Tranni pulled, issue with figuring out what prob is.
#1
Veritas
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Tranni pulled, issue with figuring out what prob is.
Well, I pulled my tranni today finally after eons of not dealing with it. Have a couple pictures to share with everyone and they're a bit large so you can see the bellhousing good enough.
First, i'm not sure which was my problem but obviously the clutch fork needs replaced. But how do you tell if a throw-out bearing is good or bad? I pushed in/out on the clutch fork and it would stay at whatever position i had moved it to, is that because there's no real pressure going onto the fork at all so that's the norm? Should I replace my throw-out bearing as well while I have the tranni out of the car as well?
Lastly, my spedo/tach are having issues. There was a sensor that was broken at the top of the tranni, near the driver side that one side of the cord snapped. Is that just reverse lights? Or could that be part of my speedo problem? Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciate please.
T.c.
First, i'm not sure which was my problem but obviously the clutch fork needs replaced. But how do you tell if a throw-out bearing is good or bad? I pushed in/out on the clutch fork and it would stay at whatever position i had moved it to, is that because there's no real pressure going onto the fork at all so that's the norm? Should I replace my throw-out bearing as well while I have the tranni out of the car as well?
Lastly, my spedo/tach are having issues. There was a sensor that was broken at the top of the tranni, near the driver side that one side of the cord snapped. Is that just reverse lights? Or could that be part of my speedo problem? Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciate please.
T.c.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
What type of clutch were you using?
Also, depending on the mileage on the TOB, you should replace it since you are in there. They all start rattling after a few hundred miles.
I think that is your speedo sensor, but check the manual to be sure.
Also, depending on the mileage on the TOB, you should replace it since you are in there. They all start rattling after a few hundred miles.
I think that is your speedo sensor, but check the manual to be sure.
#6
Veritas
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jesus I really couldn't tell you what type of clutch it is, it's an aftermarket that does like 75% more gripping power from the pp. I bough it from my friend mike to put in my car because the stocker wouldn't be able to take what i'm wanting to end up tossing at the car. Ah well. Im trying to find in the book which sensor is what, man my shop manual pics are shotty :/
T.c.
T.c.
#7
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iTrader: (7)
The speedo sensor is the one on the pass side, comes straight out of the side, forward of the extension housing. The other sensors are the interlock switch, reverse switch, and neutral switch (I think - check the FSM). If you don't have it, get it at www.iluvmyrx7.com or www.fd3s.net.
The sensor wires often break - I strongly recommend carefully cutting off the hardened plastic wiring covers and retaping with a silicone tape, all the way down over the end of the sensor. That should keep them from breaking again. As far as if the piece is important - I dunno exactly but I replaced mine at $30/ea.
The fork spring should push it back out when you press on it - when you replace the fork be sure the spring is operating correctly. A t/o bearing I think should rotate smoothly when you pull on the grooved end, but if the mileage is high enough (100k mi?) I'd suggest just replacing it anyway.
What is all that oil? That doesn't look right to me.
The sensor wires often break - I strongly recommend carefully cutting off the hardened plastic wiring covers and retaping with a silicone tape, all the way down over the end of the sensor. That should keep them from breaking again. As far as if the piece is important - I dunno exactly but I replaced mine at $30/ea.
The fork spring should push it back out when you press on it - when you replace the fork be sure the spring is operating correctly. A t/o bearing I think should rotate smoothly when you pull on the grooved end, but if the mileage is high enough (100k mi?) I'd suggest just replacing it anyway.
What is all that oil? That doesn't look right to me.
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#8
Veritas
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pulled the turbos. Oil came out. A lot of it. Heh.
But thank you for the info, i'll be checking into where to get that sensor at. I thought malloy would charge an arm and a leg for it but i guess not then? Anyways thanks man.
T.c.
But thank you for the info, i'll be checking into where to get that sensor at. I thought malloy would charge an arm and a leg for it but i guess not then? Anyways thanks man.
T.c.
#9
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Yes, classic clutch fork break. Replace T/O and pilot bearing. If they go even a year from now you will be kicking yourself for not replacing them when you had it apart. They aren't that expensive.
I went into mine to fix the engine rear oil seal, and replaced the clutch (because it was -almost- worn out), and both bearings at the same time. I also installed the newer shift select spring. It bolts on the outside of the extention housing. Really crisps up the shifting. I recommend Royal Purple oil to refill the transmission.
I went into mine to fix the engine rear oil seal, and replaced the clutch (because it was -almost- worn out), and both bearings at the same time. I also installed the newer shift select spring. It bolts on the outside of the extention housing. Really crisps up the shifting. I recommend Royal Purple oil to refill the transmission.
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