Trailer wiring Help
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Toronto, Canada
Trailer wiring Help
I'm trying to hook in the trailer wiring harness into the brake lights and turn signals but I can't figure out how to get the lights off. I looked in the FSM but it wasn't much help. I see fat wire behind the center plastic with the vents but I'm not sure if thats for the lights. Any help?
thewird
thewird
If you are trying to remove the brake lights, you need to remove the screws located in the trunk area. They are pointing up and if I remember they are under a plastic pop out panel near the rubber trunk seal. Now that you have removed the screws the lights will slide to the outside away from the center light.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,603
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From: Toronto, Canada
I removed the plastic panel over the lights but there are no screws underneath. There were 2 screws pointing into the lights but they didn't seem to be related to removing the whole unit out.
thewird
thewird
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Toronto, Canada
Yah I did but I don't really remember anything lol, it was a while ago. I think I just ended up checking all the wires with a voltmeter but not sure.
thewird
thewird
I just did the wiring for my 1993 R1. Be sure to check that you have the right wire with a voltmeter on the tail-light plug, as on my car the color coding did not match the FSM. Turn lights on, see which wire is energized. Turn brakes on, etc. Turn turn signals on, etc.
I clipped into the wires inside the passenger compartment, then ran the trailer wires through the access for the gas tank. I put some thin silicone sealing tape around the tank access plate to be sure it was sealed where the extra (flat) wire ribbon went under. Be sure to bend up the lip on the access plate so it doesn't dig into the trailer wiring.
I also got all five of the rearmost bolts (1 bolt and 2 square u-bolts) installed for the hitch without cutting any access hole into the aluminum framing piece, although this was complex. It is possible, with some steel fish tape and judicious use of electrical tape to the bolt, to thread the large flat washer and rearmost bolt between the aluminum frame and the steel body, behind the yellow light/reflector under the brake lights. You have to undo the bolts holding the aluminum framing piece there (from the inside), and then you can bend enough of a gap to get the bolt head in. Once in, pull it through the hole with the fish tape/electrical tape. Be sure to drill the hole to allow for the width of the electrical tape around the bolt. And attach the tape to the bolt longitudinally from both sides, so it pulls evenly (as opposed to just wrapping electrical tape around the bolt, which will make it pull only from one side).
I clipped into the wires inside the passenger compartment, then ran the trailer wires through the access for the gas tank. I put some thin silicone sealing tape around the tank access plate to be sure it was sealed where the extra (flat) wire ribbon went under. Be sure to bend up the lip on the access plate so it doesn't dig into the trailer wiring.
I also got all five of the rearmost bolts (1 bolt and 2 square u-bolts) installed for the hitch without cutting any access hole into the aluminum framing piece, although this was complex. It is possible, with some steel fish tape and judicious use of electrical tape to the bolt, to thread the large flat washer and rearmost bolt between the aluminum frame and the steel body, behind the yellow light/reflector under the brake lights. You have to undo the bolts holding the aluminum framing piece there (from the inside), and then you can bend enough of a gap to get the bolt head in. Once in, pull it through the hole with the fish tape/electrical tape. Be sure to drill the hole to allow for the width of the electrical tape around the bolt. And attach the tape to the bolt longitudinally from both sides, so it pulls evenly (as opposed to just wrapping electrical tape around the bolt, which will make it pull only from one side).
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