Tomorrow is the big day ;o)
It's just a non-sponsored voluntary event that takes place every Friday at Dulles Town Center. I've only been a couple times as a spectator and both times I was impressed with the turn-out and the caliber of cars present.
I'd like to see a pic of your ride ;o) I take it you finally got that title fiasco sorted out?
Thanks for the kind words Tapioca, this project truly is a dream come true for me as well as the culmination of years of work and countless dollars. I'm just glad it's finally over, for a while at least ;-)
I'd like to see a pic of your ride ;o) I take it you finally got that title fiasco sorted out?
Thanks for the kind words Tapioca, this project truly is a dream come true for me as well as the culmination of years of work and countless dollars. I'm just glad it's finally over, for a while at least ;-)
A word to the wise about pulleys: Don't even think about running an underdrive pulley if your planning on running a high-amperage alternator. My 250 amp alternator which will not put out 14+ volts at idle with an under-driven harmonic balancer and alt overdrive pulley because it requires more electromagnetic current to be generated than does a lower amp unit. I just took Zach's advice and ordered an OEM harmonic balancer which should fix this problem by upping the Alt RPMs at idle.
I'll be selling my barely-used underdrive harmonic balancer if anyone is interested.
The last thing we are toying with is switching from the poly motor/trans mounts to the OEM units. We have only a couple centimeters of space between the intake elbow and hood and are currently unsure whether the more compliant OEM mounts are going to cause interference issues. In theory it seems that the OEM mounts only have about a half inch or so of play since the rubber is enclosed by a rigid metal casing. While this play is exaggerated by the height of the engine rotating around these pivot points, only a proportion of the engines rotation under throttle and braking translates into vertical movement at the TB. In theory the OEM mounts should allow the intake elbow to just barely clear the hood, but we'll ave to wait and see. I hope they do because there is supposedly a large difference in NVH and ride quality between the stockers and Prothane's.
Anyone care to chime in on their experiences with the OEM mounts?
I'll be selling my barely-used underdrive harmonic balancer if anyone is interested.
The last thing we are toying with is switching from the poly motor/trans mounts to the OEM units. We have only a couple centimeters of space between the intake elbow and hood and are currently unsure whether the more compliant OEM mounts are going to cause interference issues. In theory it seems that the OEM mounts only have about a half inch or so of play since the rubber is enclosed by a rigid metal casing. While this play is exaggerated by the height of the engine rotating around these pivot points, only a proportion of the engines rotation under throttle and braking translates into vertical movement at the TB. In theory the OEM mounts should allow the intake elbow to just barely clear the hood, but we'll ave to wait and see. I hope they do because there is supposedly a large difference in NVH and ride quality between the stockers and Prothane's.
Anyone care to chime in on their experiences with the OEM mounts?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
From: Sterling, VA
Damn Rob, that car is incredible!
Got to see it running for the first time tonight and I have to say, that is the most impressive RX7 I have ever seen. Everything is top quality and looks brand-new. And the engine sounds awesome with that exhaust. But most importantly, that thing is fast! I mean wheel spin in 3rd gear? Usable torque is the name of the game.
Great work Rob!
Got to see it running for the first time tonight and I have to say, that is the most impressive RX7 I have ever seen. Everything is top quality and looks brand-new. And the engine sounds awesome with that exhaust. But most importantly, that thing is fast! I mean wheel spin in 3rd gear? Usable torque is the name of the game.
Great work Rob!
Thanks for the kind words Joe ;o)
Hey I gave you a ring, but no luck getting you on the horn. I spent a few hours today troubleshooting the electrical issues on the car. I ended up crashing at a buddies place Friday and driving back the next day. About 7 miles from my house the car began to misfire heavily and at 5 miles the car flat-out died. I called triple A and 8 bucks later the car was sitting in her garage. I suspected this was the result of a bad ground at the battery.
Today my buddy Gerry and I removed the rear portion of the interior as well as the passenger seat to check the connections at the battery -and they tested fine. All connections were solid, but the battery was only putting out 8 volts after a 15 minute jump charge from my 4-Runner. We proceeded to pull the battery and had it confirmed bad at Advanced Auto. I bought a new 800 CCA Optima red top for about 167 dollars and now the car starts, but we only read battery voltage of around 12 volts, slowly declining, instead of the solid 14 volts that the alternator should be putting out (like it did when I tested it two days ago!?)
