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I do not have friends here, I am alone in my garage.
That's sad
You could use a remote starter. I'd check to see if the plugs fire before spending a bunch of money replacing plugs/wires, and before trying starting fluid
You could use a remote starter. I'd check to see if the plugs fire before spending a bunch of money replacing plugs/wires, and before trying starting fluid
It is sad! I chose to leave my hometown only to get more money...
It is too late, I already ordered plugs and wires. And I already located somewhere 100 miles away to service my injectors.
This poor RX-7 is in trouble I'm telling you, it will have to start after all that!
This morning, while I'm waiting for the plugs and wires, I did some test on the injectors.
I left everything plugged in and i unbolted both fuel rails, so I can see the fuel spray.
Key OFF/ON multiple times, I put a rag under each injector to see if they leak. All rags stayed dried. PASS.
I cranked the engine to see if I've got a spray under each injector. Primaries are both firing while cranking. Secondaries are both NOT firing while cranking. Is it normal?
Observation: When I put key OFF/ON, sometimes I hear a "leaking liquid" sound. However, there is no visible leak anywhere, even under the injectors. I also had that sound before I rebuilt this engine for the 2nd time. It seems to have appeared since I change the defective fuel pump. Do you guys have any idea?
Secondaries only fire when the car is under load. Starting/idling will be just the primaries.
That sounds kind of like the fuel pump priming, the rail will re-pressurize with fuel. If you don't see, smell, or feel any gas leaks you're probably OK there.
Secondaries only fire when the car is under load. Starting/idling will be just the primaries.
That sounds kind of like the fuel pump priming, the rail will re-pressurize with fuel. If you don't see, smell, or feel any gas leaks you're probably OK there.
Dale
Thanks a lot. I'll have to get a window sticker with your name on it!
I'll just wait for new plugs and wires then. Hopefully that's gonna solve the actual issue.
I would still try the starting fluid without the injectors plugged in to see if it will fire briefly. There is a good chance your new plugs won't fix the issue and you will just ruin them
I'd also look into adding a fat ground wire from the engine block (probably center iron, there's some unused holes near the block drain plug at the bottom) to the chassis. I just am suspicious of the stock ground wire.
If the engine itself isn't well grounded you can have issues as well.
Also there is a ground on the ECU harness that bolts to the top of the engine (one of the rotor housings) - is that ground on and solid?
I would still try the starting fluid without the injectors plugged in to see if it will fire briefly. There is a good chance your new plugs won't fix the issue and you will just ruin them
I do not quite understand the idea. If I spray starting fluid in the LIM while someone is cranking, I know for a fact it will make some explosions. It already explodes (sometimes up to 700 RPM). I don't think I'm going to be able to make it idle with starting fluid? I don't know... I'm asking!
Originally Posted by DaleClark
I'd also look into adding a fat ground wire from the engine block (probably center iron, there's some unused holes near the block drain plug at the bottom) to the chassis. I just am suspicious of the stock ground wire.
If the engine itself isn't well grounded you can have issues as well.
Also there is a ground on the ECU harness that bolts to the top of the engine (one of the rotor housings) - is that ground on and solid?
Dale
2 grounds from the ECU harness, I put them on top of each rotor housing. I also added a fat braided ground strap from UIM to chassis. Honestly, right now, electricity on the car seems solid. Engine cranks faster than ever (210 RPM instead of 180 RPM before I opened the engine), fuses don't blow anymore, oil pressure gauge works fine... The car is way more enjoyable to work on now!
If you are getting explosions, then changing spark plugs won't fix it. Have you checked your timing?
I don't know how to check timing. Trigger wheel seems to be in good condition, other than that I am not really qualified to check timing on the Commander...
It should be hard to mess up, but there have definitely been occasions where timing got set up incorrectly by either an issue with the trigger wheel clocking, the angle sensors, or ecu settings.
Definitely worth looking up how to do a timing check and getting a timing light (they aren't expensive).
That could definitely result in excessive flooding an occasional firing but then failure to idle.
It should be hard to mess up, but there have definitely been occasions where timing got set up incorrectly by either an issue with the trigger wheel clocking, the angle sensors, or ecu settings.
Definitely worth looking up how to do a timing check and getting a timing light (they aren't expensive).
That could definitely result in excessive flooding an occasional firing but then failure to idle.
Everything is so clean on the car right now, I'm afraid I'm gonna have to do that if the new plugs and wires don't solve the problem. I never used a timing light so I'll have to do some research.
It should be hard to mess up, but there have definitely been occasions where timing got set up incorrectly by either an issue with the trigger wheel clocking, the angle sensors, or ecu settings.
Definitely worth looking up how to do a timing check and getting a timing light (they aren't expensive).
That could definitely result in excessive flooding an occasional firing but then failure to idle.
Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
Everything is so clean on the car right now, I'm afraid I'm gonna have to do that if the new plugs and wires don't solve the problem. I never used a timing light so I'll have to do some research.
Yes - I've heard of cases where that can happen on racecar engines when the trigger wheel was clocked wrong or the crank-trigger pickup was located wrong or faulty. Also, clearance between the trigger wheel and the pickup is critical - too far away or wavy trigger wheel, and you get a weak or missing signal.
If a car does not start, you need to check the basics - compression, fuel (in the housing), and spark (at the right time). For fuel, you can use starting fluid (floor the throttle so you're not overwhelming the engine). For spark, ground the plug on the block. If you know compression, fuel, and spark are good (check and verified (no assumptions)), then it has to be spark timing.
