I am in the process of slowly getting my rebuilt engine sorted and am throwing on a fair few goodies whilst doing this. Read ports, fuel, intercooler, bnr3's , water injection etc.

My question is for those few people running higher HP twins, And if anyone has some extreme HP sequential setups I would really love to hear from you.

How do you find traction? what sized rubber are you using? what speeds do you actually regain traction?

What breakages have you had from excess power?

 

just get a good set of tires and some wider rims in the back. if you're sitting there spinning, you might want to let off the gas a tad until it regains traction.

It's not necessarily what speeds you regain traction, it's more so when the tires get traction again. accelerating more will only make it worse. That'd be indication to upgrade tires, rims, suspension

the "breakage" is usually: tail happy, getting sideways, wheel hopping

goodfellasfd3s has a 421whp setup, might want to check his setup out.

 

I was non-seq and as a result never had any traction issues on the road when it was dry. In wet with 360rwhp it would let go at 100mph in 3rd with ~440rwhp it was from 120-140mph in 4th where the rear tyres were spinning. That was running 255 section Toyo R888 road legal slicks.
FWIW I did run the car on a set of standard wheels on normal road tyres when it was at just over 400rwhp and it was 60mph in 3rd when the rear would let go in the dry.

Breakage wise diffs and gearbox around the 400rwhp mark. Depends on the use of the car - mine spent a lot of time on narrow bumpy roads where the rear would come off the ground and I think it was the shock of the landings that did the damage, as well as the 1/4 mile use.

 

Rob .

i compared my yoko ao48's 225 50 16 to my 255 40 17 road wheels and found them to very very close.

Scott

 

I guess it was the difference between R888s and T1-Rs then Scott. I borrowed a set of 16" for going up to my parents for Christmas last year as I knew the R888s were terrible in snow, came as a nasty surprise how little traction regular tyres had - pulled out to overtake another car on a snow free section and things got a bit interesting

 

Ohhh,,

I run ao48s. i love them. They drive in the wet as well.

I am planning on running ao48's all round next year and running in the time attack.. so we will see how good they are.

Scott

 

when temps get below 60 degrees (maybe even 65 or lower) F i cant keep traction once the second turbo comes on in second gear. it really sucks too cause the car is out once it gets cooler. i run 245 toyo t1-s and make 360 rwhp. anyone else have these issues? can something be tuned on the suspension. i have koni yellows with eibach springs.

 

Thanks guys, Please keep the info coming.

I am aiming for a setup with at least the HP of goodfellas / Robertios. (Hell I am starting to put enough parts together so it should achieve it whilst still sequential...but we will see)

Sounds like the diff is going to need some attention too. I might replace it with a KAZ or similar if that is all thats needed?

Robertio,
Yours was wheel spinning after 120-140mph in 4th gear on 440rwhp. I take it you were running non-sequential? If you held your foot when would it regain traction at those speeds? (PS Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun!! )

 

285/30/18 on a 10 in. wide rim does wonders for traction. Keeps ypu from being sideways in 2nd gear when the weather is cold.

Jack

 

It was non-seq and that was where the BNRs were at 1.4bar in 4th gear. It was be fighting traction until I changed into 5th at just over 8k rpm then it was fine. Would have been more entertaining if I hadn't been trying to map the car at the time - little difficult to do when the revs were jumping around
In the dry it was fine, even through 2nd gear it would grip under WOT, handy for picking on bikes

I ended up putting a Kaaz in after going through 2 stock diffs in less than 6 months of road driving. After the gearbox went it was just rebuilt and lasted the 6 months until I sold the car. You will need some sort of bracing at this power level - I had solid engine & diff mounts and a KG diff brace which helped no end. Due to blowing engines on a regular basis it never spent long enough on a drag strip to break anything else.

Best of luck in getting more rwhp, I couldn't get any more out of my car running the same sort of setup.

 

I am focusing on cooling a bit more heavily than you or goodfellas have..
liquid lpg provides a very handy -40 degree celscius fuel charge, and a rather large water to air intercooler.
Coupled with water injection, CDI, and anything else Rice Racing can dream up. Should hopefully come close to yours!
Engine is currently in the build process...some rather heavy porting is being done as well. Further, on the Emails that Bryan has managed to answer (I would hate his email box I am sure!!) he has hinted that there are further enhancements available to us idiots chasing outright power...

Hopefully by February I will have mine on a dyno somewhere..(I aint in a rush..which means I am trying to do it right first time!)

However...back to the thread.
285's could handle the power in 2nd gear in the dry? What rubber was this?
How ridiculous is this level of power on corner exits? Is it semi controllable?
(It has been a long long time since I have had a car capable of breaking traction at 120mph+!!)
Also, how was the KAZ to drive with?

 

I think the diff will do fine unless you drag race the car alot. If you launch the car thats when things get nasty. goodfellas will prob recommend a tII dif, casue i think thats what he is runing. There hasnt been to many people who hit 400rwhp sequentialy with the bnr stage 3s, if you do make sure you post it up that would be interesting to see. Casue iam thinking about the setup myself, I really wanna keep the sequential fun. Good luck.

 

i run 285 35 18s pirelli and at 420 whp on my single i can roast them in 2nd gear and if its cold out you can hang it up

 

Be interesting to see how you get on then, my air temps were around 20degrees running the Rotary Extreme Monster VMIC plus Aquamist WI, with water temps in the 50s thanks to the Davies Craig EWP. When I was running nitrous on the car I didn't find it made much difference to temps. Those I know running charge coolers had a much higher air temp than I did on the vmount, except for during drag racing where heat soak was still a problem for me. Porting wise I was making peak power around 7.8k rpm, not sure how much further up the rev range you can realistically move that, but Rice Racing will no doubt use his wealth of knowledge
Just got an e-mail from they guy who bought my car - fresh engine is in (seems I warped 5 of the 6 apex seals :o ), and it has been converted back to sequential. Once he has run it in the car will be on a dyno to give you some numbers to chase

I spent quite a lot of time pestering Bryan a few years back when I got my BNRs, super helpful and friendly individual

It was 255 rubber on 17" for me Link to the Toyo website for this rubber Worth mentioning I didn't hit full boost until 5.5k rpm with a very progressive build up (positive boost at 2k and just gradually building from there), completely different to the all or nothing hit you will have. Don't have any clips of it in full health (that you can hear the traction), but on the warped seals it was like this. On full boost it just kept the chirping going through all of 2nd gear.

Kaaz was great when you were on maximum attack, absolutely silent and just put the power down. When pottering around slowly it was terrible IMHO, the car would feel like it was leaping sideways around corners and clunk and bang when turning at low speeds - parking was a whole new adventure. It was silent when cold, but after it had warmed up it lived up to it's nickname of Clunky.

Never had any problems on corner exists, I'm sure if I just stuck my right foot on the floor things would have got interesting, but as long as you are progressive with the throttle it should not be a problem. After the first day at 1.4bar I was wanting more, but there was just no more to come.

 

I am now running 17 X 8 front and 17 X 9.5 back. Bridgestone so3's. My traction and control is far superior to the stock set-up. At anytime i begin to break loose. I take the foot off the gas and the car snaps back into traction. The stock set up used to get away from me all the time. G