Tomorrow is the big day ;o)
#301
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iTrader: (83)
Im so glad this thread got bumped. Im in the process of repainting my 7 as well. Im deciding between TGM, BB or kaiser silver (stole this one from another member of the forum). I always thought TGM was a sacred color but screw that. The car looks hot. If anyone else can recommend any other cool colors let me know (sorry to derail thread).
#302
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (6)
I must say I love the work you've done on your car. It's very tasteful, looks OEM, and is a bat our of hell. Very nice job.
And yes, the Quiet Coat will work well for you in the trunk area. Make sure to use three coats and let each coat dry before applying the next coat. I used halogen lamps so speed up the process. FYI - the most bang for the buck comes from removing your door panels and spraying the inside metal skins. Not only is sound dramatically reduced but the doors will shut with a satisfying thud instead of the RX7 "ping".
And yes, the Quiet Coat will work well for you in the trunk area. Make sure to use three coats and let each coat dry before applying the next coat. I used halogen lamps so speed up the process. FYI - the most bang for the buck comes from removing your door panels and spraying the inside metal skins. Not only is sound dramatically reduced but the doors will shut with a satisfying thud instead of the RX7 "ping".
#303
Im so glad this thread got bumped. Im in the process of repainting my 7 as well. Im deciding between TGM, BB or kaiser silver (stole this one from another member of the forum). I always thought TGM was a sacred color but screw that. The car looks hot. If anyone else can recommend any other cool colors let me know (sorry to derail thread).
I must say I love the work you've done on your car. It's very tasteful, looks OEM, and is a bat our of hell. Very nice job.
Thanks again for the sound dampening info. The front compartment is pretty thoroughly covered, but I will be applying some deadening to the back to lessen the amount of exhaust sound pulsing through the trunk.
I also found a neat starter heat blanket that I will be trying out shortly.
#304
Update:
So after a pump in the military and 4yrs of college I finally finished my degree and now have time to spend with my baby. I have about 1100 miles on the car so far.
punch list updates:
Fixed the wipers - Ordered a low mileage front wiper motor from Fritz and installed it. This was a little trickier than expected so I thought I would share a note. To remove the motor you will want to turn off the car, unplug the motor connector, and remove the airbag sensor harness bracket with a 10mm socket to clear space for your ratchet. Remove the 4 bolts holding the motor to the firewall (the bottom left one is a little tough to reach; you'll need a 1-inch extension and normal socket). Once the bolts are loose, you will notice that the assembly does not seem to want to come off of the firewall because it is anchored to the windshield wiper linkage behind the fire wall.
In order to get the motor out you will need to manually push/pull the wiper arms until you see the small linkage tab, attached to the back of the motor with a nut, become aligned with access hole behind the wiper motor. Now pull the tab out and move the wipers some more to achieve the desired clearance. First mark the output shaft of the wiper motor in relation to the tab (not needed if installing new motor), then use a wrench to remove the splined motor output from the linkage. Notice that it matters how the motor is aligned with the linkage; the linkage should be pointing at 9 o'clock at rest position (straight left). You are going to need to eye-ball the alignment upon installation in plane with the bolts since you will not be able to attach the motor in its mounted orientation. If you botch the angle you will notice that the wipers start and stop at an inclined position rather than full bottom.
^not rocket science, but hopefully this helps someone
I am now tackling my starting problem. I purchased the following gear-reduced starter which should deliver 40% more ***, and I will be reworking the wiring by wiring the starter in before the terminal block (as I should have done before) and improving the way that the battery is grounded to the chassis.
http://www.s10v8.com/store/product_i...products_id/63
I still think the aluminum flywheel is a PIA, so I will soon be in the market for something a little more streetable.
So after a pump in the military and 4yrs of college I finally finished my degree and now have time to spend with my baby. I have about 1100 miles on the car so far.
punch list updates:
Fixed the wipers - Ordered a low mileage front wiper motor from Fritz and installed it. This was a little trickier than expected so I thought I would share a note. To remove the motor you will want to turn off the car, unplug the motor connector, and remove the airbag sensor harness bracket with a 10mm socket to clear space for your ratchet. Remove the 4 bolts holding the motor to the firewall (the bottom left one is a little tough to reach; you'll need a 1-inch extension and normal socket). Once the bolts are loose, you will notice that the assembly does not seem to want to come off of the firewall because it is anchored to the windshield wiper linkage behind the fire wall.
In order to get the motor out you will need to manually push/pull the wiper arms until you see the small linkage tab, attached to the back of the motor with a nut, become aligned with access hole behind the wiper motor. Now pull the tab out and move the wipers some more to achieve the desired clearance. First mark the output shaft of the wiper motor in relation to the tab (not needed if installing new motor), then use a wrench to remove the splined motor output from the linkage. Notice that it matters how the motor is aligned with the linkage; the linkage should be pointing at 9 o'clock at rest position (straight left). You are going to need to eye-ball the alignment upon installation in plane with the bolts since you will not be able to attach the motor in its mounted orientation. If you botch the angle you will notice that the wipers start and stop at an inclined position rather than full bottom.
