let's leave it alone. For now.