Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!
#51
PV = nRT
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Look, there is a huge issue with the non-linerarity of throttle to actual torque delivered to the wheels. While non-linearity is inherent to any forced induction system, we would rather have predictable non-linearity. Parallel operation without a transition offers this 100% of the time. Single turbo offers this 100% of the time. Serial turbos do not - atleast in Mazdas implementation.
You apply throttle in a non-seq or single turbo car, the torque is predictable even when generating positive pressure. With a stock FD3S sequential setup you're essentially gauging based on load (essentially guessing) when the second turbo will spool up and provide additional CFM to the system.
This is kooky and not preferred for any serious performance driving - especially anything involving lateral traction forces.
If you're more interested in ricky-racing around town and/or chopping up lanes on the freeway to impress the Impreza next to you, then have fun with sequential.
You apply throttle in a non-seq or single turbo car, the torque is predictable even when generating positive pressure. With a stock FD3S sequential setup you're essentially gauging based on load (essentially guessing) when the second turbo will spool up and provide additional CFM to the system.
This is kooky and not preferred for any serious performance driving - especially anything involving lateral traction forces.
If you're more interested in ricky-racing around town and/or chopping up lanes on the freeway to impress the Impreza next to you, then have fun with sequential.
#52
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XST,
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
#53
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by XSTransAm
they are worth more than the 3 random dyno graphs posted on the link above.
they are worth more than the 3 random dyno graphs posted on the link above.
Brooks Weisblat's car was very well known, featured in magazines, and put down 364 RWHP. Brad Barber's car was also well known, also featured in magazines, and put down 367 RWHP, IIRC. My friend Brian's R2 was converted to non-sequential properly, and is a perfect example of the boost response of a non-seq. car done "right". These are not "random" dyno graphs.
BTW, you have heard of SAE correction, haven't you?
I run non sequential and I hate it, (compaired to stock sequential) end of story... anyone who thinks that they will be happier with it, enjoy.
#54
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by XSTransAm
And here is the graph of non sequential with full catless exhaust and with stock cat... still not worth the loss IMO
And here is the graph of non sequential with full catless exhaust and with stock cat... still not worth the loss IMO
#55
Originally posted by clayne
XST,
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
XST,
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
#56
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Originally posted by jimlab
Three random dyno graphs? Thanks for proving how long you've been around the FD community.
Brooks Weisblat's car was very well known, featured in magazines, and put down 364 RWHP. Brad Barber's car was also well known, also featured in magazines, and put down 367 RWHP, IIRC. My friend Brian's R2 was converted to non-sequential properly, and is a perfect example of the boost response of a non-seq. car done "right". These are not "random" dyno graphs.
Three random dyno graphs? Thanks for proving how long you've been around the FD community.
Brooks Weisblat's car was very well known, featured in magazines, and put down 364 RWHP. Brad Barber's car was also well known, also featured in magazines, and put down 367 RWHP, IIRC. My friend Brian's R2 was converted to non-sequential properly, and is a perfect example of the boost response of a non-seq. car done "right". These are not "random" dyno graphs.
And I didnt lose power, I gained it with the midpipe. The graph is showing a gain in spool, but thanks for jumping on me for that one too.
The reason I even posted on this one was because it was starting to look like an "everyone should go non-sequential thread" and some newer people were chiming in and sounding like they wanted to do it cause it was the right thing. I was adding the other half of the argument. Either way ill be living the single turbo life soon so there is no argument.
The only thing I dont understand about this thread is the personal attacks.
#57
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Originally posted by jimlab
If there's any loss, it's because something is wrong with your car. You are aware that a sequential car is basically the same as non-sequential after the transition, right?
If there's any loss, it's because something is wrong with your car. You are aware that a sequential car is basically the same as non-sequential after the transition, right?
#58
FD3Rotor
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Originally posted by clayne
XST,
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
XST,
I really recommend, if you're seriously interested in non-seq, to perform the full modifications to the manifold, wastegate, and flapper doors.
It's also necessary to remove the CCV - another flow restriction when open.
#59
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by XSTransAm
I am very aware of sae correction as ive personally set up and run a dyno over 100 times. I said three random dyno graphs because you CANT compair them to eachother, its not a fair compairison.
I am very aware of sae correction as ive personally set up and run a dyno over 100 times. I said three random dyno graphs because you CANT compair them to eachother, its not a fair compairison.
but thanks for pouncing on me?
And I didnt lose power, I gained it with the midpipe. The graph is showing a gain in spool, but thanks for jumping on me for that one too.