We pulled the brand spankin' new alternator which I will have tested once I find a local auto electric shop that is capable of rebuilding it. This is a built-to-order 250 amp unit that I ordered over the internet a couple years ago. The alt has an air tube on it's back end which I do not have hooked up to anything. I am beginning to wonder if the alt is perhaps overheating, or if there is another underlying issue causing the alt to go bad. I read at some point that it was necessary to install a resistor inline with the alt to prevent premature failure, but I will have to read up on this.
Right now the car starts, but misfires slightly because the coils are not getting enough juice to do their job presumably. I also suspect that the humid weather that we have been experiencing as of late is not meshing well with the current tune, which Zach did a great job on by the way. I've been going over the car with a fine-toothed comb and I can't tell you how impressed I am with the work that he did on the car. Highly recommended! and he is available to build someone a LS powered beast right now if anyone is interested....
I will update with my findings.
Hey I gave you a ring, but no luck getting you on the horn. I spent a few hours today troubleshooting the electrical issues on the car. I ended up crashing at a buddies place Friday and driving back the next day. About 7 miles from my house the car began to misfire heavily and at 5 miles the car flat-out died. I called triple A and 8 bucks later the car was sitting in her garage. I suspected this was the result of a bad ground at the battery.
Today my buddy Gerry and I removed the rear portion of the interior as well as the passenger seat to check the connections at the battery -and they tested fine. All connections were solid, but the battery was only putting out 8 volts after a 15 minute jump charge from my 4-Runner. We proceeded to pull the battery and had it confirmed bad at Advanced Auto. I bought a new 800 CCA Optima red top for about 167 dollars and now the car starts, but we only read battery voltage of around 12 volts, slowly declining, instead of the solid 14 volts that the alternator should be putting out (like it did when I tested it two days ago!?)
We pulled the brand spankin' new alternator which I will have tested once I find a local auto electric shop that is capable of rebuilding it. This is a built-to-order 250 amp unit that I ordered over the internet a couple years ago. The alt has an air tube on it's back end which I do not have hooked up to anything. I am beginning to wonder if the alt is perhaps overheating, or if there is another underlying issue causing the alt to go bad. I read at some point that it was necessary to install a resistor inline with the alt to prevent premature failure, but I will have to read up on this.
Right now the car starts, but misfires slightly because the coils are not getting enough juice to do their job presumably. I also suspect that the humid weather that we have been experiencing as of late is not meshing well with the current tune, which Zach did a great job on by the way. I've been going over the car with a fine-toothed comb and I can't tell you how impressed I am with the work that he did on the car. Highly recommended! and he is available to build someone a LS powered beast right now if anyone is interested....
I will update with my findings.
Rob,
You will not need a resistor with your PCM. Only the 98 year LS1 cars required the resistor to keep the exciter voltage between 9 and 12 volts.
Double check that the connector that goes into the top of the alternator from the wiring harness is making good connection. I had to repair the connector because the original pin was all smashed up.
You do not need to connect that air vent to anything. They all are open vents like that.
You will not need a resistor with your PCM. Only the 98 year LS1 cars required the resistor to keep the exciter voltage between 9 and 12 volts.
Double check that the connector that goes into the top of the alternator from the wiring harness is making good connection. I had to repair the connector because the original pin was all smashed up.
You do not need to connect that air vent to anything. They all are open vents like that.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
From: Sterling, VA
Well I ended up going fishing yesterday (Sunday). I was originally going Saturday but the wind was way too high. Sunday was perfect, I caught me a big *** striper!
Anyways, you've narrowed down the problem to being related to the alternator, certainly possible it's a bad connector. I've never run a high-output alternator like that so I don't know much about them. Is there a reason you need that?
Thanks for the input Zach and Joe, I went ahead and ordered a replacement connector for the alt from EFI Connection online (11 bucks). http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn..._pigtails.aspx
I am going to get this alt tested one more time just so that I am 100% certain that the unit is good. I will also swap the connector and clean the contacts with some alcohol and an acid brush.
While I'm at it I want to try to figure out how to eliminate the slight start hesitation that the car is currently experiencing by running a direct line from the the battery to the starter solenoid via a Ford Relay, using the ignition switch to simply engage the relay to engage the solenoid, which engages the starter. If the car still doesn't start right away with the Ford relay I will get a performance starter with gear reduction.