New spark plugs made the car start almost right away. I looked at the old plugs and 1 out of 4 seemed fairly dry, the other 3 were covered with black fuel. I'm assuming only 1 out of 4 was still firing.
Car ran for 12 minutes. It didn't hold the idle so I had to stop it, adjust the idle screw and start it again. I did that twice. Oil pressure was good.
I did set it at 1,500 RPM. Then I got confident and set it at 1,100 RPM. It ran for 3 minutes at 1,100 RPM, then stalled. Can't get it to start again. There's some kind of (maybe oil?) all over the place after the turbo. I know I've got an exhaust leak after the turbo, I'm wondering if it simply could be "rebuild oil" and transmission oil that I poured in, but it seems to have splashed everywhere in the area.
I couldn't see that when the engine was running, there was a HUGE cloud of smoke everywhere.
I also joined a picture of the brand new spark plugs that ran for 12 minutes. It does not smell like fuel, and I followed the unflooding procedure... no smoke is coming out of the engine now.
Oh, and who said low cranking speed? It is even faster now. I've never heard that engine cranking that fast.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 6, 2020 at 01:46 PM.
I'm wondering what all that oil is about. How do you have the PCV system set up - the nipples on the oil fill neck?
Could be the oil feed for the turbo is leaking/spraying.
When it was running did it seem to be running smoothly?
Dale
I'm happy to see it run. Engine has been street ported, so sound is a bit different than what is used to be. I don't like the fact that I had to tighten the screw all the way to get 1,500 RPM.
On the oil filler neck: top nipple goes to UIM via a valve (no clue which side it is), bottom nipple is blanked. Oil feed and return lines are notleaking. There doesn't seem to be any major drip on the floor. Oil level is still OK. I also had that exact same leak before I started the (2nd) rebuild.
Damn.. thats a lot of oil., be careful it might be fire hazard close to that down pipe and hot side. Check the OMP lines. If the oil came from the bottom had to be a good oil presure source.
You kind of have that setup backwards on the oil fill neck.
The '95's got rid of the PCV valve between the oil neck and the UIM. The bottom nipple, stock, goes to the turbo inlet duct. With that setup it's possible you're pressurizing the oil pan which will cause oil to get into the motor and back up into the turbo.
Short term I would remove the cap on the bottom pointing nipple and cap off the nipple on the UIM and oil neck that the PCV connects to. Long term look at a catch can - I have a small Jaz catch can that works great. Both oil neck nipples plumbed into the can with a small filter on the top.
Damn.. thats a lot of oil., be careful it might be fire hazard close to that down pipe and hot side. Check the OMP lines. If the oil came from the bottom had to be a good oil presure source.
I don't have the OMP anymore.
I'm pretty sure it comes from the flange right after the turbo. Turbo has failed before and I had blue smoke all over the place. I had to open it and replace a seal inside. It is a low quality turbo.
I just checked the oil level again, it is still pretty full.
It looks and feels like "burnt oil". It's very black too.
There seems to be oil inside the engine, and I think that's why I can't start it again. Do you guys think a turbo leak could be the reason why there is oil in the engine, even if I simply started the car (no boost or anything)?
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 6, 2020 at 05:06 PM.
You kind of have that setup backwards on the oil fill neck.
The '95's got rid of the PCV valve between the oil neck and the UIM. The bottom nipple, stock, goes to the turbo inlet duct. With that setup it's possible you're pressurizing the oil pan which will cause oil to get into the motor and back up into the turbo.
Short term I would remove the cap on the bottom pointing nipple and cap off the nipple on the UIM and oil neck that the PCV connects to. Long term look at a catch can - I have a small Jaz catch can that works great. Both oil neck nipples plumbed into the can with a small filter on the top.
Dale
I followed your advice YEARS ago and I bought a Jaz catch can... But it is still not installed though!
I searched a little bit and it seems like you are right. There should be no connection between UIM and oil filler neck... Hmmm...
So are you saying - for now I could put a cap on the UIM, put a cap on the top nipple of the filler neck, and leave the bottom nipple open in the air?
For now I don't want to add the catch can to the engine, I mean... I would like to make it run good for now, then I'll do it...
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; May 6, 2020 at 05:01 PM.
Do you have all the UIM to LIM hardware installed? In your picture with the oil I only see one bolt installed. Without them you will have a massive vacuum leak.
Do you have all the UIM to LIM hardware installed? In your picture with the oil I only see one bolt installed. Without them you will have a massive vacuum leak.
I only have one bolt installed from UIM to LIM. That's the only part that I didn't tighten, got tired of unbolting and bolting everything back and forth.
So I blocked off the UIM and upper nipple from filler neck, and left bottom nipple from filler neck open in the air.
I used the 4 new spark plugs, not a single explosion. Well, ok. I received 8 new spark plugs this morning, so I went ahead and installed the 4 other ones. Engine started faster than ever.
It is hard to tell if DaleClark's remark about the PCV valve fixed the oil leak (I didn't clean the turbo area). I think it did. I am not sure. The engine ran fine for 4 minutes at 1,500 RPM, I tried to give it some gas, it takes forever to go up in RPM. It reached 2,300 RPM, then it slowly... died. Spark plugs are pitch black again. Now I have to search how to properly clean the spark plugs.