The only thing I dont understand about this thread is the personal attacks.
It would be extremely difficult to convert a car to non-sequential properly and test back-to-back in one day unless you had an extra exhaust manifold, set of turbos, block off plates, and an upper inake manifold just standing by, already converted.
#60
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There are other threads where this non vs seq debate can be discussed. Can we get back to talking about the diagram? This was a good informative read until midway the second page where the old debate started again.
#64
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well there are basically three flappers...the one on the manifold (between the engine and the turbos) needs to be removed or welded full open.....recommend removing for safety reasons (you're stupid not to, its restriction). The second is the precontrol flapper, needs to be welded or braced open at about 90% to cause smooth flow to the secondary turbo. Third flapper is the Wastegate, Primary turbo has to be removed from the housing and then you'll see the wastegate door, which needs to be machined to 1.24 or 1.25 for boost safety.
And thats the flappers....figure the rest out by searching...like I did
And thats the flappers....figure the rest out by searching...like I did
#65
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by TTBullet
does boost control box connect to any other line other than 2 dark blue line?
does boost control box connect to any other line other than 2 dark blue line?
#66
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Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo
dude your freakin awesome!!!! i was jus going to ask everyone for a good diagram to do this! i have been wanting to do it for a little while now!
couple of questions tho:
1.do you take the "rats nest" out?
2. i heard that your suppose to use alot of blockoff plates. if so where do you get them at?
3. what do you use to cap all the nipples
4. are you suppose to have the primary WG capped off? and why?
thanks
dude your freakin awesome!!!! i was jus going to ask everyone for a good diagram to do this! i have been wanting to do it for a little while now!
couple of questions tho:
1.do you take the "rats nest" out?
2. i heard that your suppose to use alot of blockoff plates. if so where do you get them at?
3. what do you use to cap all the nipples
4. are you suppose to have the primary WG capped off? and why?
thanks
Just run silicone lines directly between the points in the diagram. Also to make it easy, get a pack of multiple colored zip ties, so you can color code your hoses with them at each connection. This makes trouble shooting without a diagram much much easier.
2. I got mine at rx7store.net and they fit perfectly. I used high temp silicone gasket maker for the seal.
3. Try to find some heavy duty rubber caps. I found mine at autozone. Get an assortment of sizes between 1/8th to 1/2.
4.No, the primary wastegate must be able to sense manifold pressure to open. Run a line from the wastegate to the intake manifold (be sure not to use the 4 nipples on the UIM that just pass through as mentioned before in this thread)
If you do not have a boost controller (which you should) than just place the stock restrictor pill in the line, close to the wastegate.
#67
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Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo
and also i dont have a "gas filter" thats goes between the vacuum line going to the pressure sensor... is this bad?
and also i dont have a "gas filter" thats goes between the vacuum line going to the pressure sensor... is this bad?
#68
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Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo
i understand that you have to port the waste gates to 1.42" (correct me if im wrong) but how do you port the manifold and what do you port it to, and also what modifaction do you do to your flapper doors? im just trying to learn cause i really wanna go NS. thanks a ton
i understand that you have to port the waste gates to 1.42" (correct me if im wrong) but how do you port the manifold and what do you port it to, and also what modifaction do you do to your flapper doors? im just trying to learn cause i really wanna go NS. thanks a ton
Basically for the manifold you must grind out a tube in the flow path. and port the channel between the two exhaust paths.
Also port match the manifold with the turbo housings. Also the primary must be ported to a similar size as the secondary (or vice versa, I cant quite remember)
I will check into it more for you.
#70
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Originally posted by fc1jz
4.No, the primary wastegate must be able to sense manifold pressure to open. Run a line from the wastegate to the intake manifold (be sure not to use the 4 nipples on the UIM that just pass through as mentioned before in this thread)
If you do not have a boost controller (which you should) than just place the stock restrictor pill in the line, close to the wastegate.
4.No, the primary wastegate must be able to sense manifold pressure to open. Run a line from the wastegate to the intake manifold (be sure not to use the 4 nipples on the UIM that just pass through as mentioned before in this thread)
If you do not have a boost controller (which you should) than just place the stock restrictor pill in the line, close to the wastegate.
Run a line from one the nipples on the compressor housing to an inline solenoid, bleeder valve, to the wastegate. These control lines are on the compressor housing just for this reason. Running to the UIM will decrease wastegate response and accuracy (stock IC/piping has a drop of around 3-4 psi based on what I've seen).
