turbo system simplification
turbo system simplification
I took my car apart to do a few common mods like install all the block-off plates, resistors, and eliminate emissions and unnecessary vacum lines. I got myself in deep trouble. I took apart a perfectly running car and have no idea how to put it back together. My only hope is to strip everything and put it back together based on the turbo system simplification diagram on Rob Robinette's site. Does anybody have any advice? I don't really understand how the sequential system work, although I am trying and I wouldn't mind going non-sequential if it makes everything easier to put together. I have a 94 stock with intake exhaust and clutch. I plan on running the stock ECU and intercooler. I just want 10 psi and 300 rwhp sequential or non. Please help me put my car together. What should I do? I took off the UIM, TB, Y-pipe and I have no idea where all the vacum lines go back. I am trying to eliminate most of them anyway. I am struggling to take off the rat's nest and having major problems removing the ACV.
As for what to put back, basically, use the normal sequential diagram and don't put back anything that has to do with emissions.
As far as removing the rats nest, there are two ways to do it:
1. Get those tiny screws out
2. Remove the entire rack
The problem with #1 is those screws can end up stripping.
The problem with #2 is you'll have to undo the fuel lines, which can be a pain.
Either way you do it, replace those screws with something else like allen bolts.
The ACV is held on with 3 bolts. One is a pain to get at underneath on the right side with the rats nest in place (if you are standing on the drivers side of the engine bay looking at it). However, you can do it. If you are going to remove it without removing the rats nest, I would suggest putting a little piece of tape inside your 10mm socket. That way the bolt won't drop into the abyss when it comes off.
As far as removing the rats nest, there are two ways to do it:
1. Get those tiny screws out
2. Remove the entire rack
The problem with #1 is those screws can end up stripping.
The problem with #2 is you'll have to undo the fuel lines, which can be a pain.
Either way you do it, replace those screws with something else like allen bolts.
The ACV is held on with 3 bolts. One is a pain to get at underneath on the right side with the rats nest in place (if you are standing on the drivers side of the engine bay looking at it). However, you can do it. If you are going to remove it without removing the rats nest, I would suggest putting a little piece of tape inside your 10mm socket. That way the bolt won't drop into the abyss when it comes off.
Seems like you know exactly what I am going through. Yes the philips head screws on the rats nest are stripping. Yes the 3rd bolt on the ACV is near impossible to get. I was really down about this but I have the diagrams and plently of support so I will get this done.
For now I have to remove the rat's nest and ACV. I have to loosen the coil pack, right?
For now I have to remove the rat's nest and ACV. I have to loosen the coil pack, right?
Originally posted by Keisuke T.
For now I have to remove the rat's nest and ACV. I have to loosen the coil pack, right?
For now I have to remove the rat's nest and ACV. I have to loosen the coil pack, right?
dont go non seq you are almost there its not that hard to do the simplification. Theres one hose on the diagram thats yellow on the y pipe that goes to nowhere but except for that it was easy.
remember youll still need like 4 of the solenoids on the rats nest and make sure to use the correct ones they are labeled with colored circle stickers
if you are within 15 minutes of clearwater Id come look at it but thats unlikely
remember youll still need like 4 of the solenoids on the rats nest and make sure to use the correct ones they are labeled with colored circle stickers
if you are within 15 minutes of clearwater Id come look at it but thats unlikely
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Here is the diagram you'll need. I hate to burst your bubble but stock ecu is not designed ot handle 300 whp (around 345 hp at the crank), and certainly not at 10psi, with IC, intake, exhust, seq or not. Good luck trying though, if it happens you'll be the first and I want some of what your drinking. 
Vacuum hose diag (complete)

Vacuum hose diag (complete)
Last edited by Trexthe3rd; Jul 16, 2004 at 10:48 AM.
Thanks a lot for the support. I am pretty scared I will end up like Broken93 but I am determined to keep going because I know a lot of you have done it and it is not that hard. I have the tools and diagrams after all. I am trying to learn about the system as I go but I really just can't wait to simplify the whole setup so I can clearly see what everything does. Man I will be so happy if I get this thing running within the next 2 weeks or so. Well the stock ECU may not be built to handle 300 rwhp but I have certainly seen several FDs make 290 rwhp + with minor mods on a stock computer. regardless if I do not make the power I just want my car to run like it did before with a more simple setup. Thanks a lot for all the help and advice.
Last edited by Keisuke T.; Jul 16, 2004 at 10:55 AM.
Originally posted by SurgeMonster
dont go non seq you are almost there its not that hard to do the simplification. Theres one hose on the diagram thats yellow on the y pipe that goes to nowhere but except for that it was easy.
remember youll still need like 4 of the solenoids on the rats nest and make sure to use the correct ones they are labeled with colored circle stickers
if you are within 15 minutes of clearwater Id come look at it but thats unlikely
dont go non seq you are almost there its not that hard to do the simplification. Theres one hose on the diagram thats yellow on the y pipe that goes to nowhere but except for that it was easy.
remember youll still need like 4 of the solenoids on the rats nest and make sure to use the correct ones they are labeled with colored circle stickers
if you are within 15 minutes of clearwater Id come look at it but thats unlikely
Last edited by Keisuke T.; Jul 16, 2004 at 11:03 AM.
wrong hose diagram
If you compare all of those colored hose diagrams for the turbo's and compare it to the diagram in the manual from page 8 in the fuel emissions section you will find out that they are DIFFERENT. Go by the manual as this is correct. The mian difference's are for the relief and charge control solenoids
Be aware
Be aware
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