Hello.
I'm perhaps going to purchase a RX-7 3rd Generation, but I have some questions for you. I want to increase the amount of hp, and was wondering what you would have done to tune your Rx-7. I was looking forward to tune it to perhaps 300-400 bhp. Any ideas to get this cheap and safe?

 

Buy a corvette, or gto, or something else, ull get there safer.

or maybe sti 300 stock bhp. or evo

 

Nah
I want a rx7, but I want more "gun powder" into the engine. I have seen FD's with 700 bhp, so I cant see it as a problem to squize out 300 bhp.

 

putting gun powder in the engine might make it explode. be careful dude.

 

Reliability mods first.

Those alone will help increase the longevity of the motor, and mods like dp, exhaust, FMIC, and the tunability of a PFC will help increase power.

For the 400 range you'd really want to end upgrading the twins, or go single, secondaries, fuel-pump, PFC, FMIC, radiator, and proper tuning.

 

Saburo: It was a expression.

YoshiFC3S: Thanks for the reply, it was the kind of reply I was hoping for. When you mentioned the "reliability mods", do you think I need a new(bigger) AC and Intercooler for these mods?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

 

Well theres not many of those on 2 rotors, they are running very high boost on race gas so yeah...unless its a drag car or something pretty pointless. If you want 300hp just do all the bolt-ons on stock twins and get a tune, ull be there easy.

PS, search the newbie section for the love of god.

 

It's actually quite simple. Though there are many many threads that explain in great detail what mods should be done to increase reliability and performance. They ALMOST work hand and hand...heh, reliability can increase performance, though usually not vise versa. lol

I'd say down-pipe and catback exhaust would be good, first. Eliminate that engine bay heatsoak.

Next should be the AST (Air-Separation Tank). I went with Pettit Racing, myself.

Next step for me is the FC thermoswitch mod, so that the fans come on MUCH sooner. Heavy traffic REALLY sucks in these cars.

IMO, it's hard to say what next, because personally I would want to upgrade the radiator and intercooler at the same time, however at that point, with so much air-flow, it would probably also be safe to go ahead and get a Power FC. Regardless of whether or not you're running stock seq. twins or non-sequential, it's not necessarily "If you run 12psi on stock ECU you fuel-cut." but from what I've read, it makes more sense to say it's measured more on the intake temps/CFM you're actually getting.

Lets say stock boost with stock everything VS. stock boost with FMIC, radiator, and exhaust.

The 2nd car with those mods will have increased air-flow, and lower intake temps in general with the FMIC, which in itself might cause the ECU to lean itself out and hit fuel-cut. Again, from what I've read, it makes sense, and I'd have to agree.

Like MakoRacing said, 300hp is easy though. Stock twins with just basic BPU's and a little tuning, and you're there.

Yeah...

 

Ok ! Thanks everyone!
It looks that it is easy, and cheep to increase the amount of power. Thanks for all the answers, It was a great help.

 

Common use a search button.

Secondly ask yourself some questions.....

Why do you want more horsepower?
Do you need more horsepower?
Can you afford more horsepower? (Not just parts and install but if something breaks)

Ok you have a stock ride here is what you should buy or do....

1- Good gas I used to live in Europe and according to what I remember Shell, Repsol and BP all sell 98 Octane get that at every tank up.
2- Read owners manual at least twice
3- Check oil at everyfillup.
4- Since Norway I think has same kind of geography and climates as Canada I would say use 10w30 oil not the 20w50 that others use.
5- Take a race driving class, too many people can't handle the extra "oumf".
6- Pettit or other metal AST, Fluidyne or Koyo Radiator (Fluidyne is an easie install), Vacuum hose job (either Hose Techniques or Rotory Extreme sell the kit for 118$), Boost gauge, temp guage air and water, oil press guage.
7- With your power range I would go for the BNR Stage 3's you will have a wider power band. Or if you want a single I would go 25G is the size Re Amemiya uses because of better response.
8- I would personally choose a V Mount setup rather than a FM. So Rotary Extreme or HKS V Mount.
9- Intakes, Hks because of the V Mount.
10- Hard pipes everywhere with some good Silicone couplers, split couplers = major frown for you.
11- Boost controller, Profec B works great but some upgrade to E-01
12- Change out the whole fuel rail, I would go with RE's kit for this.
13- Stand alone system, Apexi or Haltech, Haltech is more expensive but uses its own wiring harness = security.
14- TUNED, the better your tune the safer your ride will be.
15- Lastly some would add water injection to prevent detonation.
16- Foot work, if its an old car change all trailing arms etc. again I would go to RE for this link arm and trail arm kit. Some would get shocks and coils I would go for a coilover system. Most would choose Zeal or Tien. Personally I would go for either Tien because of HDFC or Apex'i, but thats personal choice.
17- KAAZ Differential to control all this new power.
18- New clutch to control all this new torque.
19- Flywheel to match revs and apply more of that new power to the ground.
20- Change clutch and diff fluids to synthetic, Neo or Redline.
21- Wheels and Tires, some wide in the back to again put the power to the ground and some wide in the front to not have the rear spin out in a corner.
22- And I almost forgot Exhaust lol my choice would be a HKS Downpipe, Resonated midpipe and Apexi N1 Dual Catback.