^not rocket science, but hopefully this helps someone
I am now tackling my starting problem. I purchased the following gear-reduced starter which should deliver 40% more ***, and I will be reworking the wiring by wiring the starter in before the terminal block (as I should have done before) and improving the way that the battery is grounded to the chassis.
http://www.s10v8.com/store/product_i...products_id/63
I still think the aluminum flywheel is a PIA, so I will soon be in the market for something a little more streetable.
#305
Running Log Updates:
WIRING
Rewired main grounds and power with 2-gauge wire. Resulted in vast improvement in initial starting, crisper ignition and exhaust tone, more torque, and better overall vehicle electronics operation; however, the starter solenoid is still having a heat soak issue.
STARTER
I was planning to swap in the new truck starter, but hit a road block when I learned that the truck starter uses two long bolts instead of the one long bolt and one short bolt used on the F-body starter. I went ahead and bought the bolt through a GM dealership, as well as an OEM starter solenoid heat shield, and will install the starter next time I get under the engine bay.
COILS
While the wiring made a noticeable difference, I still noticed a gradually worsening misfiring problem and decided that it had to be the fancy red MSD coils crapping out (this seems to be a common theme for folks who use these coils). After a fair amount of research I decided to go with a set of D585 coils off of a late-model Escalade. These coils have been known to make 10HP over LS2 coils on a dyno and are extremely durable, and even have external heat sinks. The difference in torque and idle quality that resulted from using the coils is remarkable!
REAR END
I have decided to swap my built OEM rear for a 8.8" setup so that I can get the gears that I want. Right now I am leaning toward the Torsen T2r differential which will get back into viscous torque-sensing realm. My final decision will be based on the HP capacity figures.
I have started a WTT thread for anyone interested in acquiring my built rear setup:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/my-built-oem-rear-end-your-sanberg-8-8-conversion-858373/
TRANSMISSION MOUNT
I ended up swapping back to an OEM F-body mount (required a little grinding) and the cabin is much smoother now. I highly recommend staying with OEM engine and trans mounts as they make a world of difference in terms of NVH
Here's a picture of the PFS girdle for those who haven't seen it:
EVAP
I have acquired a lot of the necessary parts (GM charcoal canister, purge solenoid and vent solenoid) and am formulating a plan of action.
STEERING
I Have decided to go back to power steering to make the car more enjoyable to drive. I will be selling or trading my Maval rack in the near future.
A special thanks to Jow Z for his help with the wiring and trans mount!
That's all for now!
WIRING
Rewired main grounds and power with 2-gauge wire. Resulted in vast improvement in initial starting, crisper ignition and exhaust tone, more torque, and better overall vehicle electronics operation; however, the starter solenoid is still having a heat soak issue.
STARTER
I was planning to swap in the new truck starter, but hit a road block when I learned that the truck starter uses two long bolts instead of the one long bolt and one short bolt used on the F-body starter. I went ahead and bought the bolt through a GM dealership, as well as an OEM starter solenoid heat shield, and will install the starter next time I get under the engine bay.
COILS
While the wiring made a noticeable difference, I still noticed a gradually worsening misfiring problem and decided that it had to be the fancy red MSD coils crapping out (this seems to be a common theme for folks who use these coils). After a fair amount of research I decided to go with a set of D585 coils off of a late-model Escalade. These coils have been known to make 10HP over LS2 coils on a dyno and are extremely durable, and even have external heat sinks. The difference in torque and idle quality that resulted from using the coils is remarkable!
REAR END
I have decided to swap my built OEM rear for a 8.8" setup so that I can get the gears that I want. Right now I am leaning toward the Torsen T2r differential which will get back into viscous torque-sensing realm. My final decision will be based on the HP capacity figures.
I have started a WTT thread for anyone interested in acquiring my built rear setup:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/my-built-oem-rear-end-your-sanberg-8-8-conversion-858373/
TRANSMISSION MOUNT
I ended up swapping back to an OEM F-body mount (required a little grinding) and the cabin is much smoother now. I highly recommend staying with OEM engine and trans mounts as they make a world of difference in terms of NVH
Here's a picture of the PFS girdle for those who haven't seen it:
EVAP
I have acquired a lot of the necessary parts (GM charcoal canister, purge solenoid and vent solenoid) and am formulating a plan of action.
STEERING
I Have decided to go back to power steering to make the car more enjoyable to drive. I will be selling or trading my Maval rack in the near future.
A special thanks to Jow Z for his help with the wiring and trans mount!
That's all for now!
#311
I am trying to iron out this car so that I can take it to VIR. Still lots of money and work to put in to make that happen ... . Will definitely keep you in the loop when that time comes around.
#313
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (83)
Wow I totally forgot about this thread...
My car is still in the shop . Its been there since december hahaha. Besides the paint, it has a bunch of other stuff being done to it. Apparently its just been painted and the shop guy is really impressed with how the color turned out. Im waiting on pics right now.
Wanklin thats an awesome pic...
My car is still in the shop . Its been there since december hahaha. Besides the paint, it has a bunch of other stuff being done to it. Apparently its just been painted and the shop guy is really impressed with how the color turned out. Im waiting on pics right now.
Wanklin thats an awesome pic...
#317
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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09-16-18 07:16 PM
Sniper_X
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
3
09-09-15 09:10 AM
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