Trackday Suspension
04-10-21, 12:53 AM
#1
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Trackday Suspension
I’d appreciate some recommendations on a trackday suspension setup. Putting my car back together after some years in the garage.
I’m looking to replace everything beyond the coilovers (Ohlins) which I have, and bushings. Car is running 450hp and on 100tw DOT 285/30/18 square.
its been a while and I was hoping for some help with a list of the new parts and manufacturers out there.
I’m looking to replace everything beyond the coilovers (Ohlins) which I have, and bushings. Car is running 450hp and on 100tw DOT 285/30/18 square.
its been a while and I was hoping for some help with a list of the new parts and manufacturers out there.
Last edited by remydrm; 04-10-21 at 12:29 PM.
04-10-21, 10:23 AM
#2
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the FD has a race car suspension, make sure everything is in good shape, torque everything to the upper limit of the spec in the manual, and align it with some negative camber in the front and you're good
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gracer7-rx7 (04-12-21)
04-10-21, 01:37 PM
#4
j9fd3s telling it like it is.
A small thing you can do to save your alignment specs and some sanity, though, would be to pick up a set of these - https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-ce...al-gb-1148546/
A small thing you can do to save your alignment specs and some sanity, though, would be to pick up a set of these - https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-ce...al-gb-1148546/
04-10-21, 05:20 PM
#5
ROTARY POWER
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Definitely going to add the washers to the car. Thanks.
Any experience with the Battle Version parts? With the expense?
What about adjustable sway bar end links or billet mounts?
Any experience with the Battle Version parts? With the expense?
What about adjustable sway bar end links or billet mounts?
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gracer7-rx7 (04-12-21)
04-11-21, 08:35 AM
#6
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ninesixtwo (04-13-21)
04-11-21, 11:09 AM
#7
^^
I would stick with the simple set-up of Ohlins and the rest of the suspension stock for now.
The stock bushings will wear out with the 285 DOT-R tires pretty quickly. When that happens you can go Mazdacomp or Poly up front and eliminate some of the dynamic toe from the stock sliding bushings- car will feel more true and less squirmy under braking.
Dont use Poly in the rear suspension! (Exceptions noted below.)
The stock rear pivots are almost all rubber isolated spherical bearings and straight metal spherical bearings because the rear is all multi-axis suspension movement and Mazda went full racecar on it.
If you put poly in the rear toe links or the rear lower arm it will bind the rear suspension.
You CAN put poly in the rear UPPER arm without binding to eliminate the stock sliding bushing rear dynamic toe.
This will help the car feel more true on/off throttle transitions and precise on rear position exiting turns.
Predictability-
getting rid of the stock Torsen for an OS Giken Superlock differential will make the car very predictable when the chassis is doing things Mazda did not intend.
This is all the **** that happens on track when only 1 rear tire is on the ground or otherwise properly loaded with vehicle weight...
Bumping curbing, dirt drops, 2 wheeling on transitions and banked turns as well as slip angle (drifts intentional or otherwise).
The Torsen unpredictability is more of an issue with shorter travel shocks/high spring rates/wide sticky tires. Things Mazda did NOT tune the chassis for.
Safety-
If you go with big brakes up front consider putting in reinforced front spindles as well (Like RE Amemiya pieces). Front axle flex and larger diameter brake rotors means you get pretty bad brake pad knock-back.
You go to brake and pedal goes to floor pumping the pistons back out to the rotor surface. Have to pump brakes before using them.
Been there twice. First time was hillclimb with no run-off, bumped inside curbing before needing brakes a couple turns later.
2nd time was coming out of banked turn on track and thankful for infield run-off area.
I would stick with the simple set-up of Ohlins and the rest of the suspension stock for now.
The stock bushings will wear out with the 285 DOT-R tires pretty quickly. When that happens you can go Mazdacomp or Poly up front and eliminate some of the dynamic toe from the stock sliding bushings- car will feel more true and less squirmy under braking.
Dont use Poly in the rear suspension! (Exceptions noted below.)
The stock rear pivots are almost all rubber isolated spherical bearings and straight metal spherical bearings because the rear is all multi-axis suspension movement and Mazda went full racecar on it.
If you put poly in the rear toe links or the rear lower arm it will bind the rear suspension.
You CAN put poly in the rear UPPER arm without binding to eliminate the stock sliding bushing rear dynamic toe.
This will help the car feel more true on/off throttle transitions and precise on rear position exiting turns.
Predictability-
getting rid of the stock Torsen for an OS Giken Superlock differential will make the car very predictable when the chassis is doing things Mazda did not intend.
This is all the **** that happens on track when only 1 rear tire is on the ground or otherwise properly loaded with vehicle weight...
Bumping curbing, dirt drops, 2 wheeling on transitions and banked turns as well as slip angle (drifts intentional or otherwise).
The Torsen unpredictability is more of an issue with shorter travel shocks/high spring rates/wide sticky tires. Things Mazda did NOT tune the chassis for.
Safety-
If you go with big brakes up front consider putting in reinforced front spindles as well (Like RE Amemiya pieces). Front axle flex and larger diameter brake rotors means you get pretty bad brake pad knock-back.
You go to brake and pedal goes to floor pumping the pistons back out to the rotor surface. Have to pump brakes before using them.
Been there twice. First time was hillclimb with no run-off, bumped inside curbing before needing brakes a couple turns later.
2nd time was coming out of banked turn on track and thankful for infield run-off area.
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ninesixtwo (04-13-21)
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