i have a friend in florida that has an 94 5 speed rx7, he takes it easy on his car mostly, and has few mods, he came to me with his problem, but i think i need to run this one by yall before i give hime advice.

he was going down the road the other day, Christmas day, taking it easy on the car, car was running normal, than it was difficult to shift in to 5th, and then about a mile later it would not go into gear at all while the motor was running, the the clutch pedal had no affect when pushed in, but there was still the normal amount of stiffness in the clutch pedal, you can cut the car off, and put it in gear but when you crank it, it will pull good, just no cluch control when you depress the clutch pedal, seems the clutch disc must not be worn totally, no smell, and no slipping, just cant change gears, and the clutch pedal has no affect,

heres the kicker, he said was pulling the tranny, to see what the deal was, and he has pulled the tranny a good 6 or 7 times, but the tranny will not pull from the motor, all bolts are out, seems to be seized in there.

did the pilot barring cause this?

motor mounts are in terrible condition too, lots of vibration and play in the tranny and motor, dont know if that helps,

thanks, let me know!

 

first try to put more clutch fluid. check the 5th synchro known for fd for 5th synchro. check your pressure plate, master cylinder, slave cylinder.

 

fluid good, no air, pressure plate is unbolted from flywheel, hanging freely, clutch disc too, all that stuff should come out easily with the tranny, on the things left is the input shaft from the tranny that is in the pilot barring, seized up? hmm, anybody?

thanks

paul

 

Mine didn't separate easy. I wedged between the housing and then pried the tranny back (after installing a new pilot bearing). Not sure if it's suppose to be that tight with a new pilot bearing and oil seal or not; but I checked for any kind of out of the ordinary damage and saw nothing. It was just that tight.

 

Sounds like the pilot brg. That would cause both of the problems you are having. When the car is running and the clutch is engaged the pilot keeps the tranny spining so it is as if the clutch is released. Also if it was locked up it would be gaulded to the input shaft keeping the tranny from coming out.

 

you have to push the lever on the tranny. its on the drivers side. once you push(or pull, cant remember) the tranny slides right off, you have to wiggle it alittle bit though.

these trannys are pull type not push. meaning they dont just slid off like the 2nd gen trannys. so you gotta move that lever in order for it to come off.(the easy way)

mahjik you should know what im talking about. i dont have the manual at hand so i forget the name of the parts, but its the thing that makes the clutch react, its has the hose connected to it, which runs up to the clutch fluid.
correct me if im wrong,but im pretty sure this is the way.
geoff


o ya, the lever is what disengauges the clutch so it stops graping the staft on the engine.

 

rx7raca,

I believe you are referring to the "wedge collar". He says they have the pressure plate unbolted from the flywheel, so that shouldn't be holding them back. The wedge collar just holds the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate (which is bolted to the flywheel).

 

thanks yall for the replies, mahjik, i agree, i think its the pilot bearing, but i just dont know what it is going to take to get that tranny to pop loose, (cars at my house now) i tied a rope to the back of the tranny and the other side of a rope to my truck and pulled slightly, and it did not budge the engine pulls a lot, those mounts are gone, any idea for getting this thing loose, i dont want to pry to much on the tranny housing, bc its aluminum and i would die if i broke it,

thanks,

paul

 

Well, first thing, go ahead and place the order for the new pilot bearing and oil seal because I think you are going to need it when/if you get the tranny separated.

I would stick with the prying. If you have/take the UIM off, then just slowly and gently work around the bell housing and see if it begins to separate at all.

 

good advice as usual mahjik, i ended up pulling the motor and tranny, just bc, i have not done it before, and the car needed a lot of work, and that just made it easy.

after prying and pulling the tranny from the motor, the pilot bearing was the cause, it was flat ate up, is there some kind of upgraded pilot bearing? like a solid brass one, kinda of looked like on of the roller pins that are in the bearing had fallen out and caused the whole things to fly apart,

thanks, yall

paul

 

I'm not aware of any upgraded pilot bearings. It sounds like the last install of the bearing wasn't great. A new stock one should be just fine as long as you don't jam it in too far and use a new oil seal.

 

thanks for the advice mahjik, is this the pilot bearing and seal i need, http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-other.htm

so how far do i push the bearing into the eccentric shaft?

where does the seal go exactly?

any grease needed?

thanks

just making sure

 

Yep, that's what you need. You might call Ray at Malloy as I'm sure he can shave off a few bucks than Mazdatrix.

It's been a while since I've done it, so I don't want to spew out anything that might be wrong. Check the manual as it tells you on both of those questions for sure (that much I do remember ).

The seal goes in after the pilot bearing. So, the pilot bearing goes in, then the seal, and then slid the tranny back in.

 

I just bought them from Malloy Mazda and they are in stock. About $8 for both (I had to pay tax since I picked them up on the way through). They ship for free. Make sure you pack with a good grease before putting tranny back in (but not too much).

Tim