I am sure I forgot something but thats what I would look at buying. Kinda similar to actually what I am gonna be looking at once the car is paid off.

Isn't cheap but power and safe. Remember what makes power is Air and Fuel. So Intake, Exhaust, Injectors, Turbo are important. What destroys your engine is high temps. and detonantion so this is why radiator, intercooler, fuel filter quality are important. Also since you wanna live I presume staying on the road is important that is why all the other parts.

Again like someone else said if you are thinking power go for another car. What made and makes the Rx-7 great are balance. So if you want a great car look for balance in your build. Notice a 380hp Rx-7 Smacks the **** out of a 600 HP Skyline on the Touge Battles and a 450 hp Rx-7 kills a 650 hp Supra so remeber balance and drive safe.

On a personal note the manufacturers I would trust most are TRUST/Greddy, Apex'i, Re Amemiya, Rotary Extreme, Pre-Auto for Body, Falken or Yokohama, and wheels Rays, CCW, Fiske.

Good luck and remember always keep enough money to buy another engine.

 

A lot of good points in what he is saying, but a important one is taking some sort of driving class if your looking to further increase your power past 300 in the future. Also a Vmount would be a better choice as stated (IMHO) and personally I like Rotary extremes vmount, I believe it may be cheaper, It comes with a Koyo radiator(I dont believe hks's comes with a rad, not positive tho), and the radiator angle on hks's vmount is too flat so the rad doesnt get as much air as rotary extremes. But yea everything else he said is good too.

 

Thanks

and HKS's does come with a Radiator.

 

Start by reading the FAQs. Its the 2nd or 3rd link at the top of the 3rd gen forum. It has lots of good info. Then check out the "3rd Gen Archives" section of the 3rd gen forum. Lots of good info there too.

A lot of people are going to recommend the Power FC b/c it is tunable. However, the tune is only as good as the person tuning it and there aren't that many good turbo rotary tuners out there. Out of the box it is good for a specific set of mods. The other ECUs from Pettit, PFS, M2 etc were pretty good too and well tuned for a specific set of mods. If you don't have someone that you KNOW is experienced at tuning turbo rotaries, I'd recommend one of the non programmable ECUs.

300 or low 300s is pretty safe provided the car is well maintained and has a good coolant system. Generally, the higher HP you look for the more you stress the engine and decrease longevity.

start by doing a compression test to get an idea of the overall health of your engine. then go from there.

 

spend money wisely buying and modding an FD?? bwwhhahaahhahaahaaaaaahahahaa


seriously now, I'm at 315whp with CAI, IC, DP, CB, HKS TP, Walbro FP, Remapped ECU and boost controller set at 0.86 bar

But before I upped power I upgraded important reliability parts like big radiator with Evans NPG+, AST eliminated, Miata thermoswitch (before it was discovered that the FC worked there), CWR twin oil coolers, Royal purple fluids everywhere, etc

The problem is knowing when to stop spending money on the car...

I've bought new rotors and pads, wheel$ and tire$, front lip and rear wing, sideskirts, rear mudguards, short shifter, engine troque brace, hood dampers, suspension, etc. Stuff that doesn't add any power but makes the car more unike and personally customized.

 

www.fd3s.cc look under how too's and it will tell you how to get 400hp.

 

FD, Lots of HP, CHeap and Easy,

Just to scare you, I have well over $20k beyond the purchase price of my FD, into the car, and all I wanted was 400HP on a single turbo, something everybody told me if I did it "Right" I could have, well I spent the "Right" kind of money to do it, but apparently with the "Wrong" prople... since I never got there.... and I'm looking at another $ 7-8K bill for a rebuild... my second....

 

i'm having the same problem with ~350HP...

 

I just want to say welcome to Norway.... a new corvette cost alot of money here, so much tax and stuff.. In norway a new corvette z06 costs over 240 000$ and in us it cost around 66 000, thats a big difference..

 

Ok he didn't know Vauxhaul GTO is what he intended. Hell if I was in Norway it would be TVR Sagaris here I come I don't care what it takes I would own it. Orange TVR thats the way.

 

Damnnnnn