I am going to get this alt tested one more time just so that I am 100% certain that the unit is good. I will also swap the connector and clean the contacts with some alcohol and an acid brush.
While I'm at it I want to try to figure out how to eliminate the slight start hesitation that the car is currently experiencing by running a direct line from the the battery to the starter solenoid via a Ford Relay, using the ignition switch to simply engage the relay to engage the solenoid, which engages the starter. If the car still doesn't start right away with the Ford relay I will get a performance starter with gear reduction.
I might have to head out there with you one of these days, its been too long since I've gone on any noteworthy fishing outings.
Is there a reason you need that?
alternator update: I have the unit tested at a local auto electric shop and they confirmed that the alternator rotor was fried (causing the insulating laminate to break down) as a result of the dead battery. I went online and ordered a replacement unit powdercoated black for about $300 shipped from powerbastards.com.
lessons learned through talking to experts in this field:
1) do not store your battery on concrete as it will discharge and permanently ruin your battery.
2) A dead battery will cause your alternator to work too hard and fry itself to death.
3) The Camaro alt is a Delco CS-130D, small case alternator which is very sensitive to heat.
4) You should run a minimum of 4 gauge wire between your alt, chassis, engine and batt to ensure that your alternator does not have to work too hard.
5) Improper powedercoating of the alt casing can cover crucial ground points, the lack of which will case your alternator to fry.
6) A stock LS1 alt only makes about 50 amps at idle, a 220 amp unit makes about 110 amps at idle and 220 at 1200 RPM.
7) underdrive pulleys do nothing but hurt alternator performance and should be avoided. Here's some info on the subject from Powerbastards:
lessons learned through talking to experts in this field:
1) do not store your battery on concrete as it will discharge and permanently ruin your battery.
2) A dead battery will cause your alternator to work too hard and fry itself to death.
3) The Camaro alt is a Delco CS-130D, small case alternator which is very sensitive to heat.
4) You should run a minimum of 4 gauge wire between your alt, chassis, engine and batt to ensure that your alternator does not have to work too hard.
5) Improper powedercoating of the alt casing can cover crucial ground points, the lack of which will case your alternator to fry.
6) A stock LS1 alt only makes about 50 amps at idle, a 220 amp unit makes about 110 amps at idle and 220 at 1200 RPM.
7) underdrive pulleys do nothing but hurt alternator performance and should be avoided. Here's some info on the subject from Powerbastards:
"The Truth About The Underdrive Crank Pulley
INSTALLING AN UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY WILL DECREASE YOUR ALTERNATOR OUTPUT.
The underdrive crank pulley dates back many years when hot-rodder's were squeezing every last horsepower out of their rides. The underdrive crank pulley is any form of pulley smaller in diameter than the one originally supplied by the factory. Back in the day cars were carbureted, had mechanical fuel pumps and definitely did not have an electric cooling fan. Installing an underdrive crank pulley in one of these older vehicles probably saved a few horsepower by slowing down the accessories like the water pump, air conditioning compressor, power steering and alternator, which was more than adequate to begin with. Older vehicles sometimes came with an alternator that only produced 30amps! Slowing one of those units down with an underdrive crank pulley really didn't matter as the vehicle contained few electronics that would notice the drop in alternator output.
Today's vehicles are packed with essential equipment that can draw large amounts of power.
* Electric Fans - 50-60amps initial start up, 20 -40amps continuous load
* Electric Fuel Pumps
* Electronic Fuel Injection to include ECM's, ECU's, Fuel Injectors
* Audio/Video/Stereo/Navigation Systems
* HID Head Lights
* Factory Installed or Aftermarket Power Inverters
* Heaters, Air Conditioning, Blowers, Rear Units
* Rear Window Defrosters - some can suck ~25amps continuously!
Most OEM crank pulleys are 6" in diameter while most OEM alternator pulleys are 2". This gives us a 3:1 ratio between the crank speed and the alternator speed, something those silly automotive engineers came up with. At an 800rpm engine idle speed the alternator is actually spinning to the tune of 2400rpm. It's very important to maintain the 3:1 ratio or else the alternator can't do it's job, especially a high amp unit that needs every last rpm to operate effectively.
We've searched the web and have seen wild claims of 10%-15% power gains, better fuel economy and some underdrive pulleys will even make your hair grow back (ok, just kidding about that last part). What is even more amazing than these claims are the prices of one of these pulleys. There are plenty of people eager to spend up to $400 on these devices that only hurt your vehicles performance.
