Torquing the big ass flywheel nut?
#1
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Torquing the big *** flywheel nut?
Okay, I've got a Snap-on torque wrench but it only goes up to 75ft#. So, I went down to my friendly Auto Zone for their tool rental. I rented one of their OEM branded torque wrench and it goes up to 250ft#. This is the highest rated torque wrench that i could find.
My question is, is this enough to torque down the flywheel nut? I know the manual said to torque it to 280-300ft#. In Bruce. T's video, he said to torque down to 150ft#, then turn the nut another 60 degrees. Have anyone else done it this way,r did you just torque it down to 250ft#?
Thanks, Jay
My question is, is this enough to torque down the flywheel nut? I know the manual said to torque it to 280-300ft#. In Bruce. T's video, he said to torque down to 150ft#, then turn the nut another 60 degrees. Have anyone else done it this way,r did you just torque it down to 250ft#?
Thanks, Jay
#2
Torqueless Wonder
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i've done it Bruce's way before. and it works. but still a pain in the *** with a 1ft extension on a breaker bar when under the car.
i've also torque it to exactly 300ft-lbs and they both had about the same resistance (well gauging by my weak small frame, being sore doing it every time) i only weigh 160lbs give or take
i've also torque it to exactly 300ft-lbs and they both had about the same resistance (well gauging by my weak small frame, being sore doing it every time) i only weigh 160lbs give or take
#3
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I just hit it with an Impact gun set at about 300lbs forward. I later found out the wrench only goes to 290lb has been fine for about 3,000 miles.
Last edited by sunburn; 11-30-08 at 06:47 AM.
#4
Constant threat
I did it Bruce's way. I actually have/had a torque wrench rated to 600 ft./lbs. that I had to buy to torque the harmonic balancer nut on a diesel Audi I had. That nut had to be torqued to 540 ft./lbs. I remember having a 6' cheater on the wrench's 3' handle, laying on my back and pushing on the cheater with my feet, actually lifting the car up before I heard the 'ker-chunk' of the wrench.
Of course, when I went to find it...I couldn't. A damned $300 wrench I used ONCE...lost....or stolen.
Most people go with Bruce's way, it seems.
Of course, when I went to find it...I couldn't. A damned $300 wrench I used ONCE...lost....or stolen.
Most people go with Bruce's way, it seems.
#6
Urban Combat Vet
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Or you can get one of these that spins them off pretty well too. It's adjustable and IIRC about 3/4 from the lightest setting at about 100 psi gets it pretty close to what you need.
----> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2623
----> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2623
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#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
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The principle of the high torque number on the flywheel nut is to press the flywheel onto the taper on the eccentric shaft. In other words, you just have to tighten the crap out of it.
I just hit it with the impact gun until I can't see the nut move any further. It's usually a good 20-30 seconds of running the gun. Done this COUNTLESS times, haven't had a problem yet.
BTW, you do want to put Loctite on the threads and RTV sealant on the rear face of the nut as per the shop manual.
Dale
I just hit it with the impact gun until I can't see the nut move any further. It's usually a good 20-30 seconds of running the gun. Done this COUNTLESS times, haven't had a problem yet.
BTW, you do want to put Loctite on the threads and RTV sealant on the rear face of the nut as per the shop manual.
Dale
#10
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Wow, thanks for all the awesome responses and advice. I have a high torque/rated impart gun but my compressor is only a 20 gallon unit, not enough output to drive that nut.
I was imagining that if I didn't torque that big *** nut to 300ft#. Somehow it would work itself loose and break though the bell housing, then through the transmission tunnel, then shear off both my feet. I guess I've been watching too much Myth Busters!
I'd purchase a used ACT street light flywheel and it came with the counter weight and some bolts for the counter weight. When I bolted down the counter weight, the bolt almost touches the rear main seal/rear main seal housing.......
Can I still use these bolts and just get some lock washer or are they meant to be use without washers? Also, do you have to replace the pressure plate nuts or can my old ones be reused. My entire car only had 76K miles.
Thank you, Jay
I was imagining that if I didn't torque that big *** nut to 300ft#. Somehow it would work itself loose and break though the bell housing, then through the transmission tunnel, then shear off both my feet. I guess I've been watching too much Myth Busters!
I'd purchase a used ACT street light flywheel and it came with the counter weight and some bolts for the counter weight. When I bolted down the counter weight, the bolt almost touches the rear main seal/rear main seal housing.......
Can I still use these bolts and just get some lock washer or are they meant to be use without washers? Also, do you have to replace the pressure plate nuts or can my old ones be reused. My entire car only had 76K miles.
Thank you, Jay
#11
Urban Combat Vet
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...I'd purchase a used ACT street light flywheel and it came with the counter weight and some bolts for the counter weight. When I bolted down the counter weight, the bolt almost touches the rear main seal/rear main seal housing.......
Can I still use these bolts and just get some lock washer or are they meant to be use without washers? Also, do you have to replace the pressure plate nuts or can my old ones be reused. My entire car only had 76K miles.
Thank you, Jay
Can I still use these bolts and just get some lock washer or are they meant to be use without washers? Also, do you have to replace the pressure plate nuts or can my old ones be reused. My entire car only had 76K miles.
Thank you, Jay
#14
Brappable.
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Yeah I just used my legs and tightened the hell out of it, using my jacks as a way to hold myself so I wouldn't slide out from under the car pushing so hard. Before I took it off I noticed there were markings that matched up on the flywheel nut and E-shaft so I just tightened it as hard as i could and almost got those marks to match up perfectly again. There was no way I could get it to budge anymore so I was satisfied.
#15
fadedvr=pink
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The principle of the high torque number on the flywheel nut is to press the flywheel onto the taper on the eccentric shaft. In other words, you just have to tighten the crap out of it.
I just hit it with the impact gun until I can't see the nut move any further. It's usually a good 20-30 seconds of running the gun. Done this COUNTLESS times, haven't had a problem yet.
BTW, you do want to put Loctite on the threads and RTV sealant on the rear face of the nut as per the shop manual.
Dale
I just hit it with the impact gun until I can't see the nut move any further. It's usually a good 20-30 seconds of running the gun. Done this COUNTLESS times, haven't had a problem yet.
BTW, you do want to put Loctite on the threads and RTV sealant on the rear face of the nut as per the shop manual.
Dale
Dale, what kind of gun do you use, whats the max torque rating? I would be worried about over torquing, I have a 580 lb one so I don't know when it would be ok to stop.
#18
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This should prevent my legs from accidental shearing via flywheel....
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