TT_Rex_7

This one right here!

-Alex

c00lduke

Why are you needing to take those out? I did with all without taking them out and didnt read any mention of him doing that either.

TT_Rex_7

I was wanting to remove them, and extend them outside of the car. I just think it'd be alot easier. I don't think you can remove them though. I guess i'll just have to cut it, extend the wires, and solder the wires back to the connections inside the car.

-Alex

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Alex, you're not making any sense haha....cut the fuse box out with some slack....extend the wires from the fuse box outside the car...put everything in the bin. Put the bin in the car, then run the wires and connect them in the engine bay. I guess thats what you mean...if you're still having problems IM me dmcvic7702

TT_Rex_7

I finally have something completed! Just finished relocating the harness that leads to the alt., ps, starter, ect. ect.

I started by taking off all the original electrical tape. Then I cut the wires that lead to the starter, oil pan, and something else. (don't remember ) I took quite a bit of wire out of each one due to them being WAY to long. After that I soldered them back together, and used heat shrink. Then I used that friction tape ya'll showed me, and wrapped ALL the wires with it. To insure I wouldn't have any problems, I put high temp loom over all the wires, and wrapped that with high temp electrical tape! I don't think i'll be having any problems with this harness!!

-Alex

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Alex, Harness looks great. Thats actually the final thing I have to do. So now I have a few questions for you. Is the alternator wires too long or not long enough? I am about to re-wrap that harness as well, but I was gonna wait till the engine went back in. BTW I re-used the grommet to run the cables through the firewall. You have to make the hole bigger that holds it in place though

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

double

TT_Rex_7

There was only 3 wires I had to shorten. One leads to the starter (12 awg), one leads to the oil pan (blue wire), and the other leads to something by the spark plugs. It looks like a small starter. I'm really not sure what it is. lol I'm not sure what you used to wrap the wires, but DO NOT use the friction tape. Although it's a mess with all the sticky **** from electrical tape, it's a PITA to get the friction tape off. Once it's on there, it's just about permanent. Trust me, I learned the hard way!

I'm just about finished installing it in the car, so i'll take some pictures of it tonight. This way, you'll know if you have to change anything else. Just in case we ran our harness diffrent ways.

-Alex

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Looking good.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

bump can you repost pics on page one?

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

Please stop bumping threads that are 5 years old! This is the second thread that you've done this to. Asking for more pictures/details/etc. 5 years after the thread was started.

You'll have to PM them if you want a response -- provided they're even still on the site.


This is ridiculous.

Troux

iTrader: (6)

Did this mod. Not fun.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Nice!!!

brad89au

may as well make this a "show us your totally pointless fuse box relocation" thread
Mine:

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

Its called a wire tuck =P

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Agree it's ridiculous, but it's pretty easy to tell if someone still frequents the forum....In this case I do. I'll see if I can dig up the pics.

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

LOL . I know you do! It was one of those nights

Sorry to muibubbles. I can play nice-nice

http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

Digging up old threads is a sign of someone using the search function.

Would you rather them open a new thread requesting pictures, or would you just complain about that too?

JFC!

You can't make anybody happy here (unless your bringing something new) so why don't we just STFU and help people learn, instead of turning them down & looking like an A-HOLE in the same sentence.

The question I have is:

why go through all the trouble, if your just moving stuff around?

Why wouldn't you totally relocate all fuse blocks and moveable junctions to the bins (or somewhere outsid the engine bay)?

I have yet to see a complete tuck/ junction relocation.

Why has this not been done?

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

Just wait until I post photos

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

I'd actually prefer them to PM the original author. Did you not read my post?

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Bump!

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Tell ya what, Why don't you keep your snot nose remarks out of my thread kiddo.

There is no room to move the relay box and the fuse boxes into the bin. Jason (HWND) has a much better relocation in the works then I have done anyway.

Here are all the pictures I could find. I can take new pictures of the bin in the car if needed.

Initial mockup







Running the new wires through the extra hole on the firewall.
*Note* I modified the stock hole plug after this picture was taken to keep water/dirt out of the interior.





Tools needed for the job



Battery box used to hold battery in place



Custom ghetto aluminum backing plate to keep battery secure. If I had to do this again I probably would have used longer bolts. If you use longer bolts you can just loosen them instead of completely removing them (which is a pain)



I wouldn't recommend relocating the diagnostics box, as you can see here it's still in the engine bay.

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

I'll answer that in two parts..

a)
Have you ever seen the front/main harness with tape & flex-loom removed? It's a good sized trunk of cabling. The cost of replacing this harness with a new one is about $2k

b)
This isn't meant to be a stab at people who have done 'relocation' mods but I haven't seen a single guy increase the cable sizes of a few key batt+ supplies. What do I mean? ...well the harness (front/main) was designed by some pretty bright fellas but what we ended up with is a cheaper version of that idea. The power-wires are just big enough (in terms of gage) to pass, the quality is so/so.