How can an underdrive pulley actually hurt horsepower?
It's pretty simple. For today's vehicles to run at optimum performance a lot of things need to happen, correctly. There are two very important parts of the rpm range when talking about alternator output. Idle and WOT (wide open throttle). If you didn't notice there is no longer a carburetor or distributor on almost any vehicle even 10 years old. What controls your vehicles fuel delivery and timing then? It's called an ECM (or ECU for the import guys!) and it's voltage dependant. You see the cars today are so smart that if your electrical system isn't healthy the computer will simply retard ignition timing or alter fuel delivery at WOT to compensate for low voltage, saving a costly engine disaster. The computer knows that if your vehicles voltage is lower than expected the fuel pump will be delivering less fuel, the injectors will open and close slower and some adjustments will be made to guard against engine damage. Install an underdrive pulley and you may end up underpowered.
If you couldn't tell by now, we don't like underdrive crank pulleys. Since we are in the business of increasing alternator output these have been a thorn in our side for quite sometime. Any time a customer has reported low alternator output on one of our units it was because of an underdrive crank pulley, insufficient battery cable size or cheap battery. More articles on the other two culprits coming soon.
We can't compete with the hundreds of thousands of dollars put into marketing products that you just don't need for your car, but we hope you've at least heard the other side of the story."
INSTALLING AN UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY WILL DECREASE YOUR ALTERNATOR OUTPUT.
The underdrive crank pulley dates back many years when hot-rodder's were squeezing every last horsepower out of their rides. The underdrive crank pulley is any form of pulley smaller in diameter than the one originally supplied by the factory. Back in the day cars were carbureted, had mechanical fuel pumps and definitely did not have an electric cooling fan. Installing an underdrive crank pulley in one of these older vehicles probably saved a few horsepower by slowing down the accessories like the water pump, air conditioning compressor, power steering and alternator, which was more than adequate to begin with. Older vehicles sometimes came with an alternator that only produced 30amps! Slowing one of those units down with an underdrive crank pulley really didn't matter as the vehicle contained few electronics that would notice the drop in alternator output.
Today's vehicles are packed with essential equipment that can draw large amounts of power.
* Electric Fans - 50-60amps initial start up, 20 -40amps continuous load
* Electric Fuel Pumps
* Electronic Fuel Injection to include ECM's, ECU's, Fuel Injectors
* Audio/Video/Stereo/Navigation Systems
* HID Head Lights
* Factory Installed or Aftermarket Power Inverters
* Heaters, Air Conditioning, Blowers, Rear Units
* Rear Window Defrosters - some can suck ~25amps continuously!
Most OEM crank pulleys are 6" in diameter while most OEM alternator pulleys are 2". This gives us a 3:1 ratio between the crank speed and the alternator speed, something those silly automotive engineers came up with. At an 800rpm engine idle speed the alternator is actually spinning to the tune of 2400rpm. It's very important to maintain the 3:1 ratio or else the alternator can't do it's job, especially a high amp unit that needs every last rpm to operate effectively.
We've searched the web and have seen wild claims of 10%-15% power gains, better fuel economy and some underdrive pulleys will even make your hair grow back (ok, just kidding about that last part). What is even more amazing than these claims are the prices of one of these pulleys. There are plenty of people eager to spend up to $400 on these devices that only hurt your vehicles performance.
How can an underdrive pulley actually hurt horsepower?
It's pretty simple. For today's vehicles to run at optimum performance a lot of things need to happen, correctly. There are two very important parts of the rpm range when talking about alternator output. Idle and WOT (wide open throttle). If you didn't notice there is no longer a carburetor or distributor on almost any vehicle even 10 years old. What controls your vehicles fuel delivery and timing then? It's called an ECM (or ECU for the import guys!) and it's voltage dependant. You see the cars today are so smart that if your electrical system isn't healthy the computer will simply retard ignition timing or alter fuel delivery at WOT to compensate for low voltage, saving a costly engine disaster. The computer knows that if your vehicles voltage is lower than expected the fuel pump will be delivering less fuel, the injectors will open and close slower and some adjustments will be made to guard against engine damage. Install an underdrive pulley and you may end up underpowered.