#71
FD3Rotor
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Originally posted by fc1jz
This is piece is pretty important because I am sure you have seen oily residue in your intake manifold. After time this will build up at the pressure sensor and could possibly cause problems. I would suggest cleaning the pressure sensor out regularly with some sort of spray that is safe for these types of components.
This is piece is pretty important because I am sure you have seen oily residue in your intake manifold. After time this will build up at the pressure sensor and could possibly cause problems. I would suggest cleaning the pressure sensor out regularly with some sort of spray that is safe for these types of components.
#73
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Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo
can I buy one of these at a local auto store? or do i have to go thro mazda?
can I buy one of these at a local auto store? or do i have to go thro mazda?
#74
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by clayne
Run a line from one the nipples on the compressor housing to an inline solenoid, bleeder valve, to the wastegate.
Run a line from one the nipples on the compressor housing to an inline solenoid, bleeder valve, to the wastegate.
With the valve inline (as you described), the valve acts by restricting the pressure going to the actuator. After the actuator (as I described), it acts by bleeding off pressure requiring more to overcome the actuator's internal spring. The results are basically the same, but if the inline valve is closed for whatever reason, the wastegate will never open. With the valve after the wastegate actuator, it means you'll just max out at 7 psi, and even full open, you probably will not exceed 15 psi. It's safer to put the valve after the actuator, especially if someone else works on your car periodically and might accidentally close it.
I ran a line from the nipple on the primary turbo elbow to my wastegate actuator and a second line from the actuator to a brass barbed fitting. I did have a Sharpe valve (round dial-type, typically used to control air pressure for automotive paint guns) on the end of the line attached to the fitting, but couldn't reach the boost level I wanted, even with it fully open. Eliminating the valve and just using the brass fitting (which provided enough restriction in the line) not only limited my boost to 14.5 psi, but made a piercing shriek at full "steam" which was kind of fun.
#75
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Originally posted by jimlab
Alternatively, you can run a vacuum line with no restriction from the primary compressor housing to one of the nipples of the wastegate actuator, and then run a second line from the second nipple on the actuator to a bleed valve.
With the valve inline (as you described), the valve acts by restricting the pressure going to the actuator. After the actuator (as I described), it acts by bleeding off pressure requiring more to overcome the actuator's internal spring. The results are basically the same, but if the inline valve is closed for whatever reason, the wastegate will never open. With the valve after the wastegate actuator, it means you'll just max out at 7 psi, and even full open, you probably will not exceed 15 psi. It's safer to put the valve after the actuator, especially if someone else works on your car periodically and might accidentally close it.
I ran a line from the nipple on the primary turbo elbow to my wastegate actuator and a second line from the actuator to a brass barbed fitting. I did have a Sharpe valve (round dial-type, typically used to control air pressure for automotive paint guns) on the end of the line attached to the fitting, but couldn't reach the boost level I wanted, even with it fully open. Eliminating the valve and just using the brass fitting (which provided enough restriction in the line) not only limited my boost to 14.5 psi, but made a piercing shriek at full "steam" which was kind of fun.
Alternatively, you can run a vacuum line with no restriction from the primary compressor housing to one of the nipples of the wastegate actuator, and then run a second line from the second nipple on the actuator to a bleed valve.
With the valve inline (as you described), the valve acts by restricting the pressure going to the actuator. After the actuator (as I described), it acts by bleeding off pressure requiring more to overcome the actuator's internal spring. The results are basically the same, but if the inline valve is closed for whatever reason, the wastegate will never open. With the valve after the wastegate actuator, it means you'll just max out at 7 psi, and even full open, you probably will not exceed 15 psi. It's safer to put the valve after the actuator, especially if someone else works on your car periodically and might accidentally close it.
I ran a line from the nipple on the primary turbo elbow to my wastegate actuator and a second line from the actuator to a brass barbed fitting. I did have a Sharpe valve (round dial-type, typically used to control air pressure for automotive paint guns) on the end of the line attached to the fitting, but couldn't reach the boost level I wanted, even with it fully open. Eliminating the valve and just using the brass fitting (which provided enough restriction in the line) not only limited my boost to 14.5 psi, but made a piercing shriek at full "steam" which was kind of fun.
I didn't address the end-of-loop scenario because I wanted the focus more so to be on "use the compressor vent NOT the intake manifold for WG control!".
The trick in having a "safe" situation with the restriction device pre-actuator is to use a solenoid valve with default state NO (normally open) with a vent port that is switched on and off based on duty cycle.
(that is if you're using the electronic route)