Torque Control Arm, It Works!
#1
Eye In The Sky
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: In A Disfunctional World
Posts: 7,894
Likes: 0
Received 114 Likes
on
66 Posts
Torque Control Arm, It Works!
My friend Kyle Krutilek makes this and it works very well. It stops the side to side motion of the trans when shifting. Really helps when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. If interested, contact me directly.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
I have a similar set up but mine is bolted to the side of the engine bay. What do you have in between the bar and the side of the bay?
I agree, it makes a huge difference in how the car feels when shifting. No engine movement at all. The drivetrain feels very very tight. My only concern is what will happen to the lower intake manifold to where the engine hoist mount is attached.
Nice thing is that it only costs 1/10 of what they sell for, if you DIY.
Mike
I agree, it makes a huge difference in how the car feels when shifting. No engine movement at all. The drivetrain feels very very tight. My only concern is what will happen to the lower intake manifold to where the engine hoist mount is attached.
Nice thing is that it only costs 1/10 of what they sell for, if you DIY.
Mike
#5
Eye In The Sky
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: In A Disfunctional World
Posts: 7,894
Likes: 0
Received 114 Likes
on
66 Posts
The RED thing is a trans bushing from Energy Suspension. It helps absorbe any shock/vibration.
The intake manifold also has another support by the throttle body. That same point is used to lift the engine for R&R. True it puts more strain on the lower instake attachement but it is spread out amongst 5 fasteners. It might not be best for drag racing, but for street use should be OK.
It is your choice. Just like heavier springs/shocks put more load on the suspension attachment points and ball-joints due to shock. Nobody seems to ever mention that!
The intake manifold also has another support by the throttle body. That same point is used to lift the engine for R&R. True it puts more strain on the lower instake attachement but it is spread out amongst 5 fasteners. It might not be best for drag racing, but for street use should be OK.
It is your choice. Just like heavier springs/shocks put more load on the suspension attachment points and ball-joints due to shock. Nobody seems to ever mention that!
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 12-27-01 at 02:26 PM.
#6
It's never fast enough...
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Solid motor mounts do the same thing, but this IS pretty to look at :p
I've seen similiar setups but where it was attached to the front of the engine. Where exactly is the end with the bushing bolted to?
I've seen similiar setups but where it was attached to the front of the engine. Where exactly is the end with the bushing bolted to?
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
I agree solid engine mounts do the same thing, but you can make a torque reaction strut for less than $50 versus several hundred dollars for the engine mounts. Although as previously stated, I am not sure what the long term ramifications of the brace will be on the short block and intake manifolds. On the street it probably is on inconsequence,but at the track it might prove to be detrimental. Don't the FCs use a similar brace?
It attaches to the passenger side engine bay wall. The bracket I am using has holes that line up exactly with the predrilled (stock) holes. It bolts up with I believe #8 metric bolts.
I thought of using a brace that went from the strut tower bar to the front engine hoist mount, but that probably is not a good idea.
the_saint
It attaches to the passenger side engine bay wall. The bracket I am using has holes that line up exactly with the predrilled (stock) holes. It bolts up with I believe #8 metric bolts.
I thought of using a brace that went from the strut tower bar to the front engine hoist mount, but that probably is not a good idea.
the_saint
Last edited by the_saint; 12-27-01 at 03:48 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Pimpin Rotors...and Hoes
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've seen this on one of those Japanese Rx-7 websites ! So, what is the price on this? I am interested. May be able to get a group purchase together as well.
Ted Alvendia
President
"Sevens on the Shore" Rx-7 Club of New Orleans, LA
http://ourworld.cs.com/talvendi
Ted Alvendia
President
"Sevens on the Shore" Rx-7 Club of New Orleans, LA
http://ourworld.cs.com/talvendi
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you want something that helps with the transmission movement. Here's an better alternative. It replaces the crossbar under where the PPF and the transmission connects. The center attaches to the ppf/trans and the other two points across the transmission tunnel. This would keep the trans from moving too much and maybe? it would help with the PPF cracking. (the point where the trans mounts to the ppf is a common breaking point)
David
David
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
which? the trans mount or the HPI ? The trans mount is made by some guy in Japan, abot $200 shipped from Japan. The HPI is about the same price. If you want them I can get them for you from Japan.
David
David
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
I like the idea of the tranny brace. I wonder how much more of a difference it makes if you already have a torque reaction strut in the engine bay. Probably doesnt hurt to have.
Nice.
the_saint
Nice.
the_saint
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Transmission brace is made by a lot of companies in Japan. You can make your own if you have a welder. In my opinion it is a lot better at keeping the trans from moving. But the engine brace works better at saving your engine mount.
David
David
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Land Of No Pistons
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The use the Torque control arm on most Japanese FD. The reason is that the motor will hit the steering(RHD cars) under hard acceleratoin. Most Japanese tuners have a version of their own ususally they look like a small shock like on our rear hatch. If you buy a Japanese one you will have to modify the bracket where it bolts to the frame....the US ABS gets in the way.
KnightSports, Amemiya, Anniversary, FEED and, R Magic I believe all have their version of it. The XS engineering FD has a Anniversary one on it. They usually run about 150-200 depending where you get it from.
KnightSports, Amemiya, Anniversary, FEED and, R Magic I believe all have their version of it. The XS engineering FD has a Anniversary one on it. They usually run about 150-200 depending where you get it from.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heheh anniversary was a far walk, I should've mailed ordered it
David
PS I think he just used a few washers to clear the one of the bolt holding the brake line on the abs unit.
David
PS I think he just used a few washers to clear the one of the bolt holding the brake line on the abs unit.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Covina, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ooops major grammer problem on my previous post.
nope I have not used either one. I got the anniversary for the xs car, and they made their own tyranny mount. I will be installing the trans mount when I get back to the states. So pics will be up later.
um I call the shops to order the parts or take their marveleous train system and shop around.
David
nope I have not used either one. I got the anniversary for the xs car, and they made their own tyranny mount. I will be installing the trans mount when I get back to the states. So pics will be up later.
um I call the shops to order the parts or take their marveleous train system and shop around.
David
#22
Polishing Fiend
iTrader: (139)
I made one of these about 2 years ago.
See details:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/powrbar.htm
Sorry for the small images and it is obvious now that the price of the Japanese product has dropped but at the time I made mine it was listed for $380.
Regards,
Crispy
See details:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/powrbar.htm
Sorry for the small images and it is obvious now that the price of the Japanese product has dropped but at the time I made mine it was listed for $380.
Regards,
Crispy
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
I made mine thanx to CrispyRX7, he gave me all the dimensions and helped out greatly. Thanks CrispyRX7, it made a huge difference, but transmits more vibration and noise.
A torque strut bar will really tighten up the drive train. It seems odd but you get used to the sensation of no drivetrain windup.
the_saint
A torque strut bar will really tighten up the drive train. It seems odd but you get used to the sensation of no drivetrain windup.
the_saint
#25
Full Member
I have both on my car. The engine brace serves about the same service as solid engine mounts. The tranny brace helps in preventing the 2nd to 3rd gear miss shifts while drag racing. If you don't like to feel the vibration of the engine or drivetrain don't do these mods. The engine brace wasn't to bad as far as noise goes, but if you do the tranny brace, I hope you like hearing a constant gear whine. Another thing that I have done, is to make solid diff mounts(welded big *** washers over the bushings. This mod helps to prevent wheel hop, but also adds to the noise factor substantially.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GrossPolluter
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
12
08-15-15 10:32 PM