If you couldn't tell by now, we don't like underdrive crank pulleys. Since we are in the business of increasing alternator output these have been a thorn in our side for quite sometime. Any time a customer has reported low alternator output on one of our units it was because of an underdrive crank pulley, insufficient battery cable size or cheap battery. More articles on the other two culprits coming soon.
We can't compete with the hundreds of thousands of dollars put into marketing products that you just don't need for your car, but we hope you've at least heard the other side of the story."
Hey Rob,
Both of your engine grounds are 4-gauge. One on each side, so you are good there. It probably did not help driving the car with the underdrive pulleys on. I am sure that it strained the bat. and the alt.
You may have a check engine light due to the low voltage. If it is from a bad coil, it will tell you exactly which coil(s) are misfiring when you pull the code. Let's see what happens when the bat. and alt. are replaced.
Both of your engine grounds are 4-gauge. One on each side, so you are good there. It probably did not help driving the car with the underdrive pulleys on. I am sure that it strained the bat. and the alt.
You may have a check engine light due to the low voltage. If it is from a bad coil, it will tell you exactly which coil(s) are misfiring when you pull the code. Let's see what happens when the bat. and alt. are replaced.
Thanks^ ;o)
Well the new alt and battery did the trick and the car is now back to "bat out of hell" status. I took a girl out on a date yesterday and she seemed satisfied with her chariot for the evening.
The following is a punch list of small things I need to fix; I will update once I fix these problems as I go so that this info is available to anyone who should need to follow the same path.
1) Rework exhaust for better clearance and flow and add mounts to catalytic converter
2) Install A/C (I think Zach has the procedure figured out and he has offered to do both of our cars at the same time for a nominal fee). You're the man Zach.
3) Replace air filter with larger unit, the filter that I am currently running is not delivering enough 02 for the engine to run at 100%.
4) drain, inspect and replace oil.
5) Create some type of water guard or air box so that I don't ruin the air filter and get water into the engine every time I get caught in the rain.
6) Install OEM transmission mount to replace the excessively stiff polyurethane unit that is currently on the car.
7) Fabricate custom low-profile intake elbow to solve current clearance issues
8) Fabricate fiberglass ducts and purchase hoses to feed NTech front brake ducts. I plan to use black chicken wire to filter debris and create some sort of shut-off lids so that I can cap the hoses off when desired.
9) Troubleshoot weak windshield wiper motor. Currently the wipers struggle to move across the windshield at a snail's pace. This could be a bad connection, a weak motor, or a mechanical issue involving the arm mechanisms.
10) Install sound deadening material in trunk. I think I will use the material that David Hayes recommended as it is much lighter and more effective than Dynomat.
11) Install sound/heat shield over transmission
12) pay body man to tweak panel gaps
13) swap out aluminum flywheel for a slightly heavier and more streetable unit. The car revs like crazy, but is a PIA to drive in stop-and-go conditions.
14) resolve starting issue. Currently the car does not have a problem starting if it has been sitting for a while, but struggles to turn over is you try to start the engine after just a few minutes of cool down. I'm assuming this is because allowing the car to sit allows enough time for the cylinders to depressurize via the ring gaps, and the starter either is getting enough juice, or doesn't have enough *** to turn the engine over the way it should. I went over the wiring and noticed that the way I wired the bay, my battery is currently feeding my starter and alt (the starter is daisy chained off the alt) via the main 120 amp fuse which I think is choking my electron flow slightly. I am going to run a direct starter feed to the same side of the fuse block that the battery + wire hooks up to and leave the alternator hooked up after the 120 amp main fuse to match Mazda's stock setup. If this does not fix the problem entirely I will try the Ford relay to strengthen the trigger signal. If it still doesn't start up immediately at this point I will look at get a better starter.
Well the new alt and battery did the trick and the car is now back to "bat out of hell" status. I took a girl out on a date yesterday and she seemed satisfied with her chariot for the evening.
The following is a punch list of small things I need to fix; I will update once I fix these problems as I go so that this info is available to anyone who should need to follow the same path.
1) Rework exhaust for better clearance and flow and add mounts to catalytic converter
2) Install A/C (I think Zach has the procedure figured out and he has offered to do both of our cars at the same time for a nominal fee). You're the man Zach.
3) Replace air filter with larger unit, the filter that I am currently running is not delivering enough 02 for the engine to run at 100%.
4) drain, inspect and replace oil.
5) Create some type of water guard or air box so that I don't ruin the air filter and get water into the engine every time I get caught in the rain.
6) Install OEM transmission mount to replace the excessively stiff polyurethane unit that is currently on the car.
7) Fabricate custom low-profile intake elbow to solve current clearance issues
8) Fabricate fiberglass ducts and purchase hoses to feed NTech front brake ducts. I plan to use black chicken wire to filter debris and create some sort of shut-off lids so that I can cap the hoses off when desired.
9) Troubleshoot weak windshield wiper motor. Currently the wipers struggle to move across the windshield at a snail's pace. This could be a bad connection, a weak motor, or a mechanical issue involving the arm mechanisms.
10) Install sound deadening material in trunk. I think I will use the material that David Hayes recommended as it is much lighter and more effective than Dynomat.
11) Install sound/heat shield over transmission
12) pay body man to tweak panel gaps
13) swap out aluminum flywheel for a slightly heavier and more streetable unit. The car revs like crazy, but is a PIA to drive in stop-and-go conditions.
14) resolve starting issue. Currently the car does not have a problem starting if it has been sitting for a while, but struggles to turn over is you try to start the engine after just a few minutes of cool down. I'm assuming this is because allowing the car to sit allows enough time for the cylinders to depressurize via the ring gaps, and the starter either is getting enough juice, or doesn't have enough *** to turn the engine over the way it should. I went over the wiring and noticed that the way I wired the bay, my battery is currently feeding my starter and alt (the starter is daisy chained off the alt) via the main 120 amp fuse which I think is choking my electron flow slightly. I am going to run a direct starter feed to the same side of the fuse block that the battery + wire hooks up to and leave the alternator hooked up after the 120 amp main fuse to match Mazda's stock setup. If this does not fix the problem entirely I will try the Ford relay to strengthen the trigger signal. If it still doesn't start up immediately at this point I will look at get a better starter.
Last edited by wanklin; Jun 18, 2008 at 09:24 PM.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
From: 15143
I'm looking to buy one. which brand do you have? for ls2 or ls1?
My wipers are very slow too. If I'm driving fast, my drivers side wiper goes past the edge of the windshield and causes both of the wipers to stick up. Let me know how you fix.
I'm looking to buy one. which brand do you have? for ls2 or ls1?
my opinion on the crank pulley was that the 25% underdriven one that i had wasn't spinning the water pump fast enough to adequately cool. If i would raise RPM's at idle to like 1500, the temps would come down. it worked fine with the stock water pump, but when i upgraded to the evans high flo water pump, that is when this issue appeared.
i haven't touched the wipers since i've owned the car in 3+ years but i will look into what you are saying. thanks!
The clutch setup i'm thinking of getting is the LS7 clutch and pressure plate with the LS2 alum flywheel from fidanza. That will mount up to my LS1.
i haven't touched the wipers since i've owned the car in 3+ years but i will look into what you are saying. thanks!
The clutch setup i'm thinking of getting is the LS7 clutch and pressure plate with the LS2 alum flywheel from fidanza. That will mount up to my LS1.
Your starting issue may be due to header exhaust heatsoak. Several others have experienced the same problem and have traced it to the starter solinoid. Do you have a heat sheild?
Thanks for the input. I'm using a ceramic coated set of stock exhaust manifolds off a 2002 Camaro, without a heat shield. Would you happen to have good link for me to do some reading up on this?
my opinion on the crank pulley was that the 25% underdriven one that i had wasn't spinning the water pump fast enough to adequately cool. If i would raise RPM's at idle to like 1500, the temps would come down. it worked fine with the stock water pump, but when i upgraded to the evans high flo water pump, that is when this issue appeared.
i haven't touched the wipers since i've owned the car in 3+ years but i will look into what you are saying. thanks!
The clutch setup i'm thinking of getting is the LS7 clutch and pressure plate with the LS2 alum flywheel from fidanza. That will mount up to my LS1.
i haven't touched the wipers since i've owned the car in 3+ years but i will look into what you are saying. thanks!
The clutch setup i'm thinking of getting is the LS7 clutch and pressure plate with the LS2 alum flywheel from fidanza. That will mount up to my LS1.
The LS7 clutch and PP are supposed to be smooth as butter from what I read on LS1Tech. Good choice. I think I'm going to ride out the aluminum flywheel a bit longer and see if the chattering gets better. You are going to love the quick throttle response and rev matching with the aluminum flywheel, as long as you can keep from burning up the clutch around town.