What should happen when we redesign the loom layout is to increase (or decrease) the gage-size where needed. For example, when I planned to relocate the fan-relays I knew that they were FURTHER away from the intended end-point and also FURTHER away from the power source. To maintain the an ideal heat-range within the wire(s) - the sizes had to be increased.
in other words, semi-major redesign was needed.

Point I'm really trying to make is this:
...yeah sure - snipe,cut,tape your way into a better looking engine bay by removing those fuse boxes and relays to the rear bins and i'm sure you can simply extend the cables needed to do so but it simply wouldn't be correct. So much power is drawn through the ignition-key-switch (fans, fuel pump, headlights, etc) that it gets pretty damn hot! To do something like this proper - you would need to spend more time on it than it might be worth.

..unless you ditched all the fuses and relays! WTF am I talking about? MOSFETS / solid state relays! Power Distribution Management (PDM) to the rescue.

So if you've fully committed to the idea of relocating those fuse boxes.. just get rid of them all together - you have no idea how much easier the installation and management from there on out
would be. PDM's are generally configurable to a wide degree. Mine has wireless capabilities which allows me to control (via key-fob) any function of the PDM units capabilities. Wiring these things up is a little easier (actually a **** load easier) than rewiring the car properly while keeping the relays and junk.

Dont think about rushing out to buy a PDM any time soon - a starter package from Motec will run you about $3k and you probably couldn't wire the car up with all the stock options working. Starter kits typically are 14 inputs (high beam, low beam, flashers, turn signals, etc) so you are going to be needing two of the entry level motec pdm (Motec PDM16 if you want something to search for).


I've started what I believe to be a proper job. My main goal (initially) was to remove the front/main harness completely from the car and de-pin the connectors that I wouldn't be using (stock MAP sensor, ignition amp, etc). De-pinning a connector involves (with the tape removed of course) removing the wire & plug down to the connector on the other end. For example, to remove the MAP sensor plug - there is a common ground & common 5v+ trunk that the MAP sensor "Tee's" from as well as the 5v+ signal running to the ECU side of the car. De-pinning removes every trace of the wires associated with the connector-plug itself. There were a lot of those types of connectors to remove for my situation.

Once I had all the tape, loom & useless-connectors off the harness - I now wanted to "re-route" the harness so that I wouldn't have the big 'ol nasty trunk running along the fender well. In fact, think about the actual devices up there in the front of the car (Fans, horn, lights, signal, fog, etc).
well that main trunk that runs along the front of the car (under the hood latch area) only needed to be half that size (in diameter) at most. If I ran all the cabling under the dash (instead of around the front of the car) I could totally clean up my engine bay wiring..

well, now you know my goal and some minor insight as to why i picked a PDM over doing the harness proper justice (if keeping the realys,etc).. I wont have to worry about over heating wires (which DOES cause fires) and a whole host of benefits of the PDM system itself.

...I've had too much coffee & I'm going to stop typing right there. :-)

I've had just a few ::laughs:: conversations with Dan on wiring and such

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

This is what we need. (information sharing)

Jason, did you bounce on the ISIS system, because of it not having enough inputs?

The weight savings alone is a HUGE advantage.

Heat from extra strain & length of wire was a risk I wasn't taking into account either. (thanks again)

I've used MOSFET's in the past (airsoft application) but it never crossed my mind for automotive application.:icon_tu p:

Thanks!

P.S. Further measures degree, farther measures distance.

P.S.S. I wasn't trying to be smug, it bothers me when I see people talk down to someone for asking for help on a PUBLIC forum. As for PM'ing someone to ask about the pictures... How about the YOU PM the thread bumper, asking them to PM the OP. (instead of thrashing them on a public forum, contrary to your complaint)

Troux

iTrader: (6)

That's what mine is, for the most part. I relocated the two fuse boxes to the passenger bin, and I did a V8 swap and moved to sleek lights, plus I have an R2, and I removed the horns, so the only relays I needed are headslight, TNS, and 3 for the cooling fans (I went from lo-med-hi to just med-hi speeds). The two light relays are tucked under the DS headlight, and the 3 fan relays under the PS headlight. I also got rid of the entire SRS system, which eliminated a lot of wires, 5 sensors, and the control box. Since I eliminated SO many wires, I rebuilt the front wiring harness in a MUCH smaller loom, and am running it in front of the bumper support. Also, not pictured, but I was able to move the wheel speed sensor wires to under the fender liner, instead of through the engine bay. I've also eliminated AC, and am running the engine wire harness through the firewall where the AC hoses were, so you see a little less of the harness compared to the factory harness hole. If I could only bring myself to eliminate ABS and the wipers, I would have a pretty wireless engine bay.

Airbag **** out:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/ABS%20Stuff.jpg

Fan relays over oil cooler (note that the top harness is the SRS, which is now removed):
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0169.jpg

Again, the top harness and crash sensor are now gone, but here's the new, smaller harness tcked neatly away behind the front bumper:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0171.jpg


Here are where the two light relays are hidden. I've since cleaned up the wires here, don't worry:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0172.jpg

Repost of the battery box:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Battery%20Bin.